Driver side heater vents blow cold air?

So, I hear changing but there is another aviator controlling the passenger side right next to the one in question

So, I think there is either an alignment issue or the cam I stalled onto is broken or something. My coolant is clear full etc. I even flushed the heater core very well which I’m getting good hear on the passenger side.

Now one thing I’m currently working on finding the answer is the electrical connector for thus actuator, so I noticed it appears a pin in the connector is missing. So, 3 pins across top 3 across bottom so 1 and 3 are in place on top bottom rows 4, 5 and 6 are in place. Is there supposed to be 5 or 6 pins.

Okay, I’m glad you sent that because I was thinking it was a wiring issue since pin 5 looked like it was missing a connection.

I attached this humming noise I’m hearing. I have no idea if this is related. It sounds like electrical humming

Is it possible that the cam and the actuator aren’t aligned up or something?

Okay, I’ve been searching for a real color image of the cam that they install onto and one thing I quickly noticed is that I actually screwed in a flange head screw in the picture with the sea circled why a screw well the original bolts I actually dropped them down somewhere Ava couldn’t locate them. I looked up the specs for bolts it showed M5x18mm if I recall so I have a bunch of little screws so I went with something same size if anything it would be smaller not larger but I definitely screwed in a screw here it’s not like I felt like I was forcing it in though.

No, it went more under the gear shift casing it fell off the magnet that I was pulling it out with when wiring was in the way.

How difficult is it to remove the cam the actuators are attached to?

Is there anything down from the front facing vents that I couldn’t knock loose when I was running a soft brush down there cleaning the vents that. Couldn’t undone or something.

What is this rubber plug connected to? I believe it is a resistor. Is this a temperature sensor or something plugged into the box or something? I ask because I was changing the setting laying down there and I noticed the air I was feeling was not coming from the floor vent it was blowing out this plug that I pulled back into place. So, what I noticed by fixing that the blower pretty sure pushes a lot harder out the vents at least. So, I also noticed switching to defrost to md at least my idle dropped but it still switched over fine but then you hit A/C blows fine cold air, but you hear it switching when I roll the dial over to heat, but you don’t ever feel it close up that flap thou. So, I want to make sure you know which one I’m working on in the event I called it the wrong name. I circled you T in yellow.

Joe,

Do you have the directions to replace the cam that the actuators attach to? I still have no heat after even going to Ford to buy an OEM part instead of aftermarket.

I honestly don’t know which way to turn it. I'm scared it’s stripped somehow or somehow simply not connected on the backside with whatever moves on that side.

I have the part number GV6Z19788A in case you search that part number to see if something pulls ups. I’m just concerned about once you unbolt it how far does it need to be able to pull it off or is it just going to slide down, I really don’t want to remove the steering column which sweat I’d need to remove if it needs say 6” of space to pull it off.

The whole pigtail is dead I couldn’t get anything with a test light with he key off or on or with the heater setting on either. I did replace F71 fuse (7.5) still nothing. I have no idea where to start from here.

Do you think there’s a chance this could be my problem with the no heat on the drivers side?

I just know it’s the cabin temperature sensor and I was reading elsewhere functions that a faulty or failing one could produce and it mentioned mode function and irregular temperature being produced out.

Honestly, I took it off in the middle of working on this issue previously and noticed it was full of dust heavily and questioned then if it even worked. Now there is something else I’m learning. I’m fairly certain my car was in the hurricane in Florida that last one that hit. Well, I’ll say my car that I bought Jan 2023 has to have been flooded why? My carpets to this day I’m still power blowing beach sand out. So that’s partly why I was messing with the vents earlier running feather duster or small brushes all the way down simply because it had stuff all in it all the way down. Honestly, I shouldn’t have bought the car, but it was in the midst of no inventory post covid my 2011-Ford Escape finally crapped out entirely at 495,000 miles (yep you read that right) original transmission and engine now everything else I had replaced over time. But I always did the work, and I constantly changed the oil and every 30,000 miles I drained 1/2 the ATF out. It ran great honestly. I just ran into the fact that nearly every bolt hole needed rethreaded entirely. So, I have Parkinson, but I don’t allow it to stop me. I’m not in 40. But can I drive something in straight I’ll say yes but I have learned heck no I can’t. So, I was always breaking them or stripping them. So, my compressor that last drive completely fell out cause the copper strands I had wrapped around the bolt had loosened up so much so when I lost it there went the belt and dbsppped the A/C lines as it was dragging under the car and bust the radiator from the condenser forcedly slamming into it. I just had the wrecker take it straight to the junk yard, but I got every penny of my 34k I paid for it brand new thou. So, I was heck bent on buying the same SUV again 2.5l mainly which I did but after spending months finding one without a car, I bought the next one the ford dealership found. They swear it wasn’t flooded. I said why do you have a brand-new intake manifold why does everything under the hood still have visible Barcode stickers on everything.