1999 Dodge Durango Rear Brake locking

Tiny
DEGE
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 DODGE DURANGO
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
This vehicle would not pass NJ saftey inspection due to rear brake lock-up. Right side locks more than left. Brought it to dealer and after having front brakes/rotors replaced, emergency brake cables, rear hardware kit installed (they thought it may be self-adjusting) same situation exists. Brakes were adjusted several times by dealer. They claim they cannot make it lock up and do not have the same skid machine used at the state inspection facility to know if it will fail again. Any idea? Thank you.
Monday, August 10th, 2009 AT 11:57 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
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Interesting approach by the dealer.

How do you describe the lock up when it happens to you?

Is it just the right rear locking up? Not front.

What kind of shoes were last put on.I assume they are shoes on yours.

A collapsed brake hose may act as a check valve by not allowing fluid to return. You can pump the brakes up good and solid several times and you'll feel drag in the brakes, then open the bleeders to see if the drag goes away, then pump them up again and open the line at the inlet of the brake hose, if its plugged the brake will remain dragging.
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Monday, August 10th, 2009 AT 7:21 PM
Tiny
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Lock up is only in rear at slow speed

I did not install the shoes but assume they are ok as dealer checked them and also checked the hoses/hardware- I'm not sure that brake hose is collapsed
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Friday, August 21st, 2009 AT 12:27 PM
Tiny
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I did a little research on the rear lock up. It seems that chysler ended up changing the friction compund of the linings to allieviate this symptom. I would try new shoes and make sure it it the upgraded one (oem).

IF you just have rear whel abs, try disconnecting then reconnecting the ABS solenoid plug (valve near the master). Leave it unplugged for a bit before pluging it back in.
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Saturday, August 22nd, 2009 AT 7:08 AM
Tiny
CON_FUSE9
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I have the same issue. And it is a serious safety issue especially in the snow - you cannot stop smoothly.

I have completely re-done the front brakes. New rotors, pads etc. Run-out is <.002". Completely bleed/flushed the brakes (I have a pressure bleeder).

Last night I noticed and verified the issue is worse when the rear brake shoes are out of adjustment. Basically I get a long pedal with a sudden jolt. If I adjust the brakes it is much more progressive stop. Now that I think about it perhaps that is why after a long trip (like a 4 hr drive to the beach in stop and go traffic) the harsh braking seems to be worse. I'm using Performance Friction pads on the front and they tend to be soft when cold. Add that to a rear that tends to be harsh and you have a making for brake problem.

I'm going to measure the run-out on my rear axle (on the flange) and then install new brake drums (unless I can figure out how to measure the roundness of the current brake drums.)

BTW, my rear brakes and shoes look perfect - in fact maybe look too good. Have your dealer check the run-out on the drums and check the drum for roundness.

Just an FYI, Stainless Steel Brakes makes a disk brake conversion kit. If you search the web I think you can find if for $600. Make this whole problem go away. (And get a new, different set of problems :) )

The next question that I have no idea about is: How did it get this way?
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Wednesday, September 9th, 2009 AT 2:37 PM

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