Intermittent shuts off just after started

Tiny
MARSDEN4
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 CHEVROLET TAHOE
2002 Chevy Tahoe V8 Two Wheel Drive Automatic

Recently our Tahoe went started shutting off after it started. It happened only every now and again. Now it is happening quite often, even when you start to drive. Once it is going it seems fine. But now it is getting to harder and harder to get it going. We have checked all of the fuses. Do you have any idea what this could be?
Saturday, October 25th, 2008 AT 1:42 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
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First thing you need to check is when you start it and it stalls, leave the key in the run postion and see if the theft light or security light is flashing, if it is then this would indicate a anti theft problem.
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Sunday, October 26th, 2008 AT 7:20 AM
Tiny
MARSDEN4
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No, but the battery light comes on. The Battery and Alternator seem to be fine though. If we hit the gas, it will keep going, but if you don't it dies.
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Sunday, October 26th, 2008 AT 1:06 PM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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Sosunds like its possible that the idle air control valve is not working, thats why it will keep running when you press on gas. This is a real tough one to try to help with due to not witnessing condition. If you can get the truck to autozone they can scan the computer and get us the trouble codes if there is one. They scan them for free.
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Sunday, October 26th, 2008 AT 4:01 PM
Tiny
MARSDEN4
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The check engine light does not come on, so Auotzone said they can't see what is wrong. Can we somehow check it on our own?
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Sunday, October 26th, 2008 AT 4:30 PM
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
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No, not unless you have a scan tool as we will need to attempt to communicate with the module in order to try and find out if there is an issue. Basically if the check engine light never comes on when you start the vehicle then that normally means the PCM has failed. So if they scanned it and it had no codes then that is different then if they could not communicate with it.

I suspect they were not able to communicate with it so if that is the case then the PCM is most likely going to be the issue.
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Sunday, October 26th, 2008 AT 6:29 PM
Tiny
COLTON FINNIGAN
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I have the same problem with my 2000 Tahoe. I have had my check on a snap on and nothing is being thrown. I changed fuel pump fuel filter Mass air flow coil packs spark plugs and trottle body sensor. Cleaned my trottle body. Cleaned my idle controle sensor. Checked fuel pressure. My truck runs fine if I'm on the gas. But if I let off sometimes it dies and some time it's dies while idleing at home.. Sometimes it don't wanna start back up sometimes it will start right up. I had my ecu checked. Someone said it was my tcc locking up in my converter and causing to to stall out.
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Thursday, March 5th, 2020 AT 10:19 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Does your snap on tool monitor live data? Hopefully it does so we can monitor the throttle position sensor when this is happening. I understand it appears you replaced it when you say throttle body sensor. Also when you cleaned the IAC we need to probably replace this depending on what we find.

A torque converter can cause the vehicle to stall when coming to a stop but not when it is just idling. Think of this as a manual transmission and when you come to a stop with it in gear and you don't push the clutch. As long as the vehicle is still moving it keeps running. It is when you finally come to a stop or just before it that the engine stalls. A TC staying on is the exact same idea.

Let's start with monitoring live data if possible and go from there. If we can't then we will try to do some basic testing but since you mentioned the scan tool, this will be the easiest way.

Feel free to get a video of the screen when this happens on these sensors rather then trying to write them all down. Thanks
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Friday, March 6th, 2020 AT 8:37 AM
Tiny
COLTON FINNIGAN
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There is no codes throwing. And it's my buddies not mine. The throttle body position sensor is new I just replaced. It the only thing I can think of is the idle air control valve I done dumped $1,000.00+ into this truck to get it to run and no one can figure it out. I'm lost.
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Saturday, March 7th, 2020 AT 12:48 PM
Tiny
COLTON FINNIGAN
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My buddies said his computer reads live data and everything checks out good. On the ECM side.
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Saturday, March 7th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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The way to try and confirm an IAC on this engine is to hold the accelerator open just a touch when this happens.

As you can see from the attachment, the IAC just bypasses the throttle blade to control air flow. So if this is the issue and the IAC is sticking closed not allowing enough air into the engine then cracking the throttle will correct this.

You could be onto something with this because I initially discounted this because you said you cleaned it and that usually at least make a change to the issue. However, re-reading your issue that it is fine when you hold the accelerator seems to prove this out. Clearly it is not definitive but if it were me, I would replace the IAC based on this info.
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Saturday, March 7th, 2020 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
COLTON FINNIGAN
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I changed out the IAC and it will start idle and all that, but still stall randomly. Whether I'm driving or idling it stalls out on me.
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Saturday, March 7th, 2020 AT 7:19 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. Do you have easy access to that scan tool from your friend? If so, we need to monitor a couple things. We need to look at o2 data when it is stalling or getting ready to stall. We need to see if it is going lean when stalling. Either look at the short term fuel trims or o2 voltage.

Also, here is a guide that will run through the other common causes. Let me know which of these we have not addressed and we can chase that down when we see what the o2 sensors are reading when it is stalling. Thanks

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls
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Sunday, March 8th, 2020 AT 4:11 PM
Tiny
COLTON FINNIGAN
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I had another shop try to figure it out and they said my whole right side was really working and it was struggling to stay alive. So it took it to a shop to see if they could fix it. The said it was my fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator. So I pulled the pump even though it was already brand new and replaced it. And replaced the fuel pressure regulator. But when I was doing that I noticed the boot that goes to the fuel pressure regulator witch is also a vacuum hose has a slice in it.. Do you think that could be the problem? I'm going to replace it anyways but was just curious. If that could be what's making my pressure drop. And making it fuel/ air ratio bad.. The mechanic said when they turn the Pump on then off it dropped like 5 psi per 2 secs. I've spent son much money trying to fix this I'm at my ends with it. Lol. And no sorry I have no access to that scan tool.
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 1:33 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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I am not sure I know which line you are talking about however, if it is a vacuum line and not just a vent line then it can definitely be an issue. At least it is not something that we want to ignore. Maybe get a picture of it and that will help.

Also, the fuel pressure dropping that quickly doesn't sound normal so I am sure you are on the right path.

Does this issue happen more after filling the tank? Does it start and then stall almost immediately?
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 2:23 PM
Tiny
COLTON FINNIGAN
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I am currently offshore I will be home Thursday and I can take a picture. But it is the hose that goes to the fuel pressure regulator. And the connecting part has a cut in it. So I had my wife go buy a new one. And also ordered another evap vapor canister (I know this is not the problem) but I snapped the nipple off it and figured I'd replace it. Seeing it's throwing the evap code now cause if it. Also ordered a camshaft position sensor just to be safe in that route. I'm chasing all leads. So hopefully this will stop the stalling. Idk why when I threw it on the scanner the whole right side was struggling to stay alive. Maybe it was fuel issue and hopefully I've resolved it. I won't know till I get home and try it. But it stalls out after it warms ups it seems. Whether it's idling or driving. And when I'm driving it will do it while I'm doing 60.
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Friday, March 27th, 2020 AT 6:53 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Okay. The issue by itself definitely sounds fuel related so if that line going to the regulator is "leaking" then that could be all the issues less the EVAP codes.

Basically I think you are on the right path with your plan. Please let me know what happens and we can go from there. Thanks
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Friday, March 27th, 2020 AT 10:44 AM

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