Intermittent carburetor backfiring on both sides

Is that on Holley's site?

I looked for like an hour. I didn't have a part number just their description from their parts page "Therm Housing Clamp" that matched nothing at Advanced Auto, Jegs, Summit, Holley, or Amazon which didn't even show up in the search. Why wouldn't they include the part number on their stupid sheet? The worst instructions, and exploded part view is so bad you can't even make out a lot of the parts. Thanks.

I'm missing a post I did last night with 3 images of the parts I have leftover or were in the rebuild box, the parts that are on the diagram that I don't have listed by number and the parts circled on the diagram match the part's list. Many of the leftover parts are mostly from the rebuild box are mostly pins but there are a couple I ID by number but not sure how they attach. I need to know if I'm missing parts that should be included that were never there so I can order them. Did you take it down?

That was a bit too techy for me pictures are worth a thousand words. I know some of those names but not all so let me give you a different image to work from. These are all the things that I know came out of the carb (ignoring washers, and pins which I replaced as I went along. There are 4 items here. The plastic piece is #35 but I don't grasp how it goes in.
The bearing I thought came out of one of the holes at the front or back like on the next picture but that doesn't make sense. The screw I think is the screw to hold on the piece going to the secondary accelerator rod at the bottom of the carb. And the last piece is a plug of some sort that has a hex head and threads but I can't picture where it came from. In the 3rd image note that without the electric choke attached I can close the plate 100%.
I thought Finally, I could only get 6 of the 8 plugs out. I'd have to have the others done at the shop as the headers and the steering gear, well I'm sure it's not the first time you've heard this. Gas fouled plugs, everyone. In fact, gas actually dripped out of one of the spark plug holes.

The high idle is to step up for A/C? I guess if you're sitting at a light although I haven't used the A/C since it came back. I'm wondering why I wouldn't need it?

Do you have a picture of where you think this bearing goes? That might trigger my memory. You did note that I took 1 away because only one bearing was found during the deconstruction. The other was in the refresh kit.

I'm talking about the ball bearing that's in the box. I also need to know about the hex plug and that odd black plastic which is #35 on the list from the box picture which I just found out wasn't the right picture so I'm adding it here. It may not be the jetting it may be the lack of spark too or both?

What holds those plastic bearings in place from sliding along the rod?

The ball bearing came out of the carburetor. It's not extra just like the hex plug. They came from the carb. I just can't come up with where they belong or how they attach.

The screw is to hold the Diaphragm lever assy. I just found how the metering body vent valve #35 goes into the metering block, I'll have to deconstruct it again. What does it do?

Now I edited this and all of it disappeared. What the hell?

121 is the Pump discharge check ball and 120 is the Pump discharge weight. The reconstruction didn't mention these parts but they are on the exploded view and chart. Just another Holley oversight. Any way on the exploded view it says the check ball and weight are not used except for mid-70s carburetors or earlier. I didn't think my carburetor was that old but it did have the check ball in the pump discharge "stack" but it didn't have a weight.

Read on about the weight from an article I found on carberatorblog.

Holley 1940 Check Weight

This is the Holley 1940 check weight. These are not produced and if you lose your check weight, then your choices are to find a donor carburetor or make your own. This one is a bit harder than most because it is a hex-shaped weight. I would say the most important spec is the weight. Too much weight and the check ball will not lift as it should. Here are the specifications. Brass 1 gram in weight 7/16" long 5/32" wide, point to point of the hex.

An alternative is to add 1 more check ball on top of the 1st check ball. This is not the preferred method but will get you by.

Now you know but what to do? Do I include it and make a weight somehow or do I leave it out entirely, or put it back with just the one check ball or do the un-preferred method of using a 2nd check ball? What does all this accomplish if it's done properly or not at all?

The hex plug is the last piece.

I don't think you saw this part because it disappeared twice

121 is the pump discharge check ball and 120 is the Pump discharge weight. The reconstruction didn't mention these parts but they are on the exploded view and chart. Just another Holley oversight. Anyway, on the exploded view it says the check ball and weight are not used except for mid-70s carburetors or earlier. I didn't think my carburetor was that old but it did have the check ball in the pump discharge "stack" but it didn't have a weight.

Read on about the weight from an article I found on carberatorblog.

Holley 1940 Check Weight

This is the Holley 1940 check weight. These are not produced and if you lose your check weight, then your choices are to find a donor carburetor or make your own. This one is a bit harder than most because it is a hex-shaped weight. I would say the most important spec is the weight. Too much weight and the check ball will not lift as it should. Here are the specifications. Brass 1 gram in weight 7/16" long 5/32" wide, point to point of the hex.

An alternative is to add 1 more check ball on top of the 1st check ball. This is not the preferred method but will get you by.

Now you know but what to do? Do I include it and make a weight somehow or do I leave it out entirely, or put it back with just the one check ball or do the un-preferred method of using a 2nd check ball? What does all this accomplish if it's done properly or not at all?

Hopefully, this is the last putting it together question. When I took it apart the choke housing has that brass hook that sits inside that arm and when I was checking it out I noticed that it was under a vacuum. That vacuum is no more. Has something gone wrong? There is a hole that looks like it's been plugged with plumbers putty or something but I tried to put my finger over it to see if that would put the suction back but it didn't. I'm at a loss to know if the part has become damaged or will fix itself when installed and on the car but since it's acting differently. How do I know it will work correctly when reinstalled?