Starter not cranking the engine over?

Hello, I'm Danny.

It sounds like you might be having an issue with the starter motor.It sounds like the starter motor solenoid is defective or not working.If you remove the starter motor from your car most all auto parts stores will test for free. Here are some tutorials for you to view showing what is involved:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-a-starter-and-solenoid-works

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/starter-not-working-repair

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-starter-motor

I would be happy to include do it yourself replacement guides if interested.Hope this helps and let me know if you have any further questions on this issue.Thanks for using 2CarPros.

If you're hearing a response when you turn the ignition switch, it's not the switch. If that's a single rather loud clunk each time you turn the switch, there's burned contacts in the starter solenoid or a bad battery cable or connection. Use a test light to measure the voltage on the battery cable at the starter. You'll find 12 volts there. Watch what happens when a helper tries to crank the engine. If the light goes out, there's a bad cable connection. If it stays bright, suspect the starter. When the starter has an intermittent problem like this, any testing has to be done while the problem is occurring.

Do the voltage test so we know where we stand. Need to know what is making the sound you're hearing. Could have a bad contact in the neutral safety switch / transmission range switch.

I'll be back in two days to see how you're doing.

The starter motor could have a bad spot on it which is typical of the Honda starter. Have you anything to report back on?

"Does not start" can mean different things. I am guessing the starter does not crank the engine fast enough for it to start and run. Based on the progression of symptoms, the typical cause is a failure of the charging system to recharge the battery. You should have seen the "battery" warning light on the dash. The car will be running on just the battery until it runs down, and that will last from a half hour to perhaps as much as an hour. As the voltage in the electrical system slowly drops, various computers will start to shut down, in this case, starting with the radio.

The engine should start with a jump-start, then immediately have the charging system tested. Those tests only take a few minutes. I have been reading way too much lately about the severe damage people do when jump-starting an engine incorrectly, or when they connect battery cables backward. When you connect jumper cables, one connects to the positive post on one car, and the positive post on the other car. The second cable connects to the negative post on both cars.

A jump-start will get it going right away, but the battery needs to have enough charge to keep the electrical system running for the drive home. Leave the cables on for a good ten minutes or more. The best would be to use a portable charger to charge the battery at a slow rate for an hour or two. To make the battery last as long as possible, turn off the radio, heater fan, and all possible lights. Drive away before the engine has a chance to warm up. That will reduce the likelihood of the electric radiator fan having to turn on.

The generator is the best suspect, but we normally want to rule out wiring problems first.

Battery not providing sufficient current. Check battery voltage and if possible a high rate discharge test.

Bad main earthing cable. Check and see if the earth cables are ok

Battery terminals bad connection. Clean battery terminals.

Try using jumper from vehicle battery negative to any part of engine to act as additional earthing to see if it works.