Bleed Brakes

Tiny
MARCUS FALLEN-ANGEL MORLOCK
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 SATURN SC2
  • 1.9L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
Last week I blew through my rear bake lines. So I replaced them. Then I went to bleed. I followed the procedure (right rear, left front, left rear, rear front) and only the rear rear and left front were building pressure. The right front and left rear were getting a little fluid but no pressure. So I took the lines off and blew them out with my compressor to make sure there were no blockages. Tried bleeding again still nothing. So I figured it might be my master cylinder. So I got a new one, I had to bleed it on the car because I did not have a vice to bench bleed it. Put it back in and still same problem. I am completely stumped.
Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 9:04 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
Do you have abs on your car? This guide can help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system
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Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 9:51 PM
Tiny
MARCUS FALLEN-ANGEL MORLOCK
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Non abs.
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Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 9:53 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
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You should be bleeding right rear, left rear, right front, left front, that is the proper bleeding sequence.
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+1
Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 9:56 PM
Tiny
MARCUS FALLEN-ANGEL MORLOCK
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I have tried bleeding that way too.
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Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 9:58 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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If you have a new master then it should bleed no problem. What caused the lines to blow out? Also did the rubber or the steel line blow out?
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Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 10:00 PM
Tiny
MARCUS FALLEN-ANGEL MORLOCK
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Somebody pulled out in front of me causing me to slam on brakes. And the metal broke because it was rusted.
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Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 10:02 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Maybe you have more damage from the rust then you realize. Sounds like its sucking air from somewhere. You are going to have to dig deeper and find out what else is damaged.
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Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 10:13 PM
Tiny
MARCUS FALLEN-ANGEL MORLOCK
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  • 5 POSTS
I may have to. Can you tell me the proper way to bleed the master. Because it is a four port system?
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Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 10:15 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • MECHANIC
  • 30,870 POSTS
Most new master cylinders these days I have gotten have four plugs that screw into the ports. Then you fill it with fluid and pump the master master with a screw driver until it gets to hard to pump it. No vice needed, the masters I got even came with the plugs and Instructions how to do it. Other wise you can buy the nipples with hoses and install the nipples and hoses with the ends of the hoses into the master. Then pump the master until no more bubbles form in the fluid in the master while pumping the master.
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Wednesday, June 1st, 2016 AT 10:32 PM
Tiny
BRUNLTD
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  • 1 POST
Ran into same problem. Replaced rusted brake lines. Tried to bleed, no pressure. Replaced master, still no pressure to bleed. Drove me nuts. Found a small paper in box with new master. It said when bleeding brakes only push pedal in one inch. Have someone at wheel bleed it pushing down to floor. Tighten bleeder, then release pedal pushing only 1 in down with pedal again. Repeat on all wheels until clean fluid without air bubbles. This sounded crazy to me, but it worked. 1998 Saturn sl2. R frt and left rear on same line, L frt and R rear on other line. Ps. If you have a stick, wait til you have to bleed the clutch master and slave. Life throws these things at you just so you can pull your hair out. This mechanic is bald by the way. Best Rich!
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Friday, October 5th, 2018 AT 10:26 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
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Great addition to this thread! Please feel free to help out whenever you are on the site :)

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, October 6th, 2018 AT 3:20 PM

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