Different 'will not start' problem, than the rest of posts

Tiny
RIDETHROUGHLIFE
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  • ACURA INTEGRA
My problem is different from the rest of the 'car will not start' problems. I just purchased this 94 integra 1.8 LS and did a tune up on it- [plugs, wires, cap and touched up the rotor by smoothing out the fiber with a file] I intended to replace the rotor with a new one, but the access bolt was too tight and I couldnt get it to budge, instead of breaking it, I just smoothed the old rotor out. I got a quarter mile down the road when the revs dropped to 1500 and the gas was non-responsive and then it proceeded to die. After we got it back, we inspected it for gas in the cylinders, there was. We made sure the rotor was spinning and it was. The car cranks hard, but it just wont catch. Ive read the rest of the posts and have norrowed it down to a big list. It seems like the ICM, the coil or the distributor itself, as well as maybe being a sensor. Im smart enough not to go out and buy everything to make it work, Id like an opinion first. I did find out through my research that I had put two of the wires in the wrong spot on the D cap, but Ive since corrected it, but it still wont start. PLEASE let me know, Im dying to get my new car working again.
Thursday, August 2nd, 2007 AT 9:43 PM

11 Replies

Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
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Is there spark getting to the plugs?
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
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We really do not know. I am guessing that there is not though, because there is gas in the cylinders, and it would not ignite if it were getting spark. I will have to check it tomorrow, any suggestions about how to do it by myself?
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
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Using a spark tester would be the best way, but what I would try first is putting the old cap back on. I always replace distributor cap and rotors in pairs, with the same brand. A slight manufacturing discrepancy causes problems like this. If she runs, then you will have to face that dreaded screw.
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
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Okay, we tested for spark, and there was none, and because of that, it did not start with the old cap back on. My grandpa stripped out the screw, I should not have let him do it, but it is ruined now, I do not know what I can do about it now. I would really hate to get a new distributor.
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
CLEAVAGE4U
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Try to drill it out. If not call the junkyard for a used one or get a re-manufactured one.
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
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Would it be a feasible option to take the distributor off and try to get the rotor off and get the ICM and ignition coil checked out. I know Autozone checks the ICM, but where can I get the coil tested? Or is there a simple test I can do?
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
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I "think" you can check the ohm reading against a new one, but maybe someone can elaborate better.
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
BRUCE HUNT
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If there is voltage at the coil of twelve volts in and nothing out replace it.
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
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Oh thanks you guys, your information really helped me out. My car is running fine now and we have since gone on a hefty road trip in it, no problems at all. I really appreciate all the help.
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
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Hey, what was the solution? The coil? (Thank-you Bruce!)
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
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I am really not sure, we got the bolt free finally, after we drilled it, and I replaced the ICM and the coil. It could have been either, but I went on a road trip 1,200 miles and it has worked like a charm.
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Tuesday, January 24th, 2017 AT 9:09 PM

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