Mechanics

NEED HELP!

1993 Acura Integra

Electrical problem
1993 Acura Integra 4 cyl Automatic 110000 miles

My car cut off this morning while I was on the way to work and we can't figure out whats wrong with it. We're guessing its electrical because the lights on my dashboard (oil, check engine, etc) sometimes flicker and my seatbelt beeps periodically. But anyways, my car cut off and when I would try to start it it wouldn't turn over. Someone stopped and looked under the hood and guessed it was some sort of ignition problem, but a few minutes later I tried it again and it started. I'm scared to drive it now, because I don't want to stop in the middle of the road and I don't know what I should do about it because everyone I have asked has told me they can run a test but probably stilll won't know anything. Please help!
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Bettina_kimberly
December 22, 2008.




Hello – bettina_kimberly

To better assist you please tell me the model of your vehicle. Is it a GS, GS-R, LS, or RS. Also the engine size in liter…. Is it a 1.7 or 1.8?

So we are saying the same thing……I want to make sure I understand you.

You were driving along…. Not stopped…but moving and the car shut off……

When the car shut off…. Were there any dash lights on at that moment?

Okay……while you are sending me the above….I need you to do a couple of things…

First, look at your battery connections really good.

• Where the cables connect is there corrosion or is it nice and clean?
• Is there a good tight connection………
• Is there any sign of black or burnt marks?
• Does the battery look okay there….I.E. Not cracks etc.
• What about the batter cables…. How do they look…. Do they look in good condition. No damage….

Next, if it is drivable, please go to Auto Zone (AZ) or O’Reilly’s (OR) and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don’t get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery and alternator.

Thanks for the donation

Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!

Find a car repair manual for your car repair questions.
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ImpalaSS
Dec 22, 2008.
It is an LS.

I am pretty positive it is 1.7. I didn't drive it today, so I will double check when I get home.

Now that I think about it, I don't think I was moving at the time it shut off. I was stopped at a red light, about to move.

My dash lights are usually always on, so I'm pretty sure at least a few of them were on at the time. Lately the oil light is always on and it flickers. The brake light doesn't come on as much or stay on as long. The funny thing is, I drove my car home last night and none of the lights were on and when I put the seat belt on the light actually cut off. Although it did beep for a minute (when it shouldn't have beeped).

As far as the battery goes, 2 different people looked at it and said it looked fine, and they measured it with a little volt thingy. So I think the batteries are ok.

I willl take it tonight and see what they say. Thank you!

Tiny
Bettina_kimberly
Dec 23, 2008.
Hello – bettina_kimberly

Yes, when you get home if you can let me know if it is a 1.7 liter.

Also, I want to make sure you and I are on the same page…. When I say dash lights I mean like when you turn the key on…. You haven’t started it yet……. And all the indicator lights come on like oil, temp maybe, seat belt, SRS…. All the instrumentation lights….

Well, I do have a little concern here……. You said the oil light is always on and it flickers? Have you checked your oil level? You can burn your engine up if you don’t keep oil in it. That could be up to a $3000 repair. We don't want that. I haven’t looked this up yet, but some vehicles to protect the engine will shut off it the oil is too low. So please make sure you get some oil in there.

Brake light………. On/off…. That could be because your brake fluid is low or your emergency brake is slightly on.

Have you checked all of your fluids lately? Oil, transmission, coolant etc?

Your seat belt……. The light is on until you put your seat belt on and then it goes off…. Right?

The battery………. Just putting a volt meter across it doesn’t check it the same as starting the car. The battery must be check when under load……so another words………It may show 12 volts sitting there……. Now you turn the key to start and it drops to 3 volts………This is where they come up with Cold Cranking AMPS. The battery must be able to put out a certain amount of amps for a certain length of time to properly start the car.

Also, it may be low because the alternator is not putting out correctly. So a visual or just checking voltage across is not a good check.

So, please as before……. First, check your oil……add if necessary…. Then go to Auto Zone (AZ) or O’Reilly’s (OR) and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don’t get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery and alternator.

As far as the folks looking at the batteries…. Tell them thank you for that…. Did they do the visual I suggested?

Look at your battery connections really good.

• Where the cables connect is there corrosion or is it nice and clean?
• Is there a good tight connection………
• Is there any sign of black or burnt marks?
• Does the battery look okay there….I.E. Not cracks etc.
• What about the batter cables…. How do they look…. Do they look in good condition. No damage….

You are welcome for the help………. Have a great day and will be waiting for your response/information on the above……….

You and your family have a very Merry Christmas and a safe New Year…….

Thanks for the donation

Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!

Find a car repair manual for your car repair questions.

ImpalaSS
Dec 23, 2008.
Honestly, we can't find where it says 1.7 or 1.8, but my friend looked up the VIN number on the internet and it said 1.8 so that must be right.

Yes, all my fluids are fine.

I took it took Advance Auto and he ran the battery and alternator, etc test and it was fine. He told me they cannot pull codes for cars older than 96 and I would have to take it to a dealer or mechanic.

I ended up taking it down the street to a guy who specializes in Hondas and Acuras, he was going to tell me what it was for $45. Well, I don't think he really understood me, and quite frankly I think he lied to me. He said he drove it up and down the road a few times and it cut off on him numerous times while he was driving. But yet, so far it has not cut off on me again. He thinks it is the timing belt and he wants to charge me $290 to fix that. $360 to fix that and my shifter not working when it is cold. He says that problem is electrical. I may not know that much about cars but something about it just doesn't sound right to me.

Also, he doesn't have an explanation for me about my dash lights coming on and flickering periodically and the beeping. It hasn't done it since my car shut off so I guess it must sound sort of crazy or something, but it is very coincidental that it suddenly started working right again after I got stuck, when its been acting crazy for months now.

So I'm still in a rut, if there's any other information I can provide you with, please let me know.

Have a wonderful Christmas!

Tiny
Bettina_kimberly
Dec 24, 2008.
Hello –

Thanks for the update……….

Just a couple of things…………first……. Sorry about the pulling the codes……. Anything 95 and prior you can not do it that way………I was dealing with several cars and was more concerned with the engine size……….

So, just a couple of things……one, please provide your VIN number………….

Fluids are okay………. Your oil light…. Is that part of the problem or was the oil low?

Thanks for the info on the battery/alternator.

My advice………. Please don’t take it anywhere else yet until we do some more troubleshooting to narrow things down. We don’t want to see your taken advantage of……truly……which is one of the reasons why we are here………. This is the time of giving……but we don’t want you giving your money away when it isn’t’ needed………

Did you check the battery cables etc as I suggested……what did you find there?

Okay…. What do you say about you going out to the car and pulling the codes for me? I can tell you how………. Then you pull the codes and tell me what you find………….

Have a Merry Christmas and a safe New Year

Thanks for the donation

Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!

Find a car repair manual for your car repair questions.

ImpalaSS
Dec 24, 2008.
Ok, VIN number is JH4DB1653PS005825.

The oil is fine, it's not part of the problem. It's the dash lights. For example, when I drove it down the street I hit a bump and the oil light flashed on. Like I said, before the car stopped the other day the brake and oil and sometimes check engine light would come on, sometimes flicker, sometimes it would just light up a little so that you can barely see it, but fluid and everything is ok. I know I'm not a car expert, but I can pretty much deduce that its something electrical causing that. I never tied it all together, but my CD player has cut off on me before and suddenly started again later. And like I said, my seat belt light wouldn't cut off when I buckled it, and it beeped very randomly as I was driving. I just remembered something else to. My rear window defogger suddenly stopped working, the button stopped lighting up. I may be telling you unnecessary things but I figure anything might help.

And sure, just tell me how to do the codes and I will gladly do it.

Oh yeah, the battery cables look fine to me. I looked at everything you said.

I included some pictures if they help at all.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_car_018_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_car_019_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_car_020_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_car_021_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_car_022_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_car_023_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_car_024_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_car_025_1.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_car_026_1.jpg


Tiny
Bettina_kimberly
Dec 26, 2008.
Hello –

Let’s check the codes. Locate the 2-pin diagnostic connector behind the glove box. I attached a pic where it should be and what it looks like.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Codes_1_1.jpg



I have attached how you check for codes. See if it makes sense to you. The big thing…..DO NOT START THE CAR!

You basically put as a jumper wire or paper clip as the pic shows…from one pin to the other. That jumps them together.

You then turn the car on to where JUST the lights on the dash come on ONLY…..DO NOT START THE CAR!

Watch your check engine light.

The first flash is the first number and the second flash it the second number. So you sit with paper and pencil and count the flashes. It will flash the same number 3 times and then go to the next if there is one. It should always start with 12. So for 12 it will be:

Flash (1) pause flash, flash (2), longer pause…. Flash (1) pause flash, flash (2), longer pause…. Flash (1) pause flash, flash (2), longer pause….

Now from this point on watch and count the other numbers. Say it is 31. It would be:

Flash, Flash, Flash (3) pause flash (1) longer pause…. Flash, Flash, Flash (3) pause flash (1) longer pause…. Flash, Flash, Flash (3) pause flash (1) longer pause….that would be code 31.

The second you see it repeating it self, then turn the car off and immediately remove the paper clip or jumper wire so you don’t forget.

Again – I can not stress enough……DO NOT START THE CAR.

Let me know what the numbers are.

Great job on the pics……..thanks……I attached one below…..the red circle…..that isn’t a chaff mark on the wire is it?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Battery_1.jpg



Please check your battery ground wire and make sure it is good a tight where it connects to the car and it is clean so it does have good contact. Wiggle the wires while the car is running to see if that makes any difference. Do this to the positive wire also.

Please look at the alternator wire and make sure it has a good connection with the alternator. Make sure there is no corrosion and it is clean and tight. Wiggle the wires while the car is running to see if that makes any difference.

You said your oil pressure light blinks. I have attached info on your oil light. Has the oil been low before? Then you added? The reason is, if your oil is low and it comes one for about 5 seconds…..so the switch grounds out……even though it is okay the light will continue to flash until you turn the car off. If you are positive your oil hasn’t been low, let me know about your oil being changed…your sending may be bad.

How often do you change your oil and when was the last time?

Now I am really sorry to keep asking this…..but I want to make sure I understand. You said, “My dash lights are usually always on, so I'm pretty sure at least a few of them were on at the time.”

So we are saying the same thing….when you say dash lights you are not talking about when you turn your headlights on and all the lights inside are on so you can see the gauges, knobs etc. When you say dash lights you are talking about your oil light, your temp light, your check eng light…..right? Does this include the low fuel light, door ajar light, ABS light also?

Great info again on the pics....and as you think of something...like the CD player and the rear defog...I am looking at the wiring to see if all of these connect at one spot.

Please answer all of my questions above just as good as you did before - I am reviewing the wiring diagrams at this time.

Thanks for the donation

Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!

Find a car repair manual for your car repair questions.

Oil pressure Light Operation

The oil pressure indicator light works in two ways: it flashes continuously following a momentary loss of oil pressure, or it goes on and stays on with a complete loss of oil pressure.

When the engine first starts, before oil pressure rises above 4,3 psi, voltage is applied to the oil pressure indicator light and the oil pressure switch to ground. This tests the bulb.

With the engine running, voltage is applied at the WHT/BLU wire of the integrated control unit. With normal oil pressure, the oil pressure switch is open and the oil pressure indicator light does not come on. If the oil pressure switch closes momentarily (more than 0.5 seconds) but then opens again, the YEL/RED wire at the integrated control unit will sense ground through the switch. The integrated control unit will then provide and remove ground for the oil pressure indicator light through the YEL/RED wire. The light will flash on and off until you turn the ignition switch off. The flashing feature will not work until 30 seconds after the initial voltage is applied to the WHT/BLU wire of the oil flasher unit. This delay avoids unnecessary indicator light operation.

If engine oil pressure falls below 4.3 psi and does not increase, the oil pressure switch will stay closed. The oil pressure indicator light will then go on and stay on.

ImpalaSS
Dec 27, 2008.
Ok, I could not figure out how to do the codes. Is this where I'm supposed to put the paper clip in?

[img]http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_picture/290328_carwires_003_1.jpg[/img

The mark on the cable in the pic is just a black mark... like oil or something.

Ummm, you're going to have to tell me where the alternator stuff is.

Ok, when I talk about my dash lights I'm referring to like oil, brake, abs, seatbelt, etc.... they turn red when lit up. Before the incident the brake and oil light would randomly come on while I was driving... sometimes the would blink, sometimes they would just fade.... and sometimes they would only light up just barely, you could hardly see it. The seatbelt light would stay on even if it is buckled. After the incident all the lights seemed to be working fine. None of them were cutting on and the seatbelt one would go off when it was buckled. I did hit a bump once and the oil light flashed. Today I noticed even though I buckled up the seatbelt light stayed on. Also yesterday I noticed the oil light on (but not for long) but it was very dim.

Here's a pic, the ones I circled are the ones that have been lighting up. Sorry so small. These are lit up because I have the key turned.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_cardash_1.jpg



As far as my oil goes, I haven't had to add any to it, its been at a perfect level since I last got it changed. Now I do know it needs to be changed, its way past due. It's been 5933 miles since it was last changed.

My brake fluid is fine, so I don't think the brake light should be coming on.

Also the windshield wiper does not work at the INT setting, when I put it on that setting it does the same thing as the Low setting. And I don't know if I already said this but the air conditioning button doesn't light up anymore. Like I said, I always thought these were little things but I guess everything might help.

Ok, I'm ready with the paper clip, just don't know if I'm doing it right..... Whatever I did, nothing happened..... :)

Tiny
Bettina_kimberly
Dec 29, 2008.
I'm not sure if the first picture worked, here it is again.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/290328_carwires_003_2.jpg


Tiny
Bettina_kimberly
Dec 29, 2008.
Bettina_kimberly

Well….I gotta say………you are doing a great job here…….you are providing outstanding information and pics………you are doing better than many…..thank you………..

Okay………your pic……go with the 2-pin connector …….the wire colors we are looking for….one wire is Green with a White Tracer and the other is Brown………. then grab your paper clip……..again…..PLEASE DO NOT START THE CAR……you just bend the paper clip so one end is in one pin hole and the other end is in the other pin hole...then you just want to turn the key until the dash lights come on…..then count the flashes as above………

Okay on the cable – a smug…………I do see you have what looks like an oil leak………make sure that isn’t dripping into any plug……that will affect the electrical connection…..let me know on that..


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Picture7_15.jpg



Alternator……….you betcha………It will have a drive belt going to it….it kind of looks like the pic below……….check these connections really good……..Be careful………..using your hands are okay………but…do not use a tool as it will spark if you ground it…..now, you can disconnect the battery and then use a tool……….again, just make sure the battery is disconnected if you use a tool.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_Picture5_16.jpg



Thanks for the donation

Please let us know if what the final fix was for your car so we can better assist others. Thanks!

Find a car repair manual for your car repair questions.

ImpalaSS
Dec 30, 2008.

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