1993 Acura Integra Need Help!

Hello – bettina_kimberly

To better assist you please tell me the model of your vehicle. Is it a GS, GS-R, LS, or RS. Also the engine size in liter….is it a 1.7 or 1.8?

So we are saying the same thing……I want to make sure I understand you.

You were driving along…..not stopped…but moving and the car shut off……

When the car shut off…..were there any dash lights on at that moment?

Okay……while you are sending me the above….I need you to do a couple of things…

First, look at your battery connections really good.

• Where the cables connect is there corrosion or is it nice and clean?
• Is there a good tight connection………
• Is there any sign of black or burnt marks?
• Does the battery look okay there….i.e. not cracks etc.
• What about the batter cables…..how do they look….do they look in good condition..no damage….

Next, if it is drivable, please go to Auto Zone (AZ) or O’Reilly’s (OR) and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don’t get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery and alternator.

It is an LS.

I am pretty positive it is 1.7. I didn't drive it today, so I will double check when I get home.

Now that I think about it, I don't think i was moving at the time it shut off. I was stopped at a red light, about to move.

My dash lights are usually always on, so I'm pretty sure at least a few of them were on at the time. Lately the oil light is always on and it flickers. The brake light doesn't come on as much or stay on as long. The funny thing is, I drove my car home last night and none of the lights were on and when I put the seat belt on the light actually cut off. Although it did beep for a minute (when it shouldn't have beeped).

As far as the battery goes, 2 different people looked at it and said it looked fine, and they measured it with a little volt thingy. So I think the batteries are ok.

I willl take it tonight and see what they say. Thank you!

Hello – bettina_kimberly

Yes, when you get home if you can let me know if it is a 1.7 liter.

Also, I want to make sure you and I are on the same page…..when I say dash lights I mean like when you turn the key on…..you haven’t started it yet……..and all the indicator lights come on like oil, temp maybe, seat belt, SRS….all the instrumentation lights…..

Well, I do have a little concern here…….you said the oil light is always on and it flickers? Have you checked your oil level? You can burn your engine up if you don’t keep oil in it. That could be up to a $3000 repair.....we don't want that. I haven’t looked this up yet, but some vehicles to protect the engine will shut off it the oil is too low. So please make sure you get some oil in there.

Brake light……….on/off…..that could be because your brake fluid is low or your emergency brake is slightly on.

Have you checked all of your fluids lately??? Oil, transmission, coolant etc??

Your seat belt……..the light is on until you put your seat belt on and then it goes off….right?

The battery……….just putting a volt meter across it doesn’t check it the same as starting the car. The battery must be check when under load……so another words………It may show 12 volts sitting there…….now you turn the key to start and it drops to 3 volts………This is where they come up with Cold Cranking AMPS.......the battery must be able to put out a certain amount of amps for a certain length of time to properly start the car.

Also, it may be low because the alternator is not putting out correctly. So a visual or just checking voltage across is not a good check.

So, please as before…….first, check your oil……add if necessary…..then go to Auto Zone (AZ) or O’Reilly’s (OR) and for FREE they can pull the codes to the car. Most important: Once they check your codes, if they find something and you don’t get it fixed and need to get back with us, please make sure you tell us exactly what the code was, number and all. Example, if the code was E0568 O2 Sensor bad. Then make sure you give us all of that. While there for FREE also they can bring their tester out and check your battery and alternator.

As far as the folks looking at the batteries…..tell them thank you for that…..did they do the visual I suggested??

Look at your battery connections really good.

• Where the cables connect is there corrosion or is it nice and clean?
• Is there a good tight connection………
• Is there any sign of black or burnt marks?
• Does the battery look okay there….i.e. not cracks etc.
• What about the batter cables…..how do they look….do they look in good condition..no damage….

You are welcome for the help………..have a great day and will be waiting for your response/information on the above……….

You and your family have a very Merry Christmas and a safe New Year…….

Honestly, we can't find where it says 1.7 or 1.8, but my friend looked up the VIN number on the internet and it said 1.8 so that must be right.

Yes, all my fluids are fine.

I took it took Advance Auto and he ran the battery and alternator, etc test and it was fine. He told me they cannot pull codes for cars older than 96 and I would have to take it to a dealer or mechanic.

I ended up taking it down the street to a guy who specializes in Hondas and Acuras, he was going to tell me what it was for $45. Well, I don't think he really understood me, and quite frankly I think he lied to me. He said he drove it up and down the road a few times and it cut off on him numerous times while he was driving. But yet, so far it has not cut off on me again. He thinks it is the timing belt and he wants to charge me $290 to fix that. $360 to fix that and my shifter not working when it is cold. He says that problem is electrical. I may not know that much about cars but something about it just doesn't sound right to me.

Also, he doesn't have an explanation for me about my dash lights coming on and flickering periodically and the beeping. It hasn't done it since my car shut off so I guess it must sound sort of crazy or something, but it is very coincidental that it suddenly started working right again after I got stuck, when its been acting crazy for months now.

So I'm still in a rut, if there's any other information I can provide you with, please let me know.

Have a wonderful Christmas!

Hello –

Thanks for the update………..

Just a couple of things…………first……..sorry about the pulling the codes…….anything 95 and prior you can not do it that way………I was dealing with several cars and was more concerned with the engine size……….

So, just a couple of things……one, please provide your VIN number………….

Fluids are okay……….your oil light…..is that part of the problem or was the oil low?

Thanks for the info on the battery/alternator.

My advice………..please don’t take it anywhere else yet until we do some more troubleshooting to narrow things down. We don’t want to see your taken advantage of……truly……which is one of the reasons why we are here………..this is the time of giving……but we don’t want you giving your money away when it isn’t’ needed………

Did you check the battery cables etc as I suggested……what did you find there?

Okay…..what do you say about you going out to the car and pulling the codes for me? I can tell you how……….then you pull the codes and tell me what you find………….

Have a Merry Christmas and a safe New Year

Ok, VIN number is JH4DB1653PS005825. The oil is fine, it's not part of the problem. It's the dash lights. For example, when I drove it down the street I hit a bump and the oil light flashed on. Like I said, before the car stopped the other day the brake and oil and sometimes check engine light would come on, sometimes flicker, sometimes it would just light up a little so that you can barely see it, but fluid and everything is ok. I know I'm not a car expert, but I can pretty much deduce that its something electrical causing that. I never tied it all together, but my CD player has cut off on me before and suddenly started again later. And like I said, my seat belt light wouldn't cut off when I buckled it, and it beeped very randomly as I was driving. I just remembered something else to. My rear window defogger suddenly stopped working, the button stopped lighting up. I may be telling you unnecessary things but I figure anything might help. And sure, just tell me how to do the codes and I will gladly do it. Oh yeah, the battery cables look fine to me. I looked at everything you said. I included some pictures if they help at all.

Hello - Let's check the codes. Locate the 2-pin diagnostic connector behind the glove box. I attached a pic where it should be and what it looks like.

I have attached how you check for codes. See if it makes sense to you. The big thing.....DO NOT START THE CAR! You basically put as a jumper wire or paper clip as the pic shows...from one pin to the other. That jumps them together. You then turn the car on to where JUST the lights on the dash come on ONLY.....DO NOT START THE CAR! Watch your check engine light. The first flash is the first number and the second flash it the second number. So you sit with paper and pencil and count the flashes. It will flash the same number 3 times and then go to the next if there is one. It should always start with 12. So for 12 it will be: Flash (1) pause flash, flash (2), longer pause.... Flash (1) pause flash, flash (2), longer pause.... Flash (1) pause flash, flash (2), longer pause.... Now from this point on watch and count the other numbers. Say it is 31. It would be: Flash, Flash, Flash (3) pause flash (1) longer pause.... Flash, Flash, Flash (3) pause flash (1) longer pause.... Flash, Flash, Flash (3) pause flash (1) longer pause....that would be code 31. The second you see it repeating it self, then turn the car off and immediately remove the paper clip or jumper wire so you don't forget. Again - I can not stress enough......DO NOT START THE CAR. Let me know what the numbers are. Great job on the pics........thanks......I attached one below.....the red circle.....that isn't a chaff mark on the wire is it?

Please check your battery ground wire and make sure it is good a tight where it connects to the car and it is clean so it does have good contact. Wiggle the wires while the car is running to see if that makes any difference. Do this to the positive wire also. Please look at the alternator wire and make sure it has a good connection with the alternator. Make sure there is no corrosion and it is clean and tight. Wiggle the wires while the car is running to see if that makes any difference. You said your oil pressure light blinks. I have attached info on your oil light. Has the oil been low before? Then you added? The reason is, if your oil is low and it comes one for about 5 seconds.....so the switch grounds out......even though it is okay the light will continue to flash until you turn the car off. If you are positive your oil hasn't been low, let me know about your oil being changed...your sending may be bad. How often do you change your oil and when was the last time? Now I am really sorry to keep asking this.....but I want to make sure I understand. You said, "My dash lights are usually always on, so I'm pretty sure at least a few of them were on at the time." So we are saying the same thing....when you say dash lights you are not talking about when you turn your headlights on and all the lights inside are on so you can see the gauges, knobs etc. When you say dash lights you are talking about your oil light, your temp light, your check eng light.....right? Does this include the low fuel light, door ajar light, ABS light also? Great info again on the pics....and as you think of something...like the CD player and the rear defog...I am looking at the wiring to see if all of these connect at one spot. Please answer all of my questions above just as good as you did before - I am reviewing the wiring diagrams at this time. Oil pressure Light Operation The oil pressure indicator light works in two ways: it flashes continuously following a momentary loss of oil pressure, or it goes on and stays on with a complete loss of oil pressure. When the engine first starts, before oil pressure rises above 4,3 psi, voltage is applied to the oil pressure indicator light and the oil pressure switch to ground. This tests the bulb. With the engine running, voltage is applied at the WHT/BLU wire of the integrated control unit. With normal oil pressure, the oil pressure switch is open and the oil pressure indicator light does not come on. If the oil pressure switch closes momentarily (more than 0.5 seconds) but then opens again, the YEL/RED wire at the integrated control unit will sense ground through the switch. The integrated control unit will then provide and remove ground for the oil pressure indicator light through the YEL/RED wire. The light will flash on and off until you turn the ignition switch off. The flashing feature will not work until 30 seconds after the initial voltage is applied to the WHT/BLU wire of the oil flasher unit. This delay avoids unnecessary indicator light operation. If engine oil pressure falls below 4.3 psi and does not increase, the oil pressure switch will stay closed. The oil pressure indicator light will then go on and stay on.

Ok, I could not figure out how to do the codes. Is this where I'm supposed to put the paper clip in? [img]https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_picture/290328_carwires_003_1.jpg[/img The mark on the cable in the pic is just a black mark... like oil or something. Ummm, you're going to have to tell me where the alternator stuff is. Ok, when I talk about my dash lights I'm referring to like oil, brake, abs, seatbelt, etc.... they turn red when lit up. Before the incident the brake and oil light would randomly come on while I was driving... sometimes the would blink, sometimes they would just fade.... and sometimes they would only light up just barely, you could hardly see it. The seatbelt light would stay on even if it is buckled. After the incident all the lights seemed to be working fine. None of them were cutting on and the seatbelt one would go off when it was buckled. I did hit a bump once and the oil light flashed. Today I noticed even though I buckled up the seatbelt light stayed on. Also yesterday I noticed the oil light on (but not for long) but it was very dim. Here's a pic, the ones I circled are the ones that have been lighting up. Sorry so small. These are lit up because I have the key turned.

As far as my oil goes, I haven't had to add any to it, its been at a perfect level since I last got it changed. Now I do know it needs to be changed, its way past due. It's been 5933 miles since it was last changed. My brake fluid is fine, so I don't think the brake light should be coming on. Also the windshield wiper does not work at the INT setting, when I put it on that setting it does the same thing as the Low setting. And I don't know if I already said this but the air conditioning button doesn't light up anymore. Like I said, I always thought these were little things but I guess everything might help. Ok, I'm ready with the paper clip, just don't know if I'm doing it right..... Whatever I did, nothing happened..... :)

I'm not sure if the first picture worked, here it is again.

bettina_kimberly Well....I gotta say.........you are doing a great job here.......you are providing outstanding information and pics.........you are doing better than many.....thank you........... Okay.........your pic......go with the 2-pin connector .......the wire colors we are looking for....one wire is Green with a White Tracer and the other is Brown.......... then grab your paper clip........again.....PLEASE DO NOT START THE CAR......you just bend the paper clip so one end is in one pin hole and the other end is in the other pin hole...then you just want to turn the key until the dash lights come on.....then count the flashes as above......... Okay on the cable - a smug............I do see you have what looks like an oil leak.........make sure that isn't dripping into any plug......that will affect the electrical connection.....let me know on that..

Alternator..........you betcha.........It will have a drive belt going to it....it kind of looks like the pic below..........check these connections really good........Be careful...........using your hands are okay.........but...do not use a tool as it will spark if you ground it.....now, you can disconnect the battery and then use a tool..........again, just make sure the battery is disconnected if you use a tool.

Hi,

Sorry it took me so long to get back to you. Ok, I couldn't get the code. I'm sure I did it right, I asked my stepdad to make sure I was following the directions right, the check engine light came on when the paper clip was in there, but there was no blinking going on.

Ok, next, my car did it again and it's not turning on this time. It's sitting at a gas station down the street right now. This time it acted like it was trying to turn over. My dads gonna pull it to my house tomorrow and take a look at it and some guy my mom knows is going to change the timing belt.... Whether thats it or not. So I'm in a pickle. My mom wants me to take it to the dealer, I'm scared I'd be paying them what the cars worth.

I haven't checked the alternator yet, but I will do it tomorrow. It's been dark outside by the time I've gotten off work.

I jinxed myself today, I was telling my dad its been driving great not even 5 minutes before it shut off.

Once again, I'm sorry it took me so long to get back with you. I will definately let you know what happens tomorrow.

Hello....glad to hear from you...... Try the paper clip, the same thing in the other plug and let me know........... My advice.....I am not there so I don't have all the facts and I am certainly in no way second guessing your dad and step dad. My input - it isn't the timing belt. At this point I feel you are wasting your time and money by changing this.....my reason.....if the timing belt were broke....the car would not start......ever... currently, it starts runs then quits....then runs.....then quits..... Next, the timing belt deals with the timing......when your car is running....it runs okay (other than the lights). If the timing were off it would be hard to start and running very rough because the timing does just that - it lines up each cylinder to fire at a certain point.....your engine fires cylinder 1 - 3 - 4 - 2. If it did not fire in that order it would run very rough....your vehicle based off what you are saying isn't doing that. Now if the engine is turning over, that is the belts are spinning and it isn't starting, then you can remove the oil service cap from the top of the valve cover.....while trying to start the car if the belts are moving and you look inside and the lifters are moving....it isn't the timing belt. If the timing slipped, then it would not start or run but you can check to see if when you put the timing mark at TDC that the rotor is pointing to the number one on the distributor cap.

When you say it isn't turning on....you mean you turn the key to on and try to start the car.....the lights on the dash come on but nothing....it all sits quiet? Or...you turn the key on and the car is totally dead.....no lights...no life..... Do your headlights turn on? Again, I am in no way over riding your dad or step dad....I am not there. I am only providing information to assist. If you turn your key on and the dash light come on but the engine doesn't move....take a jumper cable and go from the positive side your battery and touch the post that the positive wire from the battery connects to the starter and see if the starter turns the engine. If you are unsure if your battery is good, then put the jumper cables on a good battery, neg to neg and pos to pos then on your car, put the neg on a metal bracket on your engine, take the pos cable and touch your starter in the same point as above and see if it tries to start. Again, I am not overriding your folks...........not here for that.....just providing assistance.

Ok, another update. We went to my car this morning to check on it and we just said what the heck and tried to jump the car. Well, my car started and I was able to make it to my moms. So what does that mean? Now the popular opinion is the alternator....

Hello – Glad to hear from you

Well, it could be several things. We need to eliminate some of them. Can you do any of the checks above…..specifically get to AZ and check the battery and alternator?

Ok, will do all that tomorrow. Printers not working so I'm gonna have to write down all of this stuff. And I don't have a car to get back to my car right now.

We did do the check at Autozone and they said everything was fine. Should we do that again?

Thank you so much... You've been so helpful.

bettina_kimberly Okay - I went back through the posts and want to make sure we are on the same page. A couple of the questions were accidently not answered so I don't want to overlook something for you. When you say the car dies........do you mean it shuts off running but you still have electrical power....dash lights, head lights etc...... Or...is the entire car dead as in no lights, no nothing....it is like someone took the battery out and the car is totally dead? Since you have already had the battery and alternator checked....we will go with that. When they checked the alternator though - did they bring a machine out and hood to it and test it running for a certain output? How did they test it? On your alternator belt....pick a distance between two pulleys that are the farthest apart....then press on the belt in the middle....if it depresses more that about ½ inch it is too loose and needs to be tightened.....that can give you erratic electrical problems. I put a pic below for an example. If the belt was on both pulley wheels....pick the spot in the middle of the belt to press....

Next - if the car quits next time before we get it figured out, I need you to pull a spark plug wire, put something, metal in the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine, about 1/32nd to 1/16th of an inch and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark. Don't have your hands on any part of the metal!!! If there is no spark, then we know it is electrical in the ignition system. It would be nice if when that happens if there is NO spark....then take jumper cables and if you are using your battery, then connect the pos cable to the battery pos terminal and then on the starter, the battery positive cable hooks up there.....touch nothing but the jumper cable to that nut and see if the starter tries to start the car. BUT don't touch anything else....the jumper cable has 12v sitting on it and if you touch anything else it will spark pretty good. Some of the things I am thinking if the car is just cutting off.....you still have electrical power...ie you can turn your headlights on etc......is possible a bad ignition switch, ignition coil, ignition control module, bad crankshaft sensor. When the car quits like that.....is it damp outside? I have attached a check for the ignition coil.......

NOTE: Resistance will vary with the coil temperature; specifications are at 68 °F (20 °C). With the ignition switch OFF, remove the distributor cap.

Remove the 2 screws to disconnect the BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires from the terminals A(+) and B(-) respectively. Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the primary winding between the A and B terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within specifications. Resistance: 0.6 - 0.8 Ohms Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance of the secondary winding between the A and secondary winding terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within specifications. Resistance: 12,800 - 19,200 Ohms Did you try checking the codes on both plugs again yet? I would like you to see if it works on the 2-pin plug and then if not the 3-pin. Tell me what happens. Okay, please be just as specific as you have been on your answers.......... Looking forward to hearing from you.

Hi

Got 2 cents extra so deciede to spend it here hope you all don't mind.

From the symptoms described, it seems the power supply connection is lost somewhere, sometimes and they could possibly be
1. Faulty ignition switch. Slowly turn ignition switch from ACC to ON, does the dash lights flickers or goes off? ( YES ?) Slowly turn to START, does the light flickers or goes off? ( YES ) When crankiing the starter, is the battery charge light ON all the time? ( NO ) If answers are as in the brackets, the ignition switch is bad.

2. Bad connections from junction boxes to alternator and/or ignition switch. Test the charging rate at alternator mast and at battery terminals. If both have similar voltages of 13.5 to 15.5 v, the alternator and wire circuit has no problem.

3. Loose or bad ground. Check all possible groundings, especially those on front inner panels just behind the headlights. Check the thermostat housing ground as well.

If no problems were found in the above, I would need to break my piggy bank for more cents to spend ;)

Have a nice day.

Ok, I'm sorry I didn't answer those questions for you. Let me answer the ones I can, and then I'll get back to you with the other ones.

When the car dies all of the lights on the inside stay on. Everything works but the engine.

The machine they used checked everything, the battery, alternator, and starter. It was umm about the size of a shoebox maybe. He said everything was normal, but the starter was a little slow, but he said that wasn't a big deal.

The first time the car quit on me it was a really cold foggy morning. The second time it was raining but not incredibly cold.

The ignition switch was changed about 2-3 years ago, my car cut off while I was driving it then, just never cut back on. My dad figured out it was that and fixed it for me.

Ok, I'm going to go try all of the other things in a few minutes and I'll get back to you with what happens.

Hello –

bettina_kimberly – great to hear from you……..

Okay…..please don’t forget the check that KHLow2008 suggested as it may be the ignition switch again…..

Also, check your distributor cap……if it is cracked it may be drawing in moisture….and a crack will be extremely hard to see………

Thank you very much for the update……

I hope you have a great day……looking forward to hearing back from you.

Ok, this is what I did. I was able to print out everything that you've written me. I went to look at my car and attempt the things you've said. I could not figure anything out. I gave all the sheets to my stepdad and he did everything you said. The distributor cap was fine. As far as the ignition, it does not flicker and the battery light does not stay on. The oil isn't dripping on anything. Did I forget anything?

Hi,

If the battery light comes on when switch is turned to ON and goes off when you are cranking, the ignition switch is bad.