A/C EVAP tube leak

Tiny
WRENCHERHEAD
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 2.2L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 138,000 MILES
I have developed a leak on the EVAP tube where the orifice sits. It has a small crack where the tube integrates into the mounting flange center over the orifice housing. Is there something I can use to repair it (ie JB Weld) that will not fail, or do I have to replace it? This one I got from pic-a-parts and lasted several years, but I would like to avoid having to take off another one from the salvage yard. It's anywhere from 105-112 degrees outside and 90's in the mornings, so I'm hoping you can suggest something that will work to repair it. And I know to replace the accumulator and orifice and apply vacuum to check for leaks and to cleanse the system before charging. That reminds me, I've watched videos and read articles in reference to adding oil, dye or a mix of both into the charge hose. I'm using straight R134A refrigerant. Doesn't R134A come with lubricant in it from the manufacturer? I know that one down side is not knowing how much oil is being added unless using a measuring cup, even with that, there's no way to tell how much the compressor needs without pulling it out of the vehicle and drain it into a measuring cup, otherwise it's a guessing game. Too much or too little, and then it could get over or undercharged. So many contradictive opinions. Please explain the pros and cons and proper way. By the way gauge readings on initial test: lo-side=0, hi-side=50. System looks all but empty. Thanks Wrencherhead
Monday, July 15th, 2019 AT 4:38 PM

9 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

There is no sealer that will hold the pressure. You will need to replace it again.

You add 2 ounces of oil to the evaporator prior to installing. Add one more ounce to the dryer when you change it as well. Then do your evacuation for at least 30-45 minutes and charge.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, July 16th, 2019 AT 3:31 AM
Tiny
WRENCHERHEAD
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
I am going to ask an ignorant question. How do I add it to the evaporator where it's unreachable in the car? Do I pour it in at the orifice housing at the condenser where the one end of EVAP tube/line that's bad connects and for the accumulator do I pour it directly into it before mounting? I also have the 1 aerosol can of oil and 1 of dye. Would it make the job easier and less time consuming? If so, could you tell me the proper steps? I've not done this part of the procedure before. The only drawback with the aerosol is not knowing exactly how much is being added unless the gauges will give an indication. If that's the case, is there a guideline of approximate reading to watch for on the gauges? In general, with a properly charged system lo-side should be approx. 20-30 psi and hi-side 200-300 depending on ambient temperature and humidity. Is this correct? I'm in Nevada and it's monsoon season where humidity is high and temperatures running 105-112 degrees. Should the gauges still read in these ranges? Please reply ASAP if possible. I have only 2 more days to finish repairs, otherwise I'll be S.O.L on the car. It's a long story. Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 16th, 2019 AT 8:00 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, you add the oil before you install the evaporator core, not after.

As far as pressures, the high side should be 2 times ambient temperature plus 15%.

The low side should be 25-30 rock solid.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, July 16th, 2019 AT 9:21 AM
Tiny
WRENCHERHEAD
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
I'm not replacing the core, just the EVAP line /tube that runs from the core to condenser and connects where the orifice is housed. I don't know how I'm going be able to pour oil into w/out it spilling or running all over and not enough room to maneuver the bottle. The inlet and outlet pipes are in the firewall tunnel and taking it out is not an option at this stage. Time is my worst enemy. It's a miracle if I get 5-8 hours per week to work on the car that's in a car port, not a garage. The car has been down for 16 months due to lack of time because of the 24/7 care taking of both of my parents. I'm in a corner with my back against the wall. I've exhausted all 10 day permits that's allowed per year with 2 days left to wrap this up or I won't be able to drive it legally until the end of the year. So, if you have an alternative way of adding the oil with the least amount of time and labor, I desperately need to know. Thanks
P.S. The only thing I can think of to add the oil with limited access is using one of those rubber ear wash bulbs to squeeze and inject the oil in the core. Right idea or not?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 16th, 2019 AT 11:24 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay, sorry, I thought you were replacing the evaporator.

If you are doing the line, no need for oil. Just add the oil to the dryer.

Then evacuate and charge.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, July 16th, 2019 AT 12:56 PM
Tiny
WRENCHERHEAD
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
No problem, but I need to be clear on this. When you thought I was replacing the core, you said to put 2 oz oil in the core and 1 oz in the accumulator/dryer. Now that the core is not the issue, do I eliminate the 2 oz that would've been for the core, and just give the drier the 1 oz or does it need a total of 3 oz in the drier for the system? Also, isn't Freon (R134A) processed with lubricant in it? By the way, I went to pic-a-parts and took an EVAP line off another car same as mine. What's good to clean the inside of line/tube with before I install it? Mark
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, July 16th, 2019 AT 4:07 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Okay.

1. No, there is no lube in 134.

2. Add 1 ounce to the dryer.

3. Use brake kleen to clean out the line.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Tuesday, July 16th, 2019 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
WRENCHERHEAD
  • MEMBER
  • 34 POSTS
I have 1 more issue (hopefully the last) about the compressor. This goes back to the beginning of noticing my ac problem. About 1/4 mi. Before exiting the freeway, the ac air started blowing warmer. By the time I got home (approx. 5 min from frwy) I noticed the compressor was noisier and my rpm was running approx. Twice normal idle spd. And wouldn't return to idle even after blipping the throttle several times and ac air was now about ambient temp. Shut off ac/ign. And came back to it 3-4 hrs later. Started it back up, turned ac on and idle was now normal. Blipped throttle a few times and idle spd stayed normal, but now heard a knock sound at the exact moment it returned to idle spd. Every time it returned to idle identical 1knock. Checked with stethoscope, came from compressor but no longer was noisy, but forgot to check to see or listen if comp. Clutch kicked on or off (senior moment). I'm assuming I gotta remove comp. And check if it has oil or not before charging it. Tell me what order of steps to take before I remove it. Thanks
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, July 26th, 2019 AT 10:44 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
If the compressor is knocking, you need to replace it. Adding oil will not fix it. The damage is already done.

Recover the Freon from the system with a recovery machine so as not to allow it to bleed to air. Then you can remove the compressor.

Roy
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, July 27th, 2019 AT 11:17 AM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links