No electrical power?

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,815 POSTS

The ignition switch is bad when the cluster indicators do not turn on.

The ON circuit has failed while the START circuit is still functional, that is the reason it can crank but does not fire up.

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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 12:20 PM (Merged)

MESMERIZED

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Thank you so much!. Car is running youre the best

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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 12:20 PM (Merged)

KHLOW2008

MECHANIC
41,815 POSTS

You're welcome.

Glad to know you have fixed the problem.

Have a nice day.

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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 12:20 PM (Merged)

JOHNDAMBERG

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1985 HONDA CIVIC
4 CYL
FWD
MANUAL
105,000 MILES

Hi. I just had the engine replaced in my 1985 Honda Civic 4 door wagon with a rebuilt ATK engine. It was put in by a local mechanic in Anchorage. It started fine for 2 weeks and then it wouldn't start the other day. So I cleaned the battery terminals and checked the battery power, which checked out ok. After reattaching the battery terminals and jiggling them around, the car got electrical power and started fine. Yesterday the car wouldn't start again and I am getting no electrical power to any of the car's lights, radio or anything else. So I did the following

1. Checked the battery again-its ok
2. Replaced the 55 amp, and two 45 amp main fuses.
3. Cleaned the battery terminals again
4. Checked and replaced the 10 amp fuse coming off the positive terminal of the battery
5. Checked the engine ground connection from the negative battery terminal. It seems ok
6. Checked all the 10-15 amp fuses under the dashboard-they are ok.
Still I am getting now electrical charge to any of the car's circuits. So what's next, where do I go from here?
I did replace the positive terminal battery lead cables last may 2008.
Thanks for your help.

John Damberg

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Monday, January 4th, 2021 AT 12:20 PM (Merged)

ZACKMAN

MECHANIC
4,202 POSTS

Get yourself a DVOM digital volt/ohm meter. Then use the process of elimination to see which part under the hood that cuts off the circuit.

Start with the battery. I know you checked it, check it again. Record the battery voltage, so you know what you should be getting everywhere. Follow the positive cable from the battery to the main fuse/relay block. Pull your main fuse. Probe the fuse housing. Do you have power? If YES, go to the next fuse. If NO, find the break in that particular circuit. Check all circuits/fuses in that fuse /relay block. If I am to guess, you have one maybe more, fusible link that are broken.