ECM replacement and location

Tiny
WVPAULEYS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
We received a code of P0171 meaning we need to replace our PCM and A/F sensor. Can we still drive the car until the part comes, or will it lead to more damage.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
This code does not mean replace the pcm or the mass air flow unit (A/F sensor). I would is get some mass air flow cleaner (nothing else) and clean the mass air flow meter. After cleaning it reset the light with a code reader and see if it comes back. If it does then it may be an that we will have to run tests on the coolant temp sensor or the mass air flow meter to see what it causing it to run a bit lean.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
This could also be a bad upstream O2 sensor, but as racefan pointed out, certainly not a PCM.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,029 POSTS
I totally agree thanks for that mm I forgot to mention the it could be an O2 too.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MALIKA.LUNDY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2005 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 119,000 MILES
Can the engine control module cause the engine to lock up in a 2005 toyota corolla?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:54 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
If you're talking about the engine locked/seized-up-I don't think so
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:54 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
I agree with Raz, not going to lock the engine.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:54 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ERSMUS DEON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2004 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 156,000 MILES
Good day, my name is Deon and is my corolla giving me grey hair. When my car is cold it performs well, but as soon as the heatgauge is in the middle the car when I pull away or driving in 2 or 3 gear under 2000 reffs and I want to accellarate it hesitates till its over 2000 reffs and then it goes freely. When I reset the ecu or just disconnect my battery for about 20mins and drive again it goes well cold or hot engine for about 2 week. Toyota cant find the problem and has tested vvti gear, maf sensor, cleaned ocv. Please help as no one knows whats wrong. Thanks Deon
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:54 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Scan for codes and check fuel pressure with a gauge first auto parts rent it. Check for a vacuum leak
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:54 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ERSMUS DEON
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks for answering my question. Do you think the computer box or even petrol filter can contribute to such problems. Deon
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:54 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Doubt it's the box but until you do what I said in first reply you'll not know you have to start someplace
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:54 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CLINT TUCKER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2004 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
I got a trouble code P.O. 133 which is a slow acting O2 front bank sensor. I replaced the sensor and still get the same trouble code. This car seems to give spurious codes at various times and has throughout it's life, and the vehicle now has about 150,000 miles on it. The codes seem to be getting more ane more frequent. My question is, do you think I should replace the control module? Thanks for your input as this is getting old.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:54 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,380 POSTS
Sounds liike it could be failing, let me know the following to help rule out others possibilities;

Has the O2 sensor code been cleared for a period of time and then it got thrown again?
Are the trouble codes for various things or are they maintenance type items?
Do codes clear themselves?
How frequently are codes being thrown?

I will keep an eye on this and get back ASAP.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:54 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MACROSOX
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2003 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 22,100 MILES
After my "check engine" light came on ( not blinking) the Toyota repair centre folks said they found codes relating to the fuel fill neck (Evap System), but the ECU was not reading the VIN. They cleared the codes and the light did not come back on BUT they warned that if the light did come back on I would require a new ECU and re-check. It is not covered by warranty as the vehicle is now over 6 years old.

Does it make sense that the ECU could fail with only 22,000 miles (but 6 plus years) on the vehicle?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MASTERTECHTIM
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,749 POSTS
No it definitely does not. Sounds like they are not sure of their diagnosis of the original problem of a evap system leak. Usually I find that the vent solenoid on the charcoal canister is faulty causing this code. Probably code 440 or close to it.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Sunday, August 9th, 2020 AT 11:55 AM (Merged)
Tiny
IAN4421974
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Good Evening,

I am at my wits end with the 2007 Corolla I have picked up.

I replaced the following:

MAF
Both 02 Sensors
Cat Converter
Exhaust Manifold
Air Filter
Fuel Injectors.
Purge Valve by air filter housing

Car was burning lean getting P0171 errors. Smoke check revealed no leaks. I can clear the light but it randomly comes back on about 10 minutes after it's started.

Someone mentioned a Bad ECM. Could this be the answer I am looking for?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, April 7th, 2021 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,230 POSTS
Hi,

Is the P0171 the only code you are getting? When you checked for vacuum leaks, did you check the intake? Is the fuel pressure within the manufacturer's spec? Low pressure can also cause a lean mixture.

I have one last question (sorry for so many). Do you have a live data scan tool? If you do, check the short-term fuel trims and also confirm the coolant temp sensor is reading correctly.

If you look at the attached pic, it shows the possible issues. If you haven't, check fuel pressure first. Also, confirm there are no vacuum leaks in the air intake tube between the airbox and throttle body and the intake manifold. Also, if you have an engine vacuum gauge, let me know the reading at idle.

Here is a link that explains how to check for a vacuum leak. Note that the smoke test shows leaks in the EVAP, but can miss something in the air inlet or intake. Also, check the PCV to see if there is an issue there as well.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

If you look through the remaining pics, they provide diagnostic procedures. They cover everything that can cause this code.

If you haven't already, confirm fuel pressure and check again for a vacuum leak. Here are the manufacturer's specifications for fuel pressure. If you don't have fuel pressure gauge, most parts stores will lend one to you.

2007 Toyota Corolla L4-1.8L (1ZZ-FE)
Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature
Vehicle Powertrain Management Fuel Delivery and Air Induction Fuel Pump Fuel Pressure Specifications Pressure, Vacuum and Temperature
PRESSURE, VACUUM AND TEMPERATURE
Fuel Pressure .................... 304 to 343 kPa (3.1 to 3.5 kgf/sq.cm, 44 to 50 psi)

Fuel pressure for 5 minutes after the engine has stopped .................... 147 kPa (1.5 kgf/sq.cm, 21 psi) or more

_________________________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 6:30 PM
Tiny
IAN4421974
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Thanks for getting back to me Joe. I actually replaced the PCV valve because I saw oil blowby and burning through the exhaust.

Once I actually replaced the injectors and the purge valve the fuel trim was right where it was supposed to be versus showing a lean condition.

However knucklehead me slipped and shorted my electrical system by. Touching my wrench against both poles simultaneous which also blew out my OBD2 scan tool.

Now the new scan tool doesn't pick up a signal at all and the CEL is on but the car runs smooth and quiet

I was planning on getting a new ECM module and having it calibrated with my VIN.

Would this solve this problem?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 10:25 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,230 POSTS
Hi,

Check the OBD fuse in the instrument panel fuse box. It is a 7.5 amp fuse. Chances are if the scanner was damaged, the fuse is bad.

Take a look at the two pics below for identification and location. In addition to checking the fuse condition, confirm there is power to and from it. Here is a link that you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Friday, April 9th, 2021 AT 10:53 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links