Why does the battery drain down?

That fixed it thanks this site is wonderful!

Hi, my truck has a battery draining problem. if fuse 51 is not unplugged overnight, i risk the chance of my battery being drained in the morning.

Next, had it to Dodge dealership, after technician going through it, determined that the instrument cluster is bad and needs replaced. an expensive $950.00 retail.

I opted out for a used one for $200.00. However, I have changed it over to this one and still have the battery drain problem of 1.0 amp on fuse 51 when i check. it is at a proper range of 0.11 amps when fuse 51 unfused.

Whats the likelihood of having two failed clusters now in row?

So to take step farther. On back of instrument panel when changing it had three connections on back for cluster one (white 26 way), cluster two (grey 16 way) and cluster three (grey 26 way).

After testing both clusters (original and used one), plugging in just various connections. I have determined when I keep cluster three (grey 26 way) unplugged from back of instrument panel, on both of the clusters. the draw on fuse 51 is proper (not the 1 amp draw)..

Does this mean for sure that both instrument panel clusters are bad altogether or maybe an element that cluster three (grey 26 way) controls may be draining and be the problem. Or is it the instrument panel responsible for turning off all power to those elements when turning off vehicle?

Also, one of the elements listed for cluster three connection on this website: http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/7wjkk-dodge-ram-1500-need-wiring-diagram-instrument.html is a horn switch sense. And i currently have a horn problem. it works yes, but i have to keep the horn fuse unplugged in the fuse panel or the horn will constantly honk a continuous honk. Could this be related to the instrument cluster three problem?

I just find it extra hard to believe that i have now tried two instrument clusters and this cluster three (on back of instrument cluster) is the issue with both? Any help or suggestions? I am getting tired of having to unplug fuse 51 every night. :(

Thank you:)

Lets say there is a short in the wiring harness, would this leave for the chance of one of the elements on cluster three connection, having a short itself and not working properly (like door ajar sensors, etc.) Or more so a rip in one of the wires. I have inspected what I can see of the wires, and they seem fine. Is there a good way to check for shorts by testing the actual connector for higher readings? So I assume unless the cluster has an internal short (both clusters that I now have) but the possibility remains that the cluster does not shut everything off, and can have a drain from an element connected to the cluster three? Why would Dodge dealership say it was for sure the cluster, without regarding the fact of poor wires plugged into it. Did they not test wires/connectors or do they know it does not matter? Probably wanted me to buy there pricey cluster and have it installed to only tell me that to make fully work, had to buy more stuff and then not tell me that cluster was okay anyways?

Okay. I just spent today going and getting a third new instrument cluster panel to try in order to hopefully rule it out as problem. And the same thing. Battery draw still on that cluster three connector. So I now totally feel it cannot be the cluster (even though dodge dealership says this) and now feel it must be one of the components that run up that particular wire harness? What is my best way to figure out? Any way to check the connector end for battery draws with multi-meter or anything? How do I find the drain at this point?

Hello. Did you every figure this out? I am having the same issue. Horn too.

Hi, I am having the exact same problem. Any fixes? I finally got the horn to stop blowing by replacing the front control module. (FCM) But I still have the parasitic draw on the battery. Please reply with any ideas.

I forgot to mention that the battery draw is going through fuse 51, which is the instrument cluster and radio fuse. I completely disconnected the cluster and the radio and the draw was still there. If I remove fuse 51, the draw goes from 1.07amps to 0.07amps, which is okay, I think.

I have recently had problems with the battery dying on me after the car sits for 16+ hours approximately. I have checked the alternator and replaced the battery figuring it to be the problem. I know the mileage display stayed on after turning the engine off and figured it turned off when the headlights did. When I get in the truck it was on but I assumed it was automatic after opening the door like some other vehicles out there. It was only when my brother pointed out to me that it was on in the middle of the night even though no one had been in it for hours.

So I am assuming this is partially responsible for the battery being drained. I am assuming there is actually more running than just the display and would really love to avoid taking this to the shop and be charged hourly for electronic diagnostics which is out of control. Any suggestions?

Hi all people that have responded. I originally posted this issue three years ago and am surprised with all that have been contributing and continue to but yet still a 100% solution has not been arrived to yet. Now as for it goes for me, I do not own the vehicle anymore so cannot do any further testing. However, what I did do to bypass for the remaining length of time I owned it was that I ran a wire to fuse panel and attached a switch inside the truck to turn on/off fuse 51 manually when I was finished using truck for the day. It was okay as long as I did not forget to flick the switch but sure beat lifting the hood every evening and pulling out the fuse and then doing the same come next morning. Also, the remote door locks would not work when switch was off (on same fuse) so I had to key myself in the next time using truck. Best of luck to all!

I will check that as soon as I get home here in a bit. One more thing I just noticed was my key can be taken out of the ignition at any time in any position. It can be running and it pulls out. It starts n shuts off fine but was wondering if that could have anything to do w it.

Thanks for responding. First time on here and didn't know how much to donate. Will have more if I can get this solved without spending an assload of money.

Hey everyone. Here is what fixed my problem. It appears that the actual horn pad was the issue. I removed the airbag, and disconnected the horn wire from the back of the airbag. Did this a few months ago. Installed fuse 51 and no battery drain since. Only problem is I do not have a horn. I am on the lookout now for a decent priced airbag assembly or a compete steering wheel assembly. The horn pad cannot be replaced easily at all.
Jimmy

Hi all.
2005 Dodge 3500, Cummins - 1.7 amp parasitic draw on the battery. Opening circuit 51 would solve the problem as above. In my case leaving the amp meter in line for a period of time ( a twenty one count to be precise) and the draw would go from 1.7 amps to.020. After some local, and online searches, I believe the computer modules talk to each other and finally unload the draw. Hoping this may be of value to others.

So I finally had a chance to check the fuse box since my test lamp went missing. I have no fuse box inside the truck. Only under the hood. The #7 fuse is 50 and goes to power seats (which I do not have). I am not sure what you were wanting me to check (what you thought the #7 was). Please let me know what you suggest next

As I posted above some months ago, It is the horn pad that causes this drain. The horn pad/airbag skin can be replaced, but they are approximately $400.00 from Mopar, and unreliable to be purchased used. Please read all the comments above before posting, the answer is indeed contained above. In one of my comments there is a link to a video that shows how to remove/replace the skin, and it also shows you how to disconnect the horn switch connector if you just want to stop the drain and don't want to spend the money for a new horn pad.