CHEVROLET TAHOE GAS PROBLEM
2002 Chevrolet Tahoe • 158,000 miles
Short version, but I will try to describe as much as possible: The only appreciable work I've had done on my Tahoe is replacement of the fuel pump by the dealership approx. 50,000 miles ago when it failed. Several months ago I began experiencing rough idling and difficulty starting. Eventually, my SES light illuminated and I pulled P0300 and P0175 from a code reader. I went through replacing the parts in the chain of potential problems that I felt competent in replacing after searching for information online on what the causes of the codes could be. I replaced the plugs, plug wires, MAF sensor, and all four oxygen sensors. The MAF sensor and the oxygen sensors provided short relief until the symptoms returned, each time with a slight variance (well, more regularity) in the behavior of the rough idling/starting. After searching further, I found info with regards to replacing the fuel pressure regulator. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and all symptoms disappeared (aside of the fact that my starter solenoid keeps sticking now, replacement being put in soon, tired of climbing under my car to hit the starter with a wrench to get it started). My current problem is that I am now getting an intermittent, irregular "vibration" (for lack of a better term) and attendant noise. It sounds like an irregular, intermittent, unpredictable "hum" that occurs in extremely short bursts. Sometimes I do not hear it at all, and I do not hear it while freeway driving - I try to listen for every little noise my car makes. I can hear it in the cabin and outside of the car. I noticed that when idling, the fuel gauge sometimes minutely jumps in concert with the vibration. It appears to be strongest/loudest in the larger (by diameter) of the two lines exending vertically from the fuel rail immediately behind the fpr and thereafter louder along the branch of that particular line that wraps around the rear of the engine to the other side (the "top" one of the two in the picture). It also feels strong in the other branch of the same line that extends under the engine cover to the other side. I've suspected a bad batch of gas began the problems, but I can't be certain. I dont' know if that line is apt for cracks/vaccum leaks, as the intermittent nature of the noise suggests, or clogs, and I don't see or smell any additional fuel coming from the line. I understand the basic mechanic's logic of "replace the part," however, I am more interested in knowing the potential causes and diagnosis along with the remedy, as opposed to just the remedy. These are my first experiences with doing anything with my Tahoe, but I'm decently mechanically inclined and not awed or afraid of working on anything that wouldn't be made infinitely easier or more time effective with a lift - anything that needs a lift more than taking out a fuel filter or the aforementioned oxygen sensors, I'll go to a mechanic - but I'd like to know what to discuss with a mechanic before the need arises to discuss it. I also don't know the names of these parts surrounding or extending from the fuel rail, and I've realized I can waste a lot of time simply trying to find the names of these parts online (I realize I should buy a shop manual). Any help with the cause of the noise would be much appreciated.
October 26, 2012.
October 26, 2012.
I appreciate you writing back. I apologize for the delay in replying, but the delay leads me to another question, if you don't mind. During the past few weeks, I had the starter replaced and I had (what was originally diagnosed as) a slow leak in the gasket around the oil pan, so I had the gasket replaced at the same time as the starter. Afterwards, the oil leak has worsened. There is a second small gasket just above the oil filter (NOT the ring between the filter and the body that you replace with an oil filter regularly), instead it is between what I believe is called the oil filter adapter plate and the block. The plate is shaped kind of like a small Twinkie with bolts at either end. The gasket evidently is problematic on these engines, and my mechanic told me to pick one of the gaskets up and he'd put it in for free. He also told me that my rear main engine seal had perhaps begun leaking (I had not seen it leaking previously). However, my main question has to do with the sudden worsening of the oil leak. I have a hard time believing that the leak behind the adapter plate+the leak from the pan seal went from minimal to 4-5 drops per drive left after my car has been sitting. Maybe he's inept at replacing the gasket? How many miles does it take for a main seal to go, on average? How many mechanic hours would you estimate replacing the main seal would require (2WD)?
Dec 6, 2012.
Dec 6, 2012.
The original gsket for that 'twinkie" is silicone, and it is a complete gasket or should have been so it may be an inept mechanic or not torqued right. so if just a noring was installed it may have caused it but it should be a regular gasket that looked like it had 1 or 2 orings on it and if the oring pealed from the gasket it wold leak. Main bearing seals can last a long time and normally don't leak t your stated mileage. they are all one piece now and the trans has to be pulled to replace it. so figure the cost from that.I'm sending two pics, one of wht the oil seal on side of engine shold look similar to and the other of the crank seal which is aplate witha seal and has a gasket that cold be driping causeing your main seal leak. how ever i'd fix the outside one an d wash the engien and keep an eye on it as it may be some type of trans seal that is leaking from that area. besides if you aren't using more thatn a a quart of oil ever 1000 miles or so don't worry about it unless you are really anal about your vehicle. meaning you want no leaks, etc.
Dec 6, 2012.
Dec 6, 2012.
Smell of gas when driving,not all the time,some times after driving smells of gas coming from engine area,no leak noticed
1 answer • 1996 Oldsmobile Cutlass • 160,000 miles
I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor. Recently, when I put gas in my car, no matter the amount or where I get gas, the car doesnt want to start. If I put my foot on the gas peddle, all the...
3 answers • 2004 Mitsubishi Endeavor • 71,000 miles
My pontiac bonneville ran out of gas about a week ago so ofcourse its been broke down. I tried to crank it long enough to move it a couple of feet and it would crank then start choking ...
1 answer • 2002 Pontiac Bonneville • 150,000 miles
Smell gas fumes when heater is on but not when I have the cool air circulator on. Gas line or heater core?
1 answer • 2000 Oldsmobile Alero • 89,000 miles