car will not start

Hi mikey05,

Even if the O2 sensors were to be faulty, the car would still start.

See if the following link helps.

https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/first_things.htm

https://www.2carpros.com/first_things/car_cranks_but_wont_start.htm

Four cylinder two wheel drive 140,000 miles

Car starts right up. after sitting a while car will start, but in put in gear the idle will go up then it is fine. it feel like it is flooded then it clears up. the car runs great, no check engine light on.

Hi Chile,

If you do not have overheating or coolant loss issues, get the valve clearances checked.

Four cylinder front wheel drive automatic 99,500 miles

my car is trying to turn over, plenty of battery life, just seems like it is not getting gas. the day before, drove in heavy rains and low lying water on highway. any suggestions?

Hi inscores,

Check through the following to see what is missing and let me know.


https://www.2carpros.com/kpages/first_things.htm

Four cylinder front wheel drive manual

car gets fuel, but no spark. ignition coil checks out to be good, module is good, what else is there?

No snapping blue spark continue to troubleshoot the ignition system-power input to the coil/coil packs, coil's resistances, distributor pick-up coil, ignition control module, cam and crank sensors and computer.

My car was running fine and when I went to turn it off, it bogged down. Almost like when a fuel injector is dying or dead. It would start and run though. I had it towed home, and once it got there it would not start anymore. I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter thinking it was a fuel problem. Same no start problem occurred. I then replaced the distributor cap, rotor and ignition coil with the previous result of no start. I know it is getting fuel because there was some on the spark plugs. I also checked for spark, which I am getting. I really do not know what to do from here. Any help would be awesome. Thanks!

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can only be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That is what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the information required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.

I have already done the fuel and spark tests previously. I previously had the check engine light come on for the crankshaft position sensor. However, no check engine lights have come on this time. Could the crankshaft position sensor be causing my issue? Also, I know there is a sensor inside the distributor. Could that sensor go, and there still be spark?

I am not able to tell you anything before you do the testing.

I just finished up all tests. The compression (which I believe I did the test correctly) did not even read on the dial.

That could mean you broke a timing belt.

Turns out it was the timing belt. It did not break, just lost a few teeth. All the TDC marks are lined up, and car is put back together. It runs, but the timing is retarded too much. My issue is that I can only advance the timing so much with the distributor. In order to achieve the proper timing, the distributor is past the slots for the bolts. What could cause this?

four cylinder two wheel drive Automatic 198,000 miles

Hi 2carpros, I do not know I cannot get spark. I have changed key parts in the distributor and replaced with another distributor still no fire. I do not know much of the schematics of this car.

Hi enwigwe, welcome to 2CarPros and thank you for the donation.

Inspect and test the crankshaft position sensor. it is behind the timing belt cover.

Did you disconnect the service connector before checking the timing? If you did not, the computer will chase the timing. If you have disconnected it and still cannot get enough adjustment, it can only mean the timing belt is off a tooth.

my car got stuck in the snow. i left it in the road over night and came back in the morning. when i try starting it, it would crank but not start. i look under the hood and snow came up half way covering the bottom half of the engine. So now all it does is just cranks but will not turn over. i got a new battery, alternator is good, change oil, sparkplugs and wires. also, wondering if i might of flooded anything cause of pressing on the pedal a bit too while trying to start it. Help? thanks

You need to verify what is missing causing the non starting. The following link should be helpful.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

Hi, after installling new speakers and stero and sub wolfer the car will not start and a blinking d4 light that is green is on the dash. car ran fine before messing with rewiring it. help

Check the PGM-FI main relay. Remove it and check the circuit board for cracked solders and re-solder them if necessary.