Mechanics

HELP NEEDED

1986 Jeep CJ7 • 6 cylinder 4WD Manual • 144,000 miles

Every light in my jeep wont work or will my jeep start. I have had the alternater tested and it passed. I also replaced the ground cable. I jumped my jeep and and disconnected the jumpers and it run fine for a short time then the lights go dim before quitting out and then the jeep just dies. So I guess my question is, besides the alternater and ground cable why are my lights not working or will my jeep start with out a jump?
Avatar
Steve b.
February 4, 2011.




OK BUDDY I MADE THIS JUST FOR YOU! I had to kinda use it on this feller.....but it's for a CJ!

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1992-ford-ranger-wont-start

Let me know what's going on!

I can help you with a lot of CJ problems, Just throw 'em out, in this post!

Your Turn

The Medic


CJ MEDEVAC
Feb 4, 2011.
Links have not worked lately

copy and paste this on a new tab if it doesn't "Highlight"

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1992-ford-ranger-wont-start

Let me know if you cannot get to this link

The Medic


CJ MEDEVAC
Feb 4, 2011.
Jeep wont start. Lights don't work. Volts won't even register on my gauge. I just had my alternater tested and that was fine. Someone suggested maybe a bad ground wire. Replaced that. And I have a brand new optima red top battery. It won't start without a jump. And when the jumper cables are hookd up lights are bright and everythings good. As soon as I disconnect the cables the light start dimming down to nothing. Then jeep bogs down and dies. Could it be a bad silonoid?


Tiny
Steve b.
Feb 4, 2011.
Xnostart

Disregard the non-functioning link!

I went over there and got it, Copied, Pasted, and put the pics back in!

OK the 1st part was sorta for other applications, but you will see what I intended for a CJ. Ask me questions, CJ fixin' is my Crusade at this site! I will assist you on a more personal, "HOLD YOUR HAND THRU IT" level than some of the other fellers. See other CJ5 & 7 questions in the forums, you will see the extent I go to assist CJs!

CHECK YOUR FUSES!---YOUR OWNERS MANUAL MAY SHOW YOU LOCATIONS THAT YOU KNEW NOTHING ABOUT!

REMOVE AND REPLACE "SUSPECT" FUSES SEVERAL TIMES--THIS MAY SCRAPE OFF CORROSION AND GIVE THEM BETTER CONTACT!

THIS WILL WORK FOR YOU, PROVIDED THAT YOUR BATTERY IS GOOD---OR YOU CAN BE JUMPED OFF!

REMEMBER "NEW STUFF" CAN BE BAD TOO!

YOUR STARTER MAY BE BAD!

YOUR SOLENOID MAY BE BAD!

Try the stuff below (actions), Even if this isn't your system.

Yours may not look like this, but TAKE STUFF LOOSECLEANTIGHTEN WELLDO NOT JUST PASS IT OFF AS, "IT LOOKS GOOD".

Do not leave off where the Battery cables connect to the Battery clamps! (Not the posts, the "squeeze connections" on the wire) Do them too!

While you are at it, Both ends of Pos cable, Both ends of NEG cable.

If you still have the problem. Follow Battery Positive cable to find the Solenoid.

Clean and tighten the starter connection!

My stuff may be OVERKILL, but at least you will know what everything is and does.

Like my newly made "NELSOMATIC" stuff? I am cyber stupid, and did that! Keeps me from hunt and pecking so much!

Follow POS BATT CABLE, It will end up at MR. SOLENOID, yours may look different, but function is the same

Insure you are hooked up correctly and tight.

Make sure "S" WIRE is attached to the Solenoid

"OLD FORD TYPE" SOLENOID SYSTEM, YOUR ACCES, MAY VARY (This was really intended for Jeep CJ People!)

1) POSITIVE CABLE FROM BATTERY

2) OUT TO STARTER MOTOR

3) ON MY JEEP, THIS GOES TO THE ALTERNATOR

4) THIS FEEDS MY FUSEBOX (ALL OF MY ACCESSORIES)

5) "S" WIRE IS FROM KEY, 12V ONLY WHILE YOU ARE "CRANKING"

THIS WIRE ACTIVATES THE SOLINOID'S ELECTROMAGNET, WHICH IN TURN, CONNECTS---A and B INTERNALLY (ONLY THE 2 LARGE GAUGE CABLES CAN HANDLE THE AMPERAGE THE STARTER "PULLS").

WHEN THE SOLENOID IS ACTIVATED, IT THROWS 12V TO STARTER USING THE LARGE GAUGE CABLES (1) POS FROM BATT--THRU SOLINOID INTERNAL CONNECTION--(2) TO THE STARTER, WHILE KEY IS IN "CRANKING" MODE.

THIS IS THE TOTAL REASON FOR A SOLENOID, BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE PRACTICAL, TO RUN THE HEAVY CABLES TO AND FROM YOUR KEY SWITCH.

6)"I" WIRE (OPTIONAL), FEEDS COIL "FULL 12V", ONLY WHILE "CRANKING", AFTER YOU RELEASE THE KEY, THE COIL REVERTS BACK TO REDUCED VOLTAGE, SUPPLIED BY YOUR KEY IN THE "RUN" POSITION.

7) "SOLENOID MOUNT" GROUND, UNIT MUST HAVE A GOOD GROUND (BATT. TO ENGINE, ENGINE TO FRAME, FRAME TO BODY [ALL MUST CONNECT, SOMEHOW] )

(3 and 4, ON MY JEEP) ARE FUSABLE LINKS, ALL ARE NOT MARKED, MY #3 IS, #4 IS NOT. ITS SORT OF A "WIRE" FUSE.

IF THEY ARE GOOD, TUGGING ON THEM WILL BE JUST LIKE A WIRE, WHEN THEY ARE "BURNED UP", THEY WILL STRETCH OUT LKE A RUBBER BAND.

If your SOLENOID is good---Just not getting a "Signal" from the Key--We can test that too! (Then you will know which direction to chase this problem)

"S" is the wire that activates the Solenoid----we can sorta cheat it!

Regardless what you do to cheat it, You are suppling 12 VOLTS to the "S"('s) terminal on the solenoid. This is momentary as if you are cranking with the key

STAY CLEAR OF MOVING PARTS!IN PARK--OR EMERGENCY BRAKE ON!

I prefer a "Remote Starter Switch"

A Jumper wire momentarily touched or a Screwdriver touching POS BATTERY or POS BATTERY CABLE to the "S" terminal will by-pass the wire from the key

This will for sure let you know whether its a Solenoid problem or a Key ( ignition switch not delivering 12 Volts)

This will start your rig if your key is in the "ON" Position

IF YOU HAVE A CJ 5 OR CJ 7---YOUR WIRES SHOULD BE HOOKED UP, EXACTLY AS MINE ARE, IN THE PICS!

JEEP CJ GUYS!--If you changed your coil and did not get the one that says, "FOR USE WITH EXTERNAL RESISTOR ONLY". You NEED TO GET THAT ONE! You have just "DOUBLED" your resistance (w/ one with a internal resistor), and DO NOT HAVE ENOUGH VOLTS TO MAKE IT FIRE! (Your resistor is a "RESISTANCE WIRE" going to the coil already!)

Please Reply, Good or Bad

THE MEDIC


CJ MEDEVAC
Feb 4, 2011.
Mr. Medic
This all sounds real good. Tomorrow when I have day light im gonna crawl in there and check it all. Thanks for the info man. Ill be in touch.


Tiny
Steve b.
Feb 4, 2011.
Make Absolutely Sure, that NEGATIVE ON YOUR BATTERY IS ON GROUND!---POSITIVE IS ON SOLENOID!They do swap sides on the Battery with POS and NEG, for other vehicle applications. SO ACTUALLY EYEBALL THE SYMBOLS!

Hook up your stuff exactly in my pics above!

Even a New Battery may be dead or bad!

Is it turning over when jumped?

I'll be around another Hour or so, Eastern Zombie Time is fast approaching!

Not Solenoid Itself---May be loose Corroded Connections on it. Or incorrectly connected. If the Jeep starts when Jumped.

All of your accessories, bolt onto the same side of solenoid, so they are connected permanently.A non working solenoid will not start your Jeep, but all accessories should work.

I cannot stress enough, make sure your battery is not hooked up backwards!

Keep info coming---anything, that you may not think is important, recent history. Evil Buddy Factor, etc---Detail is my FRIEND!

The Medic


CJ MEDEVAC
Feb 4, 2011.
Ya once the battery gets enough charge from the jump it will fire up. But once it gets disconnected. The lights ( dash and head lights) dim immediately and volts drop right to nothing and then with in a minute maybe two the jeep starts "burping " then just dies.


Tiny
Steve b.
Feb 4, 2011.
It's rare I'm on with someone at the same time, so I saw your postings after I continued on.

It's gonna be something stupid!---So do what it says about taking everything in question loose, clean then tighten well!NO CHEATING, BY SAYING, "IT LOOKS GOOD". It very well could be your ground wire Battery to Engine, or the clamps that squeeze the wire onto the Terminal clamp, Sometimes I remove the Squeezer and Turn it over, to really bear down on the wire really tight.

See you in the morning!

The Medic


CJ MEDEVAC
Feb 4, 2011.
Look over your alternator, is everything plugged in?

IF YOU WILL JUMP FOR 20 MINUTES OR SO, BEFORE YOU CRANK AND REMOVE THE JUMPER CABLES. IT MAY CHARGE ENOUGH TO PERFORM VOLTAGE TESTING

Test for about 13.5 OR MORE volts while running (ALTERNATOR WOULD BE CHARGING FOR SURE). ABOUT 12VOLTS IF NOT CHARGING, AROUND 12 Volts not running, at the Battery POS and NEG Posts. YOU CANNOT TEST THIS WHILE STILL HOOKED UP WITH JUMPER CABLES. YOU WOULD BE TESTING THE OTHER VEHICLE!

Check your wiring further down from the alternator.

Is anything accidentally touching the alternator?

DID YOU LET WIRES HIT GROUND AND SPARK, WHEN YOU REMOVED THE ALTERNATOR?

DID YOU MAYBE OVER-TIGHTEN WIRES ON REAR OF ALTERNATOR, AND SPIN THE STUD AND POSSIBLY BREAK THE INTERNAL CONNECTION?

REMEMBER, YOU HAVE THE OPTION OF BLAMING YOUR EVIL BUDDY.

BSing DOES NOTHING TO ME, MINE RUNS FINE! YOU MAY JUST BE BSing YOURSELF.I'M HERE TO HELP YOU, NOT CHASE THINGS THAT ARE REALLY NOT WRONG. IF YOU SUSPECT THIS, AUTOZONE AND ADVANCE AUTO WILL TEST YOUR ALTERNATOR FOR FREE!

SORRY, BEEN THAT ROUTE BEFORE, CAUSE SOMEBODY GOT SKEEEERD, I WAS CHASING GHOSTS FOR A WHILE!

We will test further, after you go thru all other steps THROUGHOUT THE POST!

THE MEDIC

I just got a shot of mine, maybe it will help.
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CJ MEDEVAC
Feb 4, 2011.
OK STEVE,

I CANNOT DO WITHOUT A JEEP FIX VERY LONG!

CAN YOU?

HOW'S YOURS DOIN'?

THE MEDIC


CJ MEDEVAC
Feb 5, 2011.

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