1984 Jeep CJ7 Repair Question
Jeep CJ7 Distributor Problem
My CJ7 has been garaged for 5 years and has been a hit and miss on getting it to run consistantly ever since I put it in the garage for non-engine related issues. Please help me get it back on the road and hills where it belongs.
WHAT DOES IT DO OR NOT DO?
I HAVE A LOT OF INFO AND A LOT OF PICS
The engine will crank, gas is reaching the carb, but I can not get a spark from the coil to even hit the distributor. To verify spark I am using an inline spark plug light that I have verified works. I recently replaced the ignition module (had it tested a couple of times to be sure it worked before I left the parts store) tested the ohms on the coil today and it tested within the manufactures specs for both primary and secondary.
JUST SAW YOUR OTHER POSTING
BEEN A LONG TIME---INSURE YOU HAVE A ROTOR BUTTON AND IT TURNS WITH THE ENGINE TURNING
LETS TEST THE DISTRIBUTOR PICK UP
2 TESTS1 IS FOR THE GROUND---ONE IS FOR THE WINDING....SEE MY PICS
YOUR FUEL FILTER NEEDS TO BE TURNED LITTLE T.IT UP (RETURN LINE AT 12 O'CLOCK)
I HAD A DGEV ON MINE BEFORE THE HOLLEY
THIS DIAGRAM IS OF A 1979----HAS A RESISTANCE WIRE---DOES YOURS HAVE ONE AFTER THE MODS?PIC IS OF COIL THAT IS USED WITH A CJ WITH A RESISTANCE WIRE
MY PRESENT '77 CJ 5 ORIGINALLY DID NOT HAVE ONE WITH THE ORIGINAL PRESTOLITE IGNITION---I SWITCHED OVER TO A MOTORCRAFT SYSTEM LIKE YOURS ORIGINALLY HAD......I ADDED A "BALLAST RESISTOR" TO TAKE THE PLACE OF THE RESISTANCE WIRE TO KEEP IT ALL LIKE A '79..................I NOW USE A '79s COIL (SEE PIC)........IF I USED ONE WITH AN INTERNAL RESISTOR I'D HAVE DOUBLE RESISTANCE......T'WOULD BE A NO-GO!
BY THE WAY...........REALLY PERTTY JEEP!
MY '77 AND '46
KEEP ME POSTED AS YOU PROGRESS
THE INFO IN THIS LINK, MIGHT ALSO AID YOU
"A124" WAS WORKING STILL, A FEW DAYS AGO
I tested the continuity for the pick up as you described and the ground was good, the winding however did not show continuity. I am assuming that means I get to try and take advantage of the A124 code (or one similar at a local parts store here) that you mentioned. Thanks for mentioning it, finding was to save money is always helpful. Also thanks for the note on my fuel filter I never would have made that correction if it wasn't pointed out.
I added a picture of what I think may be a ballast resister or it may be the original resister wire which is one of the few remaining original wires that I left in the jeep after I replaced the main wire harness.
ZAT ON THE POSITIVE SID OF THE COIL?
HOW 'BOUT IS THERE ANY INFO WRITTEN ON IT?.....I DO NOT RECOGNIZE THE PART
DID YOU FLOP AND MOVE THE WIRES INTO THE DISTRIBUTOR WHILE YOU WERE TESTING?.....COULD BE A BREAK IN ONE PRIOR TO IT REACHING THE PICK UP
YOU CAN STAB A STRAIGHT PIN INTO THE WIRE ON EITHER SIDE OF IT (OR USE THE COIL TERMINAL AS ONE) AND MEASURE THE VOLTAGE BEFORE AND AFTER IT
THAT IS---GROUND YOUR BLACK VOLTMETER LEAD TO THE BATTERY AND TOUCH THE STRAIGHT PIN WITH THE RED LEAD.......THEN TOUCH THE SAME WIRE (IN THE COIL CONNECTOR) W/ THE RED LEAD. SEE IF THERE IS A VOLTAGE DROP
LOOKING AT THE BLUE WIRE IN THE PIC---I'M GUESSING THAT'S PART OF A "NUTTER BYPASS"?
WHAT IS THE RECENT HISTORY PRIOR TO THE "NO BUST OFF AND RUN" SITUATION.....LIKE PLAYING WITH WIRING, ADD-ONS, OR ANYTHING SINCE IT RAN THE LAST TIME?........HOW DID IT RUN....WHEN IT DID?
I NEED YOU TO PROMISE ME SOMETHING!
I WANT YOU TO HAVE A 1/2? WRENCH HANDY----LIKE SITTING ON THE BATTERY (INSURE YOU CAN TAKE THE POSITIVE TERMINAL LOOSE FAST!!!!!!............OR INSTALL ONE OF THESE
OR THE CHEAP KIND
......AND A FIRE EXTINGUISHER TOO..........WHILE WE MESS WITH THE WIRES
SEE-UNS THAT YOUR WIRING IS LOOSE (MAY BE A GOOD THING AS FAR AS, ONE MIGHT NOT MELT ANOTHER---LIKE THEY WOULD IN A WIRE LOOM
I'VE SEEN OTHER VEHICLES BURN TO THE GROUND......IF ONLY THEY HAD THOUGHT A LITTLE AHEAD (LIKE I'M DOING FOR YOU!)
NEVER SEEN A CJ BURN............I'D HATE TO SEE YOUR TEARS RUNNING DOWN ONE OF YOUR RESPONSES!
I ALMOST CRIED MYSELF, WHEN I CLICKED ON IT!
DID YOU DO THE WIRING THAT I'M SEEING IN YOUR PIC?
DID YOU FULLY UNDERSTAND THE PROMO THING?....OR ANYTHING ELSE I'M SHOVELLING?
HOW'M I DOIN' AS AN INSTRUCTOR?
JUST TO POUND IT IN
I THREW UP, THEN HAD A SEIZURE WHEN I CLICKED ON THIS ONE!
I WILL HAVE TO STOP WATCHING THESE SCARY MOVIES---I THINK I'LL HAVE NIGHTMARES NOW
Those video's were very painful to watch! I narrowly escaped an engine fire in my CJ about a dozen years ago, had a wire melt and it begin to short others out. Since then I have always carried an extinguisher on the roll bars.
I did not flop the wires to the distributor, I only tested the end terminals for continuity like what was pictured. Am I supposed to be checking for continuity only? And now checking for voltage to verify the location of a possible break in the wire?
I replaced the original wire harness about 9 years ago, so yes all the wires you see loose and not in a loom are my doing. I re-wired it as close to the original layout as I could. I DID NOT wire up a "Nutter Bypass." Thought about it, but if caught during an emissions test where I live it's an instant failure.
Since the last time I had it on the road I have added 2 new pig tails the the wiring, everything else electrically speaking has remained the same. 1st - a pig tail from the engine block to the ground wire on the male side of the distributor plug. (the blue wire tied into the black wire pictured over the oil filter in the photo) 2nd - a pig tail from the I post on the starter solenoid to the positive lead on the ignition coil. The jeep ran fine without these additions, but after some long hours reading the schematics out of my factory service manual I noticed the connections were missing.
The only other mods I have done since it last ran was I swapped out the original gas tank to a 21 gal gas tank and replaced all the fuel lines.
The wire/resister? in the photo that I attached is terminated on the negative side of the coil. I have never been able to find any info on it but since it has always been there and the schematics reference one there that's what I figured it was.
The last time I had success with the engine turning over and running on its own was approx 6 months ago. It ran for about a minute then created so much back pressure it shut it's self down and back fired through the carburetor. Timing issue??? Possibly bad fuel/air mix???
I have used many of your earlier troubleshooting posts of other jeeps on this website as a valuable source of information. As an instructor for me, you have been the best I have found in 14 years of searching. My jeep has MANY unanswered issues that I have struggled to find the solution for. If you have the availability I have the ears to listen and hands to work to make this jeep right.
I am following all of what you are "shoveling" out and yes I fully understood your explanation and concept of maximizing the savings available. Get more...pay less.
(And now checking for voltage to verify the location of a possible break in the wire?)
NEGATIVE!!!--CONTINUITY ONLY FOR THE PICK-UP ON THE DISTRIBUTOR....SHAKE/ PUSH/ PULL WHILE DOING SO---SEE IF CONTINUITY FLICKERS ON THE VOLTMETER
YOU CAN ALSO USE A 1.5 - 3 VOLT BATTERY OPERATED "CONTINUITY LIGHT" TO DO THIS *****NOT A 12 VOLT TEST LIGHT!!!*****THIS MIGHT EVEN BE QUICKER TO SEE THAN A DIGITAL VOLTMETER
YOU CAN EVEN "MacGYVER" YOU ONE USING A SMALL FLASH-LIGHT AND SOME JUMPER WIRES
AS FAR AS USING USING 12 VOLTS FOR A TEST (KEY ON)......TEST THE VOLTAGE ON EITHER SIDE OF WHAT TO THINK IS A BALLAST RESISTORIF IT IS, THE VOLTAGE WILL BE LOWER ON THE COIL SIDE OF IT........IF IT'S THE SAME....IT PROBABLY IS SOMETHING ELSE
GOT MORE IN A BIT---HAVE MISSION RIGHT NOW...BACK IN A FEW HOURS
$30 IS $30 ! ! ! IN MY BOOK ANYWAY........ THAT'S LIKE SQUEEZING THE THE TRIGGER ON THE NOZZLE AT GAS STATION, FOR MAYBE A FULL 10 SECONDS!
OK---I JUST SPENT A WHILE TRYING TO 'SPLAIN THE NUTTER vs THE WAY I'VE DONE IT ON OTHER JEEPS, I ONE PIC.......I HOPE I 'SPAINED IT RIGHT!
ALSO WHEN I HAVE SHORTENED THE SALVAGE YARD "FORD WIRE HARNESS" (AS WHEN I HAVE BEEN OUT "PICKING" THE ONES WITH 4 WIRES WERE ALWAYS WAY LONGER THAN FOR THE JEEP'S NEEDS) WHEN I SHORTENED THEM, I USED HEAT SHRINK TUBING AND SOLDERED THE WIRES TOGETHER, BUTT SPLICING, SOMETIMES OVER TIME WILL SHAKE LOOSE AND IS MORE SUSCEPTIBLE TO CORROSION
WHEN YOU RESPOND AGAIN, WITH ASSURANCE YOU WILL NOT LET YOUR JEEP TURN INTO A "CRISPY CRITTER" WE WILL DO A LITTLE "BYPASS JUMPERING" TO SEE IF WE CAN MAKE IT BUST OFF. THEN WE WILL DECIDE WHAT TO DO TO GET IT RUNNING THRU THE NORMAL SYSTEM
HAVE YOU HAD THE DISTRIBUTOR OUT?
WE MAY WANNA START THERE (I'LL GUIDE YOU THRU THE PROCESS, IF YOU DID NOT FULY KNOW, YOU WILL WHEN WE GET DONE!) JUST TO INSURE IT IS ALL LINED UP LIKE IT SHOULD BE
I'M NOT MR. CYBER GUY, I ONLY TOUCHED A KEYBOARD FOR THE 1ST TIME, IN DEC 'O9 WHEN I WAS LAID UP WITH A BROKEN FOOT W/ COMPLICATIONS.........I CONSTANTLY CALLED MY SISTER AND MADE HER COME OVER TO 'SPLAIN STUFF TO ME.
HOW DID YOU COME ACROSS MY STUFF? IS IT POPULAR ON SEARCHES? WILD GUESSING, HOW MANY OF MY JEEP POST ANSWERINGS HAVE YOU GANDERED AT?
LEMME KNOW ABOUT THE DISTRIBUTOR