No cool air from either front or rear vents

Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,159 POSTS
If I am correct, your mode is on a button, and knobs control the driver and passenger temp. It should not take that long for the system to update. It should take minutes. There is an actuator recalibration procedure.

2002 Cadillac Escalade | Avalanche, Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | HVAC | HVAC Systems - Automatic | Diagnostic Information and Procedures | Document ID: 774485

Actuator Recalibration
The HVAC control module will relearn the actuator limits whenever power is disconnected and re-connected to the module.

Use the following steps to perform the calibration update:

Turn OFF the ignition.
Remove the battery positive voltage circuit fuse of the HVAC Control Module.
Important: The scan tool must be disconnected from the vehicle to properly perform the calibration procedure. If a scan tool is connected before this procedure is completed, then new calibration values will not be stored.

Important: Failure to wait 60 seconds will not allow the HVAC control module sufficient time to clear the old calibration values.

Wait 60 seconds.
Install the fuse.
Turn ON the ignition.
Wait 60 seconds before installing a scan tool.

There is also a couple bulletins that may apply.

#04-01-39-007: Loss of HVAC System Mode and/or Temperature Control (Replace HVAC Control Module) - (Jun 17, 2004)

Subject: Loss Of HVAC System Mode and/or Temperature Control (Replace HVAC Control Module)

Models: 2002 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT

1999-2002 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

2002 Chevrolet Avalanche

1999-2002 GMC Denali, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL

2001 GMC Sierra C3

2002 GMC Sierra Denali

with Automatic HVAC System (RPO C68)

Condition
Some customers may comment that they cannot control the HVAC system modes and/or the temperature. These concerns may be intermittent.

Cause
An HVAC control module logic lock-up may be the cause of these conditions.

Correction
Important: Prior to replacing the HVAC control head, review Corporate Bulletin Number 01-01-39-007 (SI Document ID #845221).

Replace the HVAC control module. Refer to the HVAC Control Module Replacement procedure in the HVAC System -- Automatic sub-section of the Service Manual.

Part Information
Part Number
Description

15126606

Condition
Some customers may comment that they cannot control the HVAC system modes and/or the temperature. These concerns may be intermittent.

Cause
There may be poor terminal contact and/or bent terminals in connectors C206 (RPO C68 automatic HVAC controls) or C296 (RPO C60 manual HVAC controls). Excessive tension on the wires due to the wiring harness being misrouted in the instrument panel carrier may cause these conditions.

Correction
Remove the Air Bag fuse.
Disconnect the steering wheel and instrument panel (IP) air bag connectors. Refer to the SIR subsection of the Restraints section of the Service Manual for connector locations.
Remove the IP upper trim pad.
Locate connector C206 (6 cavities) or C296 (8 cavities). The connector is attached to a metal brace on the far right side of the IP carrier above the IP air distributor duct.
Inspect the routing of the wiring harness to the connector. The proper routing of the wiring harness is above the air distributor duct with no tension on the terminals in the connector. The routing is improper if the wiring harness is below the air distributor duct with excessive tension on the terminals in the connector. The excessive tension may cause poor terminal contact, resulting in open circuits, in the connector. The wires may also pull the terminals out of the connector or pull out of the terminal itself.
If the harness is routed properly, contact Technical Assistance for further information.
If the harness is misrouted, remove the connector from the brace.
Disconnect the connector.
Perform a pin drag test on the female terminals.
Inspect the male terminals for straightness.
Inspect the wire to terminal connection to insure that no wires have pulled out of the terminals.
Reroute the wiring harness above the air distributor duct.
Firmly reconnect and reseat the connector.
Reattach the connector to the metal brace.
Reinstall the IP upper trim pad.
Turn Off the ignition and reconnect the steering wheel and IP air bags.
Reinstall the Air Bag fuse.
Turn ON the ignition and verify that the air bag light flashes seven times and goes out.
Clear any diagnostic trouble codes that may have been set.
Verify proper operation of the HVAC system mode and temperature controls.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FJSEPULV
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
2005 escalade rear hvac calibration that works! - On the rear auxiliary heater and air conditioning control module (located under rear panel on passenger side - directly rearward of rear door on passenger side) remove the red and grey connectors, then turn key on. Insert red connector, then insert grey connector. System will start calibration mode. Leave key on (approx. 3 min). This is the only method that worked on my system
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAULH241
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
  • 2002 CADILLAC ESCALADE
  • 130,000 MILES
2002 Escalade. Sometimes, the A/C suddenly stops blowing ice cold air, and starts blowing slightly cool air. Its the same at both the front and rear vents. I put a thermometer in the drivers side vent to track actual temperature coming out of the vent. When it's working, it blows around 45 degree air. When it's "not" working, it blows 78 degree air. Outside temp is always hot when this happens, like 95-105 degrees. But, sometimes it works fine when it very hot outside. I tapped into the A/C compressor wire and ran a small indicator light into the vehicle. So, the light comes on whenever the compressor is running. The compressor DOES run, I can see the clutch engage, a noticeable load hits the engine and the condenser fan turns on. When the vent temp runs up to 78 degrees, the compressor IS running. To eliminate the possibility of a heater valve issue, here's what I did: I turned off the A/C and moved the temperature control knob to the hottest setting. The vent temp went to 150 degrees (hot!). Then, under the hood, I put clamps on the input AND return lines for the heater core. The vent temp almost immediately dropped to 90 degrees, which was the temperature in my garage at the time. Then I drove around for 2 days, same problem. Only slightly cool air on day 1 and icy cold air on day 2.

The vehicle has been to 2 separate shops. Both shops discharged the system, checked for leaks and recharged the system. There were no leaks and the system was not low on freon. Of course, it worked fine while they had the vehicle. Can anybody help. Please?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TY ANDERSON
  • MECHANIC
  • 684 POSTS
Do you have the air conditioner set to auto when the temperature change happens or on manual mode?
Does the above concern happen more frequently when the vehicle is idling and not so much when driving? The manufacture has release a technical service bulletin on the cooling fans not cooling sufficiently when idling for extended period of time such as sitting in traffic.

This guide can help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Please run down this guide and report back.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAULH241
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I always run the system in manual mode. However a few times I've moved both the fan speed switch and the vent selector switch to AUTO. Made no difference. I've also tried just the fan speed switch on AUTO and just the vent selector switch in AUTO. No change in vent temp when I do this.

The problem happens both at idle and at highway speeds. I've always noticed that the A/C isn't as cold at idle on this car. But this problem came on suddenly about 2 months ago while on a road trip. Was driving on the highway and it was 105 degrees outside. Didn't have a thermometer at that time but I assume the vent temp suddenly raised from ice cold to 80 degrees or so. Never touched the controls before the problem happened but I did start trying different settings after the problem started. Suddenly, when we were back in town and about 4 miles from home, it started blowing ice cold air again.

As a troubleshooting step, I've taken the car on the highway when it's acting up. It only very slightly lowers the vent temp (about 4 degrees or so).

Also, I've taken it on the highway when it's working fine. Then I notice a bit more of a drop in the vent temp compared to idle (about 10 degrees), but because its still nice and cold at idle, there's no complaints from the family.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
-2
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TY ANDERSON
  • MECHANIC
  • 684 POSTS
Intermittent issues can be one of the worst diagnostic jobs given in my profession! Obviously the key here is get the a/c system to act up all the time so a proper diagnostic can happen. Unfortunately there are so many variables that can cause the above concern to happen. Is it a mechanical or electrical issue? A Ambient (out side the vehicle) temperature sensor signal can drop out (.-40Deg.) Causing the climate control module to shut down the climate control. A restriction in the refrigerant pipes could be causing a intermittent freeze up (internally). Broken temp blend door sticking open enough to allow hot air through. Temp blend door actuator internal gears worn causing door to stay open. Faulty wiring to a pressure sensor signal or any input or output wiring to control module
I would first try to pull any diagnostic fault codes from the climate control module to see if there are any code or history codes (the code will start with a B [or bxxxx] followed by four numbers). You'll need to get a hold of someone with a factory compatible scan tool to do this and access the module. If there are any codes this would certainly narrow down where to start testing.
As I mentioned before there is a TSB (reference number 01-01-39-004) which describes a loss in a/c cooling and the correction is to add a auxiliary cooling fan to increase air flow through condenser to assist in removing more heat.
Hope this helps you, TY
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+3
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAULH241
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thank you for replying and for the information, it's very much appreciated. Just a few more questions to help me further isolate the issue. You mentions a possible blend door issue. I think I isolated that as a potential issue by clamping the heater hose lines that feed the heater core. I then proved the clamps were working (cutting off ALL hot water to core) by turning the heat to full. There was no heat coming out of the vents. If the blend door was sticking, AND the AC compressor was running, could a faulty blend door still cause this problem given that the heater core's functionality was as removed from the system? Also, since the compressor is always running when the issue is present, I've been assuming a temperature sensor is not to blame. Is this a correct assumption? I think the only control over cooling that the system has is the blend door and the control (on/off only) of the compressor. Is that also a correct assumption? I mean, the climate control system processor can't regulate the orfice tube and can't regulated the amount of pressure supplied by the compressor, can it? When the AC is working well, the compressor cycles on and off regularly while driving around town and the vent temp stays in the low 40's.

Since the AC worked for years with no trouble, and suddenly started having issues, I'm not sure adding the extra fan across the condensor would be the problem. But I'm willing to try. I'll check on the service bulitine

Put gauges on the system today. Around 275 psi high side and 70 psi low side. AC was blowing pretty cold today.

Thank you again.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GROSAS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2000 CADILLAC ESCALADE
Air Conditioning problem
2000 Cadillac Escalade

The air conditioning for the driver's cabin does not get cool, yet the a/c for the backseat and rear cabin does get cool.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,159 POSTS
Sounds like a possible temp door actuator fault, or HVAC control module. Does it change temperature at all, or does it seem stuck in one position?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAULH241
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
I checked today and discovered the Escalade already has that Aux fan installed in front of the condenser. It must have been done by a previous owner. I've always noticed the fan, it's fairly loud. I just never new it was something added later to the vehicle. I always just assumed it came from the factory that way. Do you know how or where I can get a diagram or illustration of the entire AC system?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GROSAS
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
The temperature does not change; it never cools in the front, only in the backseat
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+2
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TY ANDERSON
  • MECHANIC
  • 684 POSTS
I have access to about 26 images for the automatic air condition system. Most of them are wiring diagrams. Is there something specific your looking for?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,159 POSTS
If you have a voltmeter, and know how to use it, you can reference the following fault chart.
Temperature Actuator Inoperative (FRONT)
Step

Action
Value(s)
Yes
No

1
Has the HVAC Air Delivery System Check been performed?
--
Go to Step 2
Go to HVAC Air Delivery System Check

2
Place the ignition switch in the RUN position.
Disconnect the connector at the front temperature door motor.
Connect DMM (volts) between the front temperature door motor connector, cavity 10, and ground.
Is battery voltage present?
--
Go to Step 4
Go to Step 3

3
Locate and repair the open in CKT 141 (BRN) between the IP fuse block and the front mode door motor. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to HVAC Air Delivery System Check
--

4
Connect a DMM (continuity) between the front temperature door motor connector, cavity 7, and ground.

Is continuity present?
--
Go to Step 6
Go to Step 5

5
Locate and repair the open in CKT 150 (BLK) between the front temperature door motor and splice S244. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to HVAC Air Delivery System Check
--

6
Place the ignition switch in the RUN position.
Place the blower switch on the HVAC control module in the LO position.
Make sure that the front blower motor is operating.
Connect a DMM (volts) from the front temperature door motor connector, cavity 8, to ground.
Adjust the position of the temperature control dial while observing the DMM response.
Is the DMM response a smooth, variable voltage?
--
Go to Step 9
Go to Step 7

7
Disconnect connector C3 at the HVAC control module.
Connect a DMM (volts) between pin 8 of the HVAC control module, and ground.
Adjust the position of the temperature control dial while observing the DMM response.
Is the DMM response a smooth, variable voltage?
--
Go to Step 8
Go to Step 10

8
Locate and repair the open or cause of resistance in CKT 733 (LT BLU) between the HVAC control module and the front temperature door motor. Refer to Wiring Repairs in Wiring Systems.

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to HVAC Air Delivery System Check
--

9
Replace the front temperature door motor. Refer to Temperature Actuator Replacement .

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to HVAC Air Delivery System Check
--

10
Replace the HVAC control module. Refer to Control Assembly Replacement .

Is the repair complete?
--
Go to HVAC Air Delivery System Check

I am not sure if the temperature actuator can be accessed in situ, for replacement it shows partial removal of the instrument panel. Here is a view.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/309872_372168_1.jpg



(1) Blower Resistor
(2) Blower Motor
(3) Blower Motor Connectors
(4) C230
(5) C203
(6) C204
(7) Temperature Door Motor
(8) HVAC Plenium
(9) Mode Door Motor
(10) HVAC Wiring Harness
(11) Blower Motor Relay, High

The HVAC control module is the same as the control panel.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BOBBYBIZZAL
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Your problem might not be any of those. I had the same type of problem. My escalade has the digital settings for the AC heat, speed, etc. If yours is a digital type, there is a blower and a blower relay. The blower relay can cause lack of heat, cool air, etc. I changed my blower and relay last summer, no problems since. The relay is up under the passenger side under the cover along with the blower. Easy to change. I recommend YOUTUBE for the proper way to take stuff apart!
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BOBBYBIZZAL
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Blower is about $100 at Advanced auto and the blower relay is a little more. The relay isnt going to look like your old one. Dont worry about it, follow the instructions, you might have to solder a wire yourself. Walmart has soldering guns with solder for ten bucks.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PAULH241
  • MEMBER
  • 5 POSTS
Thanks for that info. My escalade does not have the digital controls, just the regular knobs. Just a quick question.... Did your blower stop working? I mean did you have no air blowing from the vents? If your blower still worked...you may be on to something that I need to look at.

This is such a frustrating problem. Since there's so many issues with the blend doors on the Escalades and Tahoe's, almost everybody jumps straight to that as the problem with my Escalade. But, in my case, it's absolutely not the problem.

The fan/blower works perfect. The air out of the vents It gets hot when I move the knob to red and, 90% of the time, it gets ice cold when I move the knob to blue. But the 10% of the time that it doesn't work is miserable. I mean, it's not blowing hot air, it just blows ever-so-slightly cooled air. Probably like 85* or so. Of course when it's 110 degrees outside slightly cooled air from the vents is not going to do much.

I think the problem may be related to something in rear AC/heater area. I assume with this split system, having two expansion valves and evaporators but only one compressor, if one expansion valve acts up then the entire system pressure could be affected. So I vacuumed down and recharged the system using this guide and it fixed the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/re-charge-an-air-conditioner-system

Please run down this guide to fix it.

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Saturday, August 29th, 2020 AT 11:00 AM (Merged)

Please login or register to post a reply.

Sponsored links