Rear brake does not totally release

Hi and thanks for using 2carpros.com.

If the caliper piston is free and releasing, the slid pins are free and lubricated, the only other thing is the pads are too tight in the caliper mount itself. What I have seen most often is this. The brake pads freeze in place and require a hammer to remove them. Once out, I find the hardware which the pads sit in has been bent inward toward the pad due to rust on the mounting bracket. What I always do is this: Remove hardware, remove caliper mount (Which is the component that holds the pads) then I take a file and remove all rust from the mount where the brake hardware is to be installed. When the pads are then installed into the mounting bracket, they are easy to move.

Also, make sure the caliper piston is releasing. If in fact, the pads are loose, the slid pins are working. Try this test: Safely lift the rear of the vehicle and support it. Have a helper apply the brakes so you cannot turn the tire. Then, have the helper release the brakes. The wheel should turn easily. If that is not the case, then suspect the caliper piston is not operating as designed. Since you already replaced the rubber hoses, they should not be an issue.

Honestly, either the pads are too tight in the mount, the slid pins are not free, or the caliper piston is sticking.

Here are general directions for installing rear pads. Make sure you did not miss anything:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-rear-brake-pads-and-rotors

I attached a couple pictures for your review. The second picture shows the guide pins. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe

When you say you had to pry it off the rotor, is that with the new pads and rotor or the old ones?

Roy

You should not have to do this.

Does the piston pry back easily in the caliper?

Roy

Try cracking the bleeder loose and see if it moves freely.

Roy

Okay, I would replace the caliper.

I suggest replacing both sides as they should be changed in pairs.

Roy