GM used to be famous for including individual terminals in their fuse boxes for things like this. They were labeled "IGN" for a terminal that had twelve volts when the ignition switch was turned on, and "BAT" for a terminal that had twelve volts all the time. If you do not see that, the best way to find the right fuse is to measure the voltage on them. Spade-type fuses have two test points on top for taking those readings. You can use a test light or a voltmeter. Look for one that goes to 0 volts when the ignition switch is off.
Be aware some people strip the wire, twist it around one terminal on the fuse, then install the fuse that way. I do not like that because it is too easy for the strands to poke out and short to something else. Even worse, there are terminals that are meant to slide into the fuse box terminal, then you insert the fuse next to it. Those are bad news because the added thickness can stretch the terminal in the fuse box. When that add-on terminal is removed, a loose terminal is left behind that often causes an intermittent connection.
My preference is to use a special insert with a pig tail wire. You plug in the adapter like you would a fuse. The fuse gets plugged into the adapter. You hook your camera's power wire to the wire on the adapter. Those adapters cost very little compared to the grief and frustration of dealing with an intermittent connection.
Saturday, August 12th, 2017 AT 8:54 PM