Wastegate parameters?

To test it fully you need a scan tool that can step it through the test while you watch the voltages. Without a scan tool you basically apply voltage and see if it moves. This is the OE process. Basically it's - Test it, if it isn't working, replace the turbo assembly. I'm expecting in the next couple of years to just see "Does the engine start? No- Replace engine module"

With CONSULT
Turn ignition switch ON.
On CONSULT screen, select “ENGINE”>>“Active Test”>>“WASTEGATE ACTUATOR”.
Select the following monitor items:
Wastegate ACTUATOR POSITION B1
Wastegate ACTUATOR POSITION B2
Wastegate ACTUATOR POSI SEN B1
Wastegate ACTUATOR POSI SEN B2

Perform the test.
Check that the relationship of the values displayed on the monitor items as the following.
Monitor item

ACTUATOR POSITION B1-B2 (m) SEN B1-B2 (V)
Position Value 0.0073 � 0.0087 3.61 � 4.11
Position Value 0.0033 � 0.0047 2.25 � 2.75

Is the inspection result normal?
YES >>
INSPECTION END
NO >>
Replace turbocharger assembly.

3. CHECK ELECTRIC WASTEGATE CONTROL ACTUATOR (BANK 1)

Without CONSULT
Turn ignition switch OFF.
Disconnect Wastegate control actuator harness connector.
While checking the POSITION SENSOR OUT voltage with an oscilloscope, apply a voltage of 12 V to the positive or negative terminal.
Does ACTUATOR SHAFT visually operate and POSITION SENSOR OUT voltage change?
YES >>
INSPECTION END
NO >>
Replace turbocharger assembly.

The formatting got a bit messed up. However, the basics are that for the voltage range of 2.5-2.75 volts the gate should open.003-.005 then from 3.5-4 volts it should open twice that far. The idea being that it uses PWM and average voltages to control it, not a steady voltage. If you applied say a straight 12 volts it would act like a solenoid, by using PWM they can control the bypass through it like you were turning a volume control.

That is why you use the scan tool. You can set the desired amount and then read what it actually does. The non scan tool test simply tells you that it opens and closes, but not how it actually operates under computer control. You would need a variable DC voltage and a chart telling you the percentage for each voltage step.
A PWM supply is very handy for testing various items on modern vehicles. I've got 3 of them in my toolbox as well as a waveform generator. Getting to the point that you need more electronics than steel tools.

Take a switch in a circuit with a bulb and power source. PWM is basically the ratio between the switch being on or off. Say you have a 12-volt source and turn the switch on and off very rapidly at 50% pulse width, the result would be that the light would see 6 volts. 75% = 9 volts and so on. Most of the devices I have can be sine wave or square wave. The sine wave can mimic the signal from something like a wheel speed sensor as it raises and lowers the overall voltage. The square wave can emulate a cam sensor or active sensor that only turns on and off.
Yep, that is why the scan tool is needed. There are a lot of items that need you to control signals while monitoring them. Looking at the wiring there are no connectors between the turbo and the PCM and monitoring it at the PCM won't show what the valve is actually doing without the translation of the PCM for the signals.

There are two, one for each turbo and they are not replaceable without the complete turbo assembly.

If they are both moving, they are likely not the problem. It is likely an issue in the wiring that sends the position back to the PCM.

Okay, if you actuated it and nothing changed it's either the actuator or the wiring to it. That means you need to get to the wiring and unplug it, then test with a meter in place of the actuator. If you command different opening levels the meter should change if the wiring is okay. If it changes the actuator is suspect. If not it's the wiring. This is the wiring to that gate. Note that the two blue wires are entirely different though.

Yeah a hole in the aid ducts can cause a lot of different errors on a turbo car. You can get replacement ducts made of silicone for many vehicles. Just measure the interior and length of the damaged one, they normally use a conventional hose clamp that you might need.