2002 Volkswagen TDI Won't start

Tiny
DLD2206
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 VOLKSWAGEN TDI
Engine Performance problem
2002 Volkswagen TDI 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 85K miles

My VW Jetta TDA turns over but won't start.

It was getting a P1248 error code (lift sensor) for quite awhile, but it still ran fine. Then one day it wouldn't start.

It has 1/2 tank of diese\ I reqlaced the fuel filter (blead it) and replaced the really dirty fuel injector nozzles. I cracked a fuel injector line and turned the engine over, but very little (if any) fuel came out. Even after a lot of cranking.

Do you think the fuel cutoff solenoid could be bad? How does one test it? What else could it be?

Thanks, Dave
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Friday, December 4th, 2009 AT 11:57 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi DLD2206,

Thank you for the donation.

P1248 is a fault with the cold start injector system and can cause the non starting.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_P1248Jetta02_1.jpg



To diagnose the problem, diagnostic tools VAG1551 or VAG 1552 with cable VAG1551/3 is required.
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Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 11:35 AM
Tiny
DLD2206
  • MEMBER
I'm sorry, I didn't give enough information about the problem.

I already went through those items as per ALLDATA autorepair subscription service and didn't find anything wrong. However, there wasn't anything listed on ALLDATA about how to test the fuel cutoff solenoid system. That is the information I'm looking for.

Thanks for your help.
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Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 1:01 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
I am not able to find any simple diagnostic procedure fot the fuel cut valve testing from our database and the only diagnostic procedures are with the aid of VAG testers.

Fuel cut solenoids works under the principle of ignition switch ON, power is supplied to the solenoid and it cliccks open to allow fuel to pass through. When ignition switch is turned off, the solenoid closes to cut the fuel supply to stop the engine.

With ignition switch turned on, unplug and plug in the valve wire connector and if it clicks, it is working. If it does not click, test for battery voltage at the wire harness connector. If battery voltage is present and the solenoid does not work, it is faulty.
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Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 2:00 PM
Tiny
DLD2206
  • MEMBER
Thanks, that is what I was looking for. I tested it, and it seemed to be OK, but it still won't start. Any other ideas?

Here's what I've done to date:
-Cutoff solenoid clicks and 9VDC is delivered to it when starting (also tried jumpering it directly to battery.)
- replaced fuel filter, and fuel is going into the pump
- A little fuel is coming out of the injector line when cranking
- Cold start valve measures 14 ohms (12-20 limit)
- Lift sensor 89 ohms (90-120 limit)
- Fuses OK
- It's hard to check the wires as they don't match the wiring diagram. For instance, terminal 9 should go to socket 79 on my 80-pin connector, but there isn't any wire in that socket! They're not shorted or grounded though.
- ALLDATA says it is time to replace the ECM, but I it often says that and it's a pretty expensive step.

Thanks, Dave
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Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi Dave,

This system is designed with minimal testings possible with basic test tools and to avoid costly errors, it would be best to get the appropriate test equipment plugged in to perform a complete test to confirm error before getting the ECM.

I went through the database again but could not find any information for checking/testing the fuel pump without the aid of diagnostic equipments.

If the battery is not fully charged and the cranking speed is slower than normal, get a jumper to aid in the cranking. Sometimes diesel engines requires some fast cranking to get it started after the engine is cold and has been left sitting over extended periods.

I will check with my fellow technicians to see if they can provide any additional insight to this.
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Saturday, December 5th, 2009 AT 11:51 PM
Tiny
DLD2206
  • MEMBER
Thanks for thinking it over, but I was able to get the car started. Here's what it came down to (I think) --

The fuel injectors were really clogged up. I changed them and it fixed the problem. However, I didn't bleed the fuel lines enough before tightening up the injector lines. Once I bled them again, it started. The car has a lot more power now and doesn't smoke nearly as much.

The P1248 code has also disappeared, so maybe the clogged fuel nozzles were the culprit in that problem too?

Thanks for your suggestions. Have a good weekend.

Dave
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Sunday, December 6th, 2009 AT 10:39 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Thank you for the input and glad that you have resolved the problem.

Injectors seldom cloggs and it is surprising that they did. Under such circumstances, the fuel pump might require servicing if the problem reoccurs.

Have a great day.
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Monday, December 7th, 2009 AT 5:26 AM

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