Volkswagen Jetta Will not start

Tiny
SHAMOUS
  • 2000 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA

Engine Mechanical problem
Volkswagen Jetta 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 139767 miles

I have a 2000 volkswagen Jetta GL with a 2.0L AEG that had the timing belt brake. I started the vehicle to go to the store and it started up and then squealed and then died. I started to crank it for about 4-5 seconds and realized something was not right by the way that it was turning over. I pulled the top half of the timing cover and the belt was shredded. I pulled of the crank pulley and the rest of the timing cover and found a bolt in the bottom of it. It shredded the belt and destroyed the crank gear. So I replaced the crank gear and the belt now it will not start. Ok so there is the background now the problem, the timing marks are dead on and it does not start. I pulled all 4 spark plugs and do not see any visual damage to the valves or pistons. The cam Sensor behind the pulley looks good with no visible signs of damage. Any thoughts or advise would be greatly appreciated.
Is there any way that it could be 180 degree's out on the cam side? Just trying to see if there is something that I am overlooking?
I wish I could make a donation but I lost my job last Monday. Can I make a donation without a question at a later date?

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 10:46 PM

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Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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Without pulling the head you cant tell if the valves were smashed without doing a compression test.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:11 PM
Tiny
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I did attempt to do a compression test but I feel that my compression tester may have to be replaced since it did not 0 out it is rather old. I am going to try to get a new one tommorrow. I did pull the spark plugs and you can see the intake valve as you turn the crank by hand and nothing seems to be bent, but it is true that although they do not look damaged they may be. That would be the only thing that it could be. When I do the compression test what should the cylinders be at roughly.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:22 PM
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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Should be around 110 lowest considering the mileage.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:24 PM
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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As for the compression test, do your 1st test dry. Test all cylinders as you would normally. 2nd test, dump about a cap full of oil into each cyl. This is called a wet test. Helps eliminate worn rings. Being a 4 cyl, I assume after you tensioned the belt, you barred the engine over 1 turn, then verified your marks right? They dont have much room for error. As for the 1 turn on the crank, that is necessary in order to verify cam timing. Its 1 turn crankshaft= 2 camshaft rotations.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:30 PM
Tiny
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Is it possible for the vehicle to still run if it had bad valves in 1 cylinder? I can not afford to have the head reworked at his time? I do prefer to fix it right but this is the only vehicle I have at this time.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:32 PM
Tiny
SHAMOUS
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If I am understanding this right there may also be a possibility that I could be 180 degrees out on my cam timing right? Could this lead to a false compression reading if the cam timing is off? Would there be some valves partially open?

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:40 PM
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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Keep in mind this is a 4 cyl. Usually they will run extremely rough then stall if only 3 cyls fire, but ive seen them not start even with a bad coil. As they are individual and fire each plug. These cars are tempermental. They need denso, or ngk platinum plugs. The car was never over heated right? The head will warp because its aluminum. That gets pricey. Reman heads run around 900$

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:41 PM
Tiny
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I have only had the car for about a month and as far as I no the car has never overheated. If I remeber correctly they have a plastic impeller on the water pump right? I appreciate the responces Thanks.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:49 PM
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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As I recall you are correct on the plastic impeller. If it was a 1.8, the waterpump wouldnt have been run off the t. Belt. Regardless, timing is crucial. I work on these all the time, and I catch my self even off a tooth now and again. Your timing marks may be right on from the start, but when u tension the belt, and rotate the crank a full turn, you may find your off a tooth. Verify your correct by rotating the engine. And let me know the results on that compression test.

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 12:01 AM
Tiny
SHAMOUS
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I will double check them, is there a possiblity that I could be off on the cam timing meaning 180 out?

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 12:04 AM
Tiny
MADMIKE1735
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You cant be off 180. As once the crank is lined up that means cyl 1 is at tdc. From there, you set your cam mark. If anything your off a tooth. Ive done it myself. Did you rotate the engine to verify your marks?

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 12:15 AM
Tiny
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I am pretty sure that I did, it has been a couple of days since I put on the new belt. Thanks again for the responces.

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 12:20 AM
Tiny
VWTECH83
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The last post put about a 1.8t not being driven off timing belt is incorrect. I work for VW and every 2000 1.8 T or 2.0 has a waterpump with plastic impellar driven off of timing belt. Normally when a timing belt breaks on a 2.0 it is not an interference motor. It is still possible for valves to bend but you would have had to been doing 75 mph or faster when it broke. It sounds like you may be 180 degrees out. Remove cylinder 1 spark plug and with timing marks lined up cylinder 1 should be at whats called TDC (top dead center) you can use a screwdriver to check if piston is at top most position. If it isnt then you are 180 out. Rotate cam 180 and recheck.

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 1:36 PM
Tiny
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The timing belt broke when I started it up. I put the crank at top dead center and the timing marks line up on the cam sprocket. The intake valve look closed when I p ulled out the spark plug I can not see anything except the top of the piston. It Still does not start. It attemped to try but that was about it. I even attempted a compression test dry and wet. I think that I need a new compression tester because either way it still red 0. I am at a loss I am sure that there is something that I am overlooking.

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 5:23 PM
Tiny
VWTECH83
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Try checking compression on all 4 cylinders with a known good compression gauge and if numbers are still reading 0. Then you have a bent intake or exhaust valve. If this is the case then you unfortunately will need a new or reman. Cylinder head or would need to replace valves and valve seals and springs.

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Thursday, September 9th, 2010 AT 8:49 AM
Tiny
BWARRIOR
  • 2003 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
  • MERGED

It will crank but will not start. This happened intermittently over a few week period of time. I had gone out and messed with it multiple times and got it to start

multiple times. However, now it won't start almost no matter what I try. Before when I got it to start, I had cleaned out the spark plugs which had a lot of oil.

Twice I got it to start this way. Then I changed the valve cover gasket. A few days later it wouldn't start again, so I changed the spark plugs and a few days later

it wouldn't start. I then changed the fuel pressure regulator and got it to start 3 times before it once again wouldn't start. I seem to have spark but possibly not

fuel. Although starting fluid in the air intake has also not worked.

I had no codes before the when it wasn't starting but I now have 10 check engine codes. I also had an 11th code but it has gone away on its own. I listed them all

below and in order. The 11th code is listed as well.

1) p0261 - Cylinder 1 Injector Circuit Low
2) p0267 - Cylinder 3 Injector Circuit Low
3) p0270 - Cylinder 4 Injector Circuit Low
4) p0264 - Cylinder 2 Injector Circuit Low

5) P0445 - Evaporative Emission System Purge Control Valve Circuit Shorted

6) P0037 - Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 2

7) P0418 - Secondary Air Injector Relay A Malfunction

8) P0010 - Intake (A) Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit / Open (Bank 1)

9) P0414 - Secondary Air Injection Switching Valve A Circuit Shorted

10) P0141 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 2

11) (this code is no longer showing) P2401 - Evaporative Emission System Leak Detection Pump Control Circuit Low

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
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Hi Bwarrior,

IT sounds like the problem is ignition related because it wouldn't start on starting fluid, the oil on the spark plug is concerning but with fresh plugs it should start, have you replaced the crank angle sensor lately? This is a very common problem and would cause the problems you are describing. Here is a more in depth guide on what to look for in the order of popularity, please get back to me on what you find.

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

http://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-valve-cover-gasket

Also, clear all codes and re-gather once the engine is running, this will tell us which codes are more prevalent.

Best, Ken

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
F4I_GUY
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The problem is the FP relay located in the underdash relay carrier. Very common problem with your vehicle.

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
F4I_GUY
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The image that I have added is what you will see once you remove the driver side lower panel that is held on by 3 torx screws. You'll have to look up into the dash. In this picture the relay has the number "409" on it. 9/10 the FP relay has "409" on it, the odd time, it may have 372 stamped instead. Either way the location is the 4th relay on the bottom row as shown in the picture. Replace it and clear the faults.

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 11:07 AM
Tiny
BWARRIOR
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Thank you, I have ordered a new fuel pump relay and I will install it next week when it arrives.

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Tuesday, December 20th, 2016 AT 11:07 AM

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