2000 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA WILL NOT START

  • Tiny
  • Shamous
  • 2000 Volkswagen Jetta

Engine Mechanical problem
2000 Volkswagen Jetta 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 139767 miles

I have a 2000 volkswagon Jetta GL with a 2.0L AEG that had the timing belt brake. I started the vehicle to go to the store and it started up and then squealed and then died. I started to crank it for about 4-5 seconds and realized somthing was not right by the way that itwas turning over. I pulled the top half of the timing cover and the belt was shreaded. I pulled of the crank pulley and the rest of the timing cover and found a bolt in the bottom of it. It shreaded the belt and destroyed the crank gear. So I replaced the crank gear and the belt now it will not start. Ok so there is the background now the problem, the timing marks are dead on and it does not start. I pulled all 4 spark plugs and do not see any visual damge to the valves or pistons. The cam Sensor behind the pulley looks good with no visable signs of damage. Any thoughts or advise would be greatly appreciated.
Is there any way that it could be 180 degree's out on the cam side? Just trying to see if there is something that I am overlooking?
I wish I could make a donation but I lost my job last Monday. Can I make a donation without a question at a later date?

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 10:46 PM

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  • Tiny
  • madmike1735
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Without pulling the head you cant tell if the valves were smashed without doing a compression test.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:11 PM
  • Tiny
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I did attempt to do a compression test but I feel that my compression tester may have to be replaced since it did not 0 out it is rather old. I am going to try to get a new one tommorrow. I did pull the spark plugs and you can see the intake valve as you turn the crank by hand and nothing seems to be bent, but it is true that although they do not look damaged they may be. That would be the only thing that it could be. When I do the compression test what should the cylinders be at roughly.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:22 PM
  • Tiny
  • madmike1735
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Should be around 110 lowest considering the mileage.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:24 PM
  • Tiny
  • madmike1735
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As for the compression test, do your 1st test dry. Test all cylinders as you would normally. 2nd test, dump about a cap full of oil into each cyl. This is called a wet test. Helps eliminate worn rings. Being a 4 cyl, I assume after you tensioned the belt, you barred the engine over 1 turn, then verified your marks right? They dont have much room for error. As for the 1 turn on the crank, that is necessary in order to verify cam timing. Its 1 turn crankshaft= 2 camshaft rotations.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:30 PM
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Is it possible for the vehicle to still run if it had bad valves in 1 cylinder? I can not afford to have the head reworked at his time? I do prefer to fix it right but this is the only vehicle I have at this time.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:32 PM
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If I am understanding this right there may also be a possibility that I could be 180 degrees out on my cam timing right? Could this lead to a false compression reading if the cam timing is off? Would there be some valves partially open?

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:40 PM
  • Tiny
  • madmike1735
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Keep in mind this is a 4 cyl. Usually they will run extremely rough then stall if only 3 cyls fire, but ive seen them not start even with a bad coil. As they are individual and fire each plug. These cars are tempermental. They need denso, or ngk platinum plugs. The car was never over heated right? The head will warp because its aluminum. That gets pricey. Reman heads run around 900$

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:41 PM
  • Tiny
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I have only had the car for about a month and as far as I no the car has never overheated. If I remeber correctly they have a plastic impeller on the water pump right? I appreciate the responces Thanks.

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Tuesday, September 7th, 2010 AT 11:49 PM
  • Tiny
  • madmike1735
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As I recall you are correct on the plastic impeller. If it was a 1.8, the waterpump wouldnt have been run off the t. Belt. Regardless, timing is crucial. I work on these all the time, and I catch my self even off a tooth now and again. Your timing marks may be right on from the start, but when u tension the belt, and rotate the crank a full turn, you may find your off a tooth. Verify your correct by rotating the engine. And let me know the results on that compression test.

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 12:01 AM
  • Tiny
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I will double check them, is there a possiblity that I could be off on the cam timing meaning 180 out?

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Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 AT 12:04 AM

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