1998 Volkswagen Jetta Need Help!

Tiny
VDUB98
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 VOLKSWAGEN JETTA
Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Volkswagen Jetta 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic

OK, so. I have this really weird problem going on. First of all last year I had really bad idle, it turn out that the throttle body went bad. I got a new one, did adaptation. When I test drove it, it was fine until it got at its normal temperature. I noticed that the idle didnt went all the way down to were it suppose to be at. I put it in Park and the noticed that the idle needle started to act a little bit crazy because it went up to 1400 RPMs and it like misfired, then went down to 800 and so on. Then I got this code P0341 which is the cam sensor. That got replaced last year also, the timing is aligned properly. Could it be a bad distributor cap or rotor? Thanks
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Monday, January 18th, 2010 AT 4:50 PM

18 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok lets check this code out. The codes seems to mean that there may not be power to the sensor. So unplug the sensor now using a digital multi meter check voltage between the to outer terms on the harness coming into the sensor not on the sensor itself ok, do this with the key on voltage should be 9 to 14 volts. Let me know what you find and we will go from there.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2010 AT 10:36 AM
Tiny
VDUB98
  • MEMBER
It gave me 10 volts. I forgot to mention, after that part when I said I parked the car and try to start the car again. The throttle body wasnt making its alignment anymore. It usually makes a sound when I put it in the ignition on. Also, I noticed the altrernator is making noise, maybe the bearing are going bad inside. I was planning on taking it to oreilly and get it tested today. The engine block was replaced about more than a year ago. Did a full tune up. I accidentaly broke a plug wire, had to buy the whole set. I replaced all the plug wires with the new ones I got to see if that would fix the problem. But it didnt. The battery was replaced last year too.
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Wednesday, January 20th, 2010 AT 1:32 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
OK once the alternator is checked then we will go from there. If you would check the cap and rotor see how it looks inside. What you look for is carbon tracking, this will look like hair line crackes within the cap. As for the rotor look for burning through the center and carbon build up on the contact end. Let me know how it goes. If all here is good then we will be checking more into the code. The voltage is good but we will need to make sure that the rest of the circuit is working as that it what the code is about anyway.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2010 AT 9:58 AM
Tiny
VDUB98
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I got the alternator tested today and it failed. Do you think I should get a new alternator or there might something else wrong too? I actually did borrowed an alternator from a friend which he has a 95 Golf and is the same part like mine. It was installed in my car and that code disappeared. I replaced the distributor cap and rotor about a week ago, just to see if that was the problem, but nothing happen still the same. The problem that I have now is that is not letting me adapt the throttle body again. I bought this VAG-COM system which is for VWs. Well I cant get rid of this code P1580 which is the throttle actuator malfunction. I erase the code then go to adaptation procedures for the throttle body it says error. I go back and check for codes and there it is again. Someone told me that code will not go away if the battery is really low. Is that true?
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Thursday, January 21st, 2010 AT 11:05 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
First off if the alternator is bad then it needs to be replaced so that the battery will keep charged and everthing will get the proper voltage. Now it looks like the throttle body code is a voltage problem not the throttle body itself. So with the code now lets do the testing needed to check that. I need you to unplug the throttle body control then use pic below, check voltage between term 4 and 7 you should have 4 to 6 volts. If this checkes good then we will need to check voltages at sockets at the ECM. Let me know what you find and we will take it from there.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2010 AT 9:48 AM
Tiny
VDUB98
  • MEMBER
I got the throttle body problem solved, I could finally make an adaptation. Let's go back to the cam sensor problem thing because the light came on again. I even got a new alternator and install. Is making the same thing still. It sounds like if there was a misfire. I dont know whatelse to check for. What should I do?Sorry about my car problem because is long.
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Friday, January 22nd, 2010 AT 11:23 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
What code do you have now? Have you checked the cap, rotor, wires and plugs? Get back to me with what you can and we will see what we do.
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Saturday, January 23rd, 2010 AT 8:46 AM
Tiny
VDUB98
  • MEMBER
The code is P0341. I forgot to mention yesterday that the new distributor I got, came with a new dist. Cap and rotor. What I did last week is bought a new dist. Cap and rotor. But it gives me the code. When I put the other rotor that came with the new distributor it gives me the code really quick after I start the car. When I put the new one I got the code wont show up til the next time I start up the car. Maybe, the rotor I got is bad also. Is there a way to test those distributors if they r bad or good? Could a bad alternator do damage to any of my components?
Thanks, have a nice weeeknd!
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Saturday, January 23rd, 2010 AT 2:06 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok this is still the cam shaft sensor code. I now need you to check ohms between term 1 at the cam shaft sensor (see pic below) and term number 56 at the ECM should only be 5 ohms. Then do the same between 2 at the cam sensor and term 44 at the ecm. Should also be 5 ohms. Let me know what you find.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_tn_1.jpg

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Monday, January 25th, 2010 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
VDUB98
  • MEMBER
I did what told me to and the wires showed good resistance between them. It came to my mind to check the ignition coil, so I found out that the secondary ignition coil is giving me 4.15 K ohms and the normal should be between 3-4 K ohms. Is that good been a little high? I even unplugged the ignition coil from everything and it gave me that resistance been high on the terminals of the coil.
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Thursday, January 28th, 2010 AT 2:21 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
OK plug wires should be 4.8 to 7.2 ohms. Coil should be Primary checked between term 1 and 15 = .5 to 1.5 ohms and secondary checked between terms 4 and 15 = 2.5 to 4 ohms. Here is the pic for the term locations.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_193.jpg

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Friday, January 29th, 2010 AT 10:26 AM
Tiny
VDUB98
  • MEMBER
How do you check for resistance between plug wires? The primary gave 0.7 which is ok, but the secondary now reads 4.26K ohms which is more than what it was yesterday. I was checking it for cracks and yeah did found one that is kind of big. So maybe moisture is getting in there and causing it to fail.
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Friday, January 29th, 2010 AT 1:09 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok if the coil is cracked it could be arcing to ground and not to the plugs. As for checking spark plug wires you remove them ohm them. Let me know what you find.
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Saturday, January 30th, 2010 AT 8:48 AM
Tiny
VDUB98
  • MEMBER
I checked for resistance on the plug wire and they were good. They couldnt be so bad because I bought a new set last month and replaced them, spark plugs are about a year old. I bought those Bosch Platinum +4. I'm running out of options. The only thing I have is the ignition coil having a big straight crack from one side to the other. I'm going to start looking for prices, so I can get one. Do you think that the ignition coild everytime it got hot, it caused those bad symptoms?
Thanks
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010 AT 8:02 PM
Tiny
VDUB98
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How many Ohms should the main plug wire that goes from the ignition coild to the distributor cap have? Is giving me 1.9 Ohms. Is that good?
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010 AT 8:12 PM
Tiny
VDUB98
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That was in K Ohms. In normal Ohms I got 1756 Ohms.
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Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010 AT 8:34 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok with a crack in the coil that has to be replaced as this can and will cause problems. As for the wires they look ok.
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Thursday, February 4th, 2010 AT 8:57 AM
Tiny
VDUB98
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I just wanted to let you know, that my car has no more flu symptoms. Thank u soo much!
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Tuesday, February 9th, 2010 AT 3:27 PM

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