2007 Dodge Ram



April, 23, 2014 AT 4:50 PM

Hey I have been trying to solve this problem on a 2007 dodge ram 1500 trx4 my front right wheel tugs and pulls when I apply my brakes gently and shakes when apply harder at high speeds. The pattern is always consistent and I have done alot of work myself to fix this problem and im still stumped. I changed my rotors twice with pads lower control arm bushings, ball joints, and sway bar link. I just put new tires on the car which improved the feel and ride but still has the same tugging when brakes are applied. It only comes from the front passenger wheel when the brakes are applied. The wheel hubs seem fine and make no noise and the calipers retract with ease when changing the pads seems to be alot of people out there with the same problem with no success. Thanks for any advice


3 Answers



April, 23, 2014 AT 9:07 PM

I don't know if this applies yet to a '07 model, but the majority of what you described was real common in the '90s, and actually had a pretty easy fix. It could be found at the end of a 32 page service bulletin. The problem always occurred right after a recent brake job was done, with perfectly fine and normal service procedures, but it involved rotors that were as little as.007" difference in thickness or had a different speed of cut on the brake lathe. To identify if a rotor is causing the pull, switch them from side to side and see if the pull goes the other way.

I'm racing a dying laptop battery. I'll elaborate more tomorrow.



April, 26, 2014 AT 4:59 AM

Thanks for the response I just find it hard to believe that to be the problem after changing the rotors and pads twice with no change what so ever. I had a response on a different site that maybe only the lead piston is working properly and dogging into the rotor and to change the caliper. But everytime I do pass the wear seems pretty even and its such a constant chugging at slow speeds and shaking at fast I'm thinking a warped hub might be to blame. But it only happens while braking so im stumped let me know what you think maybe Sunday I'll try to flip the rotors. That ks alot



April, 26, 2014 AT 12:21 PM

Again, this goes back to the '90s, but it may still apply. After doing brake work for many years, we had never run into this as a cause for a brake pull, but now it has become an issue on other truck brands as well.

The service bulletin had us check that matching calipers were in use. There was 80 mm pistons and 88 mm pistons, and standard and low-drag calipers, so there were four possibilities for each wheel. You could tell if the pistons were the same diameter by measuring the width of the calipers' mounting pads.

Next, if you have the suspension system with four control arms that go from the firewall to the front axle, be sure they all have the same type of rubber bushings. That's not a concern unless one was replaced. There's standard bushings and heavy-duty bushings. That has nothing to do with the size or weight of the truck. Look at the lip on the metal sleeves around each bushing. One style has two small indentations or notches that are real easy to feel and see. If you find that on one bushing, you must find them on all eight; (all four control arms).

That same suspension system uses a "track bar" that mounts on the frame on the driver's side and the front axle on the passenger side. That used to cause a lot of steering wander, and you were to inspect it as a possible cause for a brake pull. The newer trucks have an improved design that doesn't cause much trouble.

If you find mismatched control arms or calipers, you'll have a brake pull all the time. Problems caused by the rotors don't show up until they reach a certain temperature, typically after a half dozen fairly hard stops in a short period of time. When the rotors are different thicknesses, they heat up at different rates, and that changes the coefficient of friction of the brake linings. You'll have a number of stops with absolutely no hint of a brake pull, then the next stop you'll end up on the sidewalk! The steering wheel will get tugged right out of your hand.

I've owned cars before that had almost 0.125" difference in the thickness of the front rotors, and never had a braking problem. That's why it was so hard to believe such a tiny difference now can make such a big problem. I was involved with two lemon-law buybacks. Both involved trucks that had recently had a normal and proper brake job done. On the first one, after spending two days checking everything, it came down to 0.020" difference in the rotor thicknesses. Swapping them side-to-side made the brake pull go the other way. On the second truck there was just 0.007" difference. That's like two sheets of paper on a rotor that's over an inch thick. In both cases I machined the thinner rotor to take a light cut, then machined the second one to exactly the same thickness, AND, ... Exactly the same speed of cut. Cutting them on the lathe leaves grooves like on a record, and more or fewer grooves means more or less points of contact, and more or less friction and heat buildup.

One thing that does not correlate with this service bulletin is the pedal pulsation you mentioned. That relates to a caliper that isn't fully releasing. The first place I'd look is the metal brackets in the middle of the rubber flex hoses. They anchor the hose to the axle. If one of those brackets got hit, or if rust builds up inside the crimp, it will constrict the hose. You'll get fluid pressure through there to apply the brake, but that fluid won't be able to release immediately on its own. You'll feel a wobble in the steering wheel.

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