Trouble shifting

Tiny
JIMMYCHEESEBURGER
  • MEMBER
  • 1978 JEEP CJ5
  • 4.2L
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 50,000 MILES
I am having trouble shifting. Initially, the problem only presented itself after the vehicle had been running for more than thirty minutes, but now it is near impossible to even get it into gear immediately after starting. I recently had to replace the bell crank housing, but I do not think that the two are related.
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Wednesday, October 12th, 2016 AT 2:36 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
How recent was the bell housing?

Insured the pivot ball was in place and the fork stayed on top if it throughout installation?

What route did you take to remove the bell housing?

How much driving since you did this?

Describe better, what kinda symptoms it is having.

Do you have a helper?

The Medic
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Wednesday, October 12th, 2016 AT 6:24 PM
Tiny
JIMMYCHEESEBURGER
  • MEMBER
The bell housing was replaced 2 months ago and this problem worsened since then. I replaced the bell housing because it actually fell apart while driving, so I didn't have to remove much. I did not ensure the pivot ball was in place and am not sure where that part is or should be. I drove to work twice after replacing the bell housing, and it seemed to work just fine until the Jeep warmed up (after 30 minutes or so), then it became sticky and then impossible to shift. No helper at this time. Thanks.
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Sunday, October 30th, 2016 AT 2:39 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Go to this link.

To "online repair manual"

http://www.morris4x4center.com/knowledge-base/#service

Choose the closest year to yours that they list. Clutches in CJs are pretty much the same '76-'86 so you can look at 'em all in that section. (there may be new/different pics in some of the manuals.

This may aid you in the correct procedures. I don't know if you had a good reference or if you are just winging it?

BIG QUESTION- Did you separate the transfer case from the transmission while doing any of your fixin'?

I have a '77 and a '46

Your turn

The Medic

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Sunday, October 30th, 2016 AT 3:01 PM
Tiny
JIMMYCHEESEBURGER
  • MEMBER
I'm definitely winging it, haha. I have no mechanical experience and I YouTube or forum everything I do. I should correct something that I said earlier. I did not replace the bell crank housing, simply the bell crank linkage. The picture below shows everything that I replaced. Thanks for getting me on track.
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Sunday, October 30th, 2016 AT 3:54 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
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Did you replace everything in your pic?

The Medic
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Monday, October 31st, 2016 AT 3:25 PM
Tiny
JIMMYCHEESEBURGER
  • MEMBER
Yes.
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Tuesday, November 1st, 2016 AT 8:02 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I'm assuming it's assembled correctly

How much Free-Play (like floppy free play) do you have in the pedal before you start feeling pressure (beginning to lift the pressure plate)

Do you have no play at all, the pedal is hard to push thru the entire travel?

Did you get it all figgered out?

The Medic
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Tuesday, November 1st, 2016 AT 5:54 PM
Tiny
JIMMYCHEESEBURGER
  • MEMBER
Sorry for the delayed response, I'm in the military and have been very busy.

I've adjusted it so that I have little to no free-play. The pedal is pretty even throughout the entire travel.
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Sunday, November 20th, 2016 AT 10:53 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
The clutch linkages tend to "saw" into each other over time.

The rod may have a deep groove cut into it, top or bottom end, or the bell crank holes may be mega elongated. Over time they will saw away at each other and get harder and harder to push. Eventually one or the other will saw thru and the linkage will fail!

Normally this happens in stopped traffic, suddenly the clutch pedal hits the floor, and you are eagerly on the brake to avoid smacking the guy in front of you!

Must keep good linkages, keep 'em greased and oiled. Or break down, like me, and modify the links with real bearings at the pivots.

You should have "1 inch" of free play in the pedal before you feel the throwout bearing contact the pressure plate.

Got my 1st (bought all by myself) CJ-5, a '77 w/ 304. When I got in 1st Ranger Battalion back in early '83, Prior to that I had a '76 hand-me-down abused old beater given to me.

Had nothing else for a daily driver since. Total 6 CJ-5s and a Willys.

I presently have the '77 CJ-5 and '46 Willys that I bought in '91, I'm not in the "Find the Limitations Mode" anymore, as with the other 5 I once had, I tend to care for these 2 like a Mother Hen (all the well still knowing their full capabilities!)

I liked the paint scheme on the 1st '77 so well, I pretty much duplicated it on my present '77. I've made many upgrades to this '77, It's pretty much like a '79 w/ swapping heater/ vent systems out (better system) Upgrading to Motorcraft Ignition (as in a '79) and many other upgrades including a homemade extra heat heater ("The Sahara Breeze!")

You DID NOT separate the tranny from the transfer case? Nor did anyone else?

Bellcrank on backwards?

The Medic

pics/ 1st '77/ same Jeep (back when Rangers only wore the black beret!)/ Next '79 (semi got the last one)/ Present '77, ("Mr. Jeep")/ Present '46 Willys ("Willy")/ No title necessary!/ Next 3, few shots of my mancave!/ Adjust clutch linkage/

The Medic
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Sunday, November 20th, 2016 AT 12:22 PM
Tiny
JIMMYCHEESEBURGER
  • MEMBER
I have never separated the tranny from the transfer case as long as I've had it and it ran fine prior to the linkage breaking.

As far as whether the bellcrank is backwards, I don't think so. I simply pulled the old one and put in the new one the same way.

When the clutch linkage is properly assembled should the clutch fork be depressed towards the transmission at all? As it sits now, the adjuster rod is as small as it gets and it is depressing the clutch fork about half way.

Just to mention once again, the vehicle changes gears fine within the first ten minutes or so. Once it warms up is when I encounter the problem. It becomes more difficult to get into gear and then it becomes impossible.

Lastly, it's a small world. I grew up in 1st Ranger Battalion myself. I've since moved on to Special Forces.
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Sunday, November 20th, 2016 AT 3:36 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
'Nuther assumption

You have checked and filled ALL of the driveline

Tranny/ Transfer Case/ Front Diff/ Rear Diff

With

90 wt/ or 80W-90?

Open "Fill Plugs" fill until the juice starts running back out of the fill hole (I give mine 2 additional squirts) then quickly install the fill plug.

Do not use any other fluids such as oil stabilizer, which makes things too thick and unable to sling around.

If you have a Trak-Loc rear diff (positive traction) You must also use a friction modifier mixed in with the gear oil, this lubricates the clutches in the differential. (You may have a regular ole standard diff like mine)

Pic 1)100% Rebuilding my tranny, Fill plug hole on side (plug is removed)

PIC 2) GIVEN

PIC 3) ABOUT $840 ALL TRANNY INTERNALS, LESS CASE, FILL/ DRAIN PLUGS, OUTPUT GEAR TO TRANSFER CASE. "Dews" in there for size reference, they were not wasted!

PIC 4/5) $5 FILL PUMP FROM ADVANCE AUTO PARTS, MAKES THINGS EZer

Hooah! Airland! I mean Airborne! I was a Battallion Stallion in Hardrock Charlie for 4 long, hard years. Back and feet now paying for it.

Need more pics or info?

Maybe tranny is low on juice, parts are expanding w/ heat?

1 inch of pedal play should have everything adjusted right.

The Medic (actually nearly 3 years of RTOn'!)
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Sunday, November 20th, 2016 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
JIMMYCHEESEBURGER
  • MEMBER
This whole time I've wondered if it's a fluid issue. Except for the pictures you sent, I don't know how to check the entire driveline for fluid levels. If you can give me some further guidance, I'll try that over this long weekend.
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Tuesday, November 22nd, 2016 AT 3:50 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Here's the transfer case (pic below)

I'll take a few pics tomorrow of the front and rear differential fill plugs.

Sorta twisted my back yesterday, skipped work today and laid around the house. Feels 90% better.

Boss,

Do you have a FM-JRM

Jeep Repair Manual? Like a Chilton's or Haynes'?

If you wanna catch up on PM, it might be time to drain the fluids and replenish with new.

Let's see some pics of yours and under the hood too, then we can see what we're a working on!

I'll continue to help you figger out what and where you need it (like Trak-Loc rear end or not)

I drew a horizontal line about where the fluid level is inside/ I have also replaced most of the original square drain plugs with hex plugs (sockets/ wrenches are EZer for me to use) My whole Jeep is more "User Friendly" than it ever was!

The Medic
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Tuesday, November 22nd, 2016 AT 5:40 PM

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