This sounds like the hydraulics may not be moving the throw-out bearing for the clutch to work. Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder under the hood.
Try this, with the engine off, put the shifter in first gear. Then push the clutch down and try starting the motor. Be careful, as it may lurch forward.
If it tries to move forward, then it is the hydraulics.
I attached below a YouTube video of the replacement for the slave and the master cylinder.
1. Remove battery and battery tray assembly.
2. Disconnect clutch pressure line from master cylinder.
3. Using needle nose locking pliers, or equivalent, clamp off brake fluid feed line to clutch master cylinder.
4. Disengage clamp, then remove brake fluid feed hose from clutch master cylinder.
5. From inside vehicle, remove master cylinder retaining nut.
6. From inside engine compartment, remove master cylinder retaining nut, then master cylinder.
7. Align clutch pedal push rod, then install master cylinder. Torque retaining nuts to 14-19 ft lb.
8. Connect master cylinder pressure line, then torque pressure line retaining nut to 10-16 ft lb.
9. Install hose and clamp assembly, then battery and tray.
10. Bleed air from system.
NOTE: The clutch hydraulic system must be bled whenever the pressure line is disconnected. The fluid in the reservoir must be maintained at the 3/4 level or higher during air bleeding.
1. Remove bleeder cap from slave cylinder and attach vinyl hose to bleeder screw. Place other end of hose in container.
2. Slowly pump clutch pedal several times.
3. With clutch pedal depressed, loosen bleeder screw to release trapped air.
4. Tighten bleeder screw.
5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 until no air bubbles appear in fluid.
1. Disconnect pressure line from slave cylinder, then plug line to prevent leakage.
2. Remove slave cylinder retaining bolts, then cylinder.
3. Reverse procedure to install. Torque slave cylinder retaining bolts to 12-17 ft lb.
Tuesday, March 30th, 2021 AT 5:41 AM