1995 Toyota Camry crazy idle after cleaning air idle valve

Tiny
GBAXLEY
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 118,000 MILES
Hi,
I have the recurring problem in my 95 camry of stalling after starting on cold days. Removing the air idle control valve from under the throttle body and cleaning always fixes the problem.

I repeated this again today, with the addition of taking apart the wrong end of the valve. By wrong end I mean that to turn the shaft of the valve the end with the solonoid needs to be removed, but I took off the other end.

I also tried to clean a bit inside the fuel/air chamber, or whatever it is, that is just past the throttle body with a clean rag and throttle body spray cleaner.

Anyway, after putting it all back together, with all tubes connected, I turned the engine over and now its got crazy idle. In park or neutral, it revs to 1800, can cycles from there to 2000 and back about every two or three seconds. In drive it's better. It will drop to 1100 when first coasting, then kick up to 1500.

I've cleaned this thing before with no trouble. The valve spun freely after cleaning. Did I re-assemble the valve incorrectly somehow? Wreck whatever sensor seems to be attached just past the throttle body?

thanks, I need help!

I don't know what a typical donation is, but I'll donate more if you can help
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Sunday, February 15th, 2009 AT 6:44 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi gbaxley,

Thank you for the donation.

Looks like you have installed or adjusted the valve wrongly. The IAC is a non serviceable part and it has been factory adjusted to open at a certain angle when power supply is not available.

With wire harness disconnected the idling rpm should be 1400.

Did you install the spring in the correct direction and revert the tightening screw to the original position?
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Monday, February 16th, 2009 AT 9:38 AM
Tiny
GBAXLEY
  • MEMBER
Hi,
Well, I just couldn't live without trying to fix the darn thing, so I took it all apart again and sure enough I had rotated the valve shaft 180 degrees from where it should be. It's easy to tell, because there are two metal flaps of different sizes that can be visible when looking at the assembled valve. The bigger flap is the one that should be seen, not the smaller one. After assembly, the idle was back to normal.

I did notice that what I think is the opening for the EGR valve (it has part number 25620-74240 on the top) was totally gummed up with carbonized particles and gooey junk. I cleaned it best I could without removing it, which looked like a real chore.

How hard is it to remove? There is a large copper tube that connects this piece to the block, and it looked like maybe removing the compresson nut from the engine block would be easier than the nut just under what I think is the EGR valve.

Should I just replace, or is cleaning OK?

What are symptoms that I might notice if this part is totally jammed with gunk?

Thanks a ton,
Greg
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Monday, February 16th, 2009 AT 10:33 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
Hi Greg,

Well done to the IAC job.

The Check Engine Lamp would show if there is any malfunction in the system and that includes clogging of the system. If there is no CEL showing a malfunction in the system, there is no necessity to replace the part.

The pipe from exhaust to EGR would not clog fully unless the EGR is clogged preventing exhaust gas from passing through. Removal is at times difficult as the nuts tends to stick at exhaust side due to heat. Some rust remover sprayed and allowed to soak prior to unloosening of the nut helps.

Apart form the CEL showing, there would not be any noticeable abnormalities except you would fail emission tests.
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Monday, February 16th, 2009 AT 1:20 PM

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