1993 Toyota Camry 4 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 145000 miles
I hope that someone can help as my issue on my 93' Camry LE V4 is similar.
Long story short. My instrument panel lights were out, I found that the fuse controlling these lights had blown. During the process of replacing the fuse, the ignition was turned to the " ON" position; thusly causing a spark blowing the new fuse when plugged in. I plugged in a new fuse. Without the Brain fart blunder I now have a new issue.
With all previous issues resolved with the new fuse, I now have no rear lights or license plate lights when the headlights are on. When the brake is applied, ALL tail lights illuminate as normal (no license plate lights of course), when I let off the brake, the rear main tail lights go out and the only light in the rear comes from the red markers at the extreme corners.
After troubleshooting at the local mechanic, the lamp failure box in the trunk was burned out (opened the yellow box and one wire was burned completely) I purchased a new one on Ebay for $24.00 (all numbers matched perfectly) I installed it and it didnÃ¢ï¿½ï¿½t fix the issue. When I unplugged the module, it was smelling slightly burnt. I opened it and nothing was burnt out but I purchased another just to make sure.
What do I need to do to resolve this? Anything I need to do before plugging in the new module? Any help is greatly appreciated.
I cannot pass inspection without license plate lights or the main rear lights. DonÃ¢ï¿½ï¿½t think I have burned wires as I would assume the lights wouldnÃ¢ï¿½ï¿½t work at all.
The license lights circuit runs parallel with the light failure sensor so to test the circuit, DO NOT install the sensor first.
If the fuse still blows without the sensor, then the problem is either from the license lights or the front markers. Do you have any damage to front of vehicle?
The taillight fuse supplies power to all the interior illumination lights as well. I would suggest unplugging the front marker lights, license lights and test. If the fuse does not blow, then plug in 1 light at a time till the fuse blows and that is the light that you should check.
March, 24, 2009 AT 12:22 PM
I have no damage to the front of the vehicle and all exterior and interior lights are working.
I didn't check the license plate lights, could this be the issue?
I have the blown lamp sensor still in place, what do I need to do prior to plugging in the new sensor?
I don't understand how the bulb that contains the brake and run light only works when the brake is applied; the bulb is getting power why wont the run lights work?
" If the fuse still blows without the sensor, then the problem is either from the license lights or the front markers". So do I need to remove the lamp sensor, turn on the lights, turn off the power and check the fuse?
If the fuse doesn't blow, what lights are you referring to that I plug in 1 light at a time?
Just confused and need to get this resolved.
Any additional assistance is so appreciated.
Thank you so much
March, 25, 2009 AT 11:12 AM
You should check the license the license plate bulbs, they could be dorroded and shorting.
The brake light bulb is actually a 2 circuit light bulb,
you would notice 2 filaments in the bulb. They work independent of each other except share a common ground.
Are you sure the other exterior lights and interior illumination lights are working? You mentioned the fuse blowing.
Remove the sensor, replace the fuse and turn on the lights ( without sensor).
If fuse blows, there is a shorting in the circuit. Unplug front side lights and license light sockets. Replace fuse, turn switch on, check if fuse blows. If no, plug in license light socket, one first, check for fuse blowing. If no, continue with other. If fuse does not blow, continue plugging in front side lamps, left, check, then right. When a light socket is plugged in and fuse blows, that is the item you should check for shorting.
If fuse does not blow, check the taillight bulbs. Remove bulbs and check for dislodged wire terminals inside bulb socket.