1991 Toyota Camry Misfires at upper end of RPM range (every

Tiny
ARTALASKA1988
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 TOYOTA CAMRY
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 110,000 MILES
Starts fine and idles OK. At normal operating temperature, I put the car in 1st gear and take off (takes off fine on a flat surface). It will run fine with plenty of power until I get to the high end of the RPM band range it will then cut out (it doesn't pop or spit, sputter or jump - it just falls on it's face). If I let off the gas pedal, the engine starts running fine again. If I depress the gas pedal quickly, it will cut out again; however, if I very S-L-O-W-L-Y allow the RPMs to creap through the band range, it winds the RPMs without problems. Until I get to the next gear and the symptoms start over again. This will persist through all gears (1-5). Starting out on a hill is another problem. I have to double-clutch to get the RPMs up to get going and 'feather' the gas to keep it there. I end up running high RPMs at lower gears to keep the momentum. At highway speeds, an attempt to climb even a small hill requires me to downshift to a lower gear and again keep the RPMs very high.
I've replaced the Plugs, wires and cap combo, rotor, fuel filter, air filter and checked the dash codes (scans fine - no findings). I've also inspected the vacuum lines and electrical connections as well as reading hundreds of blogs and speaking with the local parts guys - the following is a list of remedies recommended: Idle Speed/Air Control Valve (ISC/IAC); throttle body carbon deposits; Mass Air Flow (MAF)(I assume this is a sensor?); Air Intake Sensor (IAS); Ignition Coil. Yes, I've added Heat, bought expensive gas, added Lucas gas additive/injector cleaner and have driven the miles necessary to make a difference - no change. One fellow even told me it was the battery - not enough amperage (I doubted this one). I understand the process of elimination, but the above recommendations can be quite expensive -that's why I've gladly donated to your site and look forward to your advice. Needing help in Alaska.
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Sunday, December 9th, 2007 AT 8:03 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Do a pressure test on the fuel system, it sounds like a fuel pump is dying.
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Monday, December 10th, 2007 AT 2:33 AM
Tiny
ARTALASKA1988
  • MEMBER
Sorry to take so long - military stuff.
Didn't have the tools to pressure test so paid (ER Automotive) guys to test it. They ask if they could keep it an extra day (here comes the K-Y). They called me the next day - it was running fine and I could come in and pay the bill. The total bill was for the pressure test was $42.00. The bill for resetting the timing: ZERO.
Mxxxx Muffler had replaced the timing belt just before I started to have problems with it. The timing was adjusted ATDC instead of BTDC - the car would run, but just just until the high band of the RPM range was reached - then it would cut out.
Mad as heck at MM, yes, but pleased to find a bunch of guys that are real mechanics and gearheads that wouldn't back off the problem. They actually worked on it between other jobs as they were stumped.
By the way, they agreed with your initial diagnosis exactly. In fact, the 4 of them overheard me telling the service writer the symptoms and all chimed in and guessed it to be the fuel pump and agreed to the pressure check first. Great minds do think alike!
Thanks again for the speedy service. It was a pleasure to donate to your site and I will return.
Art. Eagle River, Alaska
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Friday, February 8th, 2008 AT 12:11 AM
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
Thanks for the update Art. Glad you found some GOOD mechanics!
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Friday, February 8th, 2008 AT 8:45 AM

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