Engine coolant temperature gauge?

Tiny
CKGUNTER53
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET LUMINA
  • 3.1L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 232,507 MILES
My temperature gauge quit working is this a blown fuse or a sensor? Low coolant light stays on even though it is not low on coolant. The one time it got hot the red light came on even though gauge was just just jumping around jumping bean at the time before it just stopped completely.
Saturday, October 27th, 2018 AT 1:48 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 42,787 POSTS
Hello,

The coolant level sensor is bad located in the coolant reservoir here is a guide to help you replace it.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-reservoir-replacement

It also sound like the engine coolant temperature sensor has gone bad which this guide will walk you through with diagrams below to show you on your car.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/coolant-temperature-sensor-cts-replacement

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens. If this doesn't fix it I would replace the dash cluster
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Sunday, October 28th, 2018 AT 5:33 PM
Tiny
BAC512
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
  • 2001 CHEVROLET LUMINA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 221,000 MILES
The driver insist the car overheats. I have not yet seen it overheat. When I drive the car the temperature gauge generally stays at the VERY low end of normal operating temperature. Occasionally with hard acceleration, it'll hit the middle of normal operating temperature, the fans will kick on, and it'll drop back to the very low end of normal operating temperature. It's kind of cool out, so thats probably keeping it cool, but when it hits mid temp and the fans come on, it drops fairly quick (like maybe a minute) so I wouldn't think the heat outside would cause such problems?
I don't think the radiator is the original/correct radiator for the car. Is any of this normal? I've never seen a car run that cold (still puts out heat if you turn the heater on)
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • MECHANIC
  • 31,938 POSTS
Hi there,

Normally the only way to get an engine to run over cool is to have a broken or missing thermostat, what makes you think that the radiator is not original?

Mark (mhpautos)
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BAC512
  • MEMBER
  • 16 POSTS
Yeah, I was kinda thinking it was a thermostat stuck open (or missing), but wanted to check if there were any other possible reasons. I don't think the radiator is the original, because the stop cock on the radiator drain doesn't fit in side the bottom 'tray' (the support under the bottom.)
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EKATHRYN
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1999 CHEVROLET LUMINA
  • 57,000 MILES
No warning lights come on, but sometimes the gauge goes pretty high. I am suspicious that my mechanic hasn't been checking my fluids when I get my oil changed. I wonder if it's just that my coolant is low. How do I check that and top it off? Thanks!
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PROMECHANIC
  • MECHANIC
  • 536 POSTS
You need to top off your coolant first of all. If there is not a cap on the radiator then you need to find the coolant reservoir. You can find where it is using your owners manual. It will have a picture of it.
It sounds like you probably have a leak in your cooling system. You need to have a pressure test done on your cooling system if you can't find the leak just by looking.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:44 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KAREN SARGENT
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 CHEVROLET LUMINA
Other Category problem
1996 Chevy Lumina V6 Wheel Drive Type unknown Automatic 150000 miles

We recently bought this 96 Lumina APV minivan. It immediately showed that it needed a new water pump then it ran fine (no more running hot).

Two weeks later I took it for an oil change and got 6 blocks down the road and the temp gauge heads for the hot side. Our mechanic discovered that the radiator fan isn't coming on right and says there is nothing they could have done to cause this when performing the oil change... Do you agree?

He has ruled out all the common suspicions (thermostat, etc) and tells me he thinks it's the car computer. He knows we can't afford a new computer and is suggesting that he can make a mechanical fix to bypass the computer.

Do you have a recommendation?

Also, can you tell me why the temp gauge rests in the 3/4 (toward hot) position while the engine is cold? I suspect that the temp gauge is not accurate - can you tell me how to test that?

I know I have asked alot of questions but maybe you can help me to help my mechanic - he has spent several hours already and I'm wondering if I should find another mechanic.

Thanks,
Karen
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
POET042005
  • MECHANIC
  • 134 POSTS
Your van has a temp gauge sensor you need to have this sensor tested to see if its working correctly. You could do this yourself but itsounds like your not to sure how to go about it so I would find another mechanic. The electric fan has a relay that is to trigger the fan after the motor reaches a certain temp. Either the fan is bad or the relay is.

You'll need a mechanic to perform electrical diagnosis on the fans relay as well as the fan it self to see if they are receiving power and or current at pacific points (ground and hot).

If this helps let us no if not let us no any way were here to help.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GREENCHEVYMALIBU
  • MEMBER
  • 230 POSTS
  • 1993 CHEVROLET LUMINA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
Temp gauge doesn't work. Why?

My temp gauge fluctuates from normal temp to hot all the time or it just says its hot all the time even when I just turn on the car. I changed the temp sensor in the engine twice. Then I looked at the pigtail. The wires were burned so I got a new pigtail and soldered it in. It read the right temp for a couple minuates then it shot to overheating again. I'm completely lost at this point. What else could be doing this? Also my primary fan won't turn on but my a/c fan does. I tested the primary fan motor and it works. But it won't turn on when it needs to.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ERNEST CLARK
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,730 POSTS
First make sure there isn't a lot of corrosion around the sensor where it threads into the block. I've seen times where this will prevent a good ground. Also double check the wires. Because if they burned in one spot, they could've burned in a spot you didn't see. Also, the fan won't come on because the temp switch isn't keeping the computer informed.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EDITH SILVERS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1993 CHEVROLET LUMINA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 22,800 MILES
The temperature gauge has stopped functioning. Could this be because of a bad thermostat or a heat sensor?

If heat sensor, where is this located and how hard is it to replace?

Thanks

updated 7-27-09
We finally found the heat sensor. When it was removed one of the prongs broke off. We thought it has broken off inside the wiring connector because there was a silver wire inside one of the connection holes - we tried to remove this wire and determined it was not the broken piece. However, now the wiring harness connector is now damaged. How difficult is it to replace the wiring harness or connector?
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Hello, the sensor should be, driverside, high-up on the backside of block. Look for a green wire, it should go to the connector. The sensor is a ground for the gage, you can take the connector loose, use a jumper ground, turn the key on. I don't like to peg an analog gage, have a helper watch the needle. If it doesn't move, there may be something wrong with the gage on the dash.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:45 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/170934_temp_sensor_connector_1.jpg



Your local parts store should be able to order a connector for you. The picture above came from an online partsbook, temp sending unit connector. In a bind I have cut the connector off and spliced the wire/s together, probably not the proper procedure. Any connection should be water proof.
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Thursday, January 21st, 2021 AT 4:45 PM (Merged)

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