Drive Train Axles Bearings problem
1998 Subaru Forester 4 cyl All Wheel Drive Automatic 170000 miles
I have a noise in the back of this forester when I make a left hand turn. I feels like a bad CV joint, but I have replaced both rear shafts and new bearings in wheel hubs. Could this be my rear differetial? Its devinatly coming from the back end.
Does these automatic transmissions have a filter to change when you change the fluid?
Is this a chattery or binding feeling?
Various possibilities on this.
Least expensive and basic is to verify that the tire circumference is within 1/4" of each other. If not replace tires to correct problem. If that checks out, and you have changed the fluid, add a bottle of GM's posi additive and then drive it in tight circles in both directions.
The transmission rear extension housing and clutch packs were an issue on them.
Remove the transfer clutch from the case and check the two seals on the transfer clutch. The seals tend to flatten out causing this condition.
The fluid on the tranny gets changed every 30,000 but the filter is only replaced on a rebuild or if it out for any other service, but not done as maintenance.
November, 11, 2009 AT 6:14 AM
The tires are brand new on the car and are the same size.
It feels like a binding feeling when you turn.
To remove the rear extension housing for the trasfer clutch do I have to remove the transmission?Or is it just the back of the trans where the drive shaft comes out for the back differential.
Thanks again you have been great Help
November, 11, 2009 AT 6:24 AM
Transmission does not have to come out, I'll see if I can get a r and r procedure.
IF it were mine, I'd try the posi additive first. Unless you have already. It can be surprising what an additive can do.
November, 11, 2009 AT 7:01 AM
I will try the additive first
Thanks again you have been a great help
P.S. I will be a waiting your instuctions if you can find them Thanks on the rear transfer clutch housing
November, 11, 2009 AT 9:10 AM
Additive goes in the tranny btw.
This may also be of help.
Find the fuse cavity labeled " FWD", should be on the right strut tower. Install a 20A fuse and drive the car. This will eliminate hydraulic pressure in the transfer clutch. This " disables" the rear drive If the binding feeling stops, the transfer clutch is worn and will need replaced.
( if you temporarily disconnect the Transmission Module the failsafe will put max pressure in the transfer clutch)
I haven't found an r and r yet.
November, 11, 2009 AT 3:56 PM
When you say btw, I don't know all the abbreviated terms. Would I put the additive in the gear box of the trans or where the dextron goes Or the rear Differential
I will have to find the fuse labeled fwd and try that. I know the fuse block is on the drivers side, do you mean there is a seperate fuse for that fwd clutch? I realy appreciate your help. I won't be able to try any of these tricks until another week. I work as a engineer abourd a tug in NY harbor and won't be home for another week. I work on big diesels, but starting to get into alot of electtronics. Nothing is easy to trouble shoot any more.
Thanks again, you guys are good
November, 11, 2009 AT 6:53 PM
BTW-By the Way.
LOL.I share your pain of the communication. Try on facebook and play one of the zynga games lol.
LOL-lots of laughs. Lol.
Sorry couldn't resist.
It goes in the transmission. And I would suggest draining the fluid and refilling with atf + 4 in addition to the additive.
I think it is at the right strut tower.
IF the problem stops you may need the transmission tail shaft housing w/ the clutch packs.
Troubleshooting really can be a heavy burden. The public has no idea what we are up against. &Quot; Just look at a car" has taken on a whole new meaning.
Hey another thought. When did this happen? Did you do the recent parts changing because of the symptom or did they occur after the part replacement?
November, 11, 2009 AT 7:43 PM
Thanks again for the info,
this has been a on going thing since I got the car, I thought I was fixing the problem with replacing the rear wheel bearings and shafts because it feels like a bad cv joint.
Now with the fuse for the clutch by putting a 20 amp fuse what is this actualy doing for me, do you think the old fuse is blown or am replacing with a larger fuse to see if it is working?
I have a hard time communicating on im with my son with all these abbreviations, not up to speed yet.
One more thing where can I pick up that GM additive at a auto store or do I have to go to a GM dealer?
November, 12, 2009 AT 4:50 AM
I'll avoid any acronyms.
I don't believe there is a fuse in it and it is for testing purposes as I understand it.
You can probably use any limited slip additive, but I would use the GM additive right from the dealer.
November, 12, 2009 AT 8:22 AM
Thanks for the info Bob & Ken,
I will let you know how it goes in a week when I get home and change the trans fluid and add the additive and then do the rear clutch test with the fuse.