Step by step for rack and pinion r/r?

Tiny
BENJAMINTHERERRIBLE
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 ACURA TL
  • 3.2L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 165,000 MILES
Need a guide/writeup on replacing a rack and pinion for 2002 tl-s please
Saturday, January 10th, 2026 AT 11:12 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 54,956 POSTS
Yep, you will need to lift the car up onto jack stands and remove the front wheels. Here is a video to help you with that:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLFn_bMkZc0

Also, disconnect the battery before you begin.

Tools / supplies

Floor jack + jack stands (or lift)
Wheel chocks
Metric sockets/wrenches (10-19mm common), extensions, swivels
Line wrenches for power steering lines (highly recommended)
Torque wrench
Tie-rod end puller or pickle fork
Pry bar, needle nose pliers
Drain pan, rags, brake cleaner
Paint pen - scribe (for marking column joint + tie-rod length)
New rack & pinion (verify Type-S vs base), new inner/outer tie rods if needed
New rack bushings (if not included)
New cotter pins
Power steering fluid: Honda/Acura PSF (use OEM type fluid)
Optional but smart: new pressure/return line O-rings / sealing washers (depends on rack/line style)

Plan on an alignment afterward. Even if you match tie-rod length perfectly, it’ll be close-but not “done.”

If your replacement rack is reman, confirm:

Correct for Type-S (steering ratio/valving can differ)
Includes/doesn’t include inner tie rods
Line ports match (pressure/return orientation)

Keep the steering wheel straight and don’t spin the wheel with the column disconnected (you can damage the SRS clock spring).

Once the job is done:

Fill reservoir with Honda/Acura PSF to the MAX line.
With front wheels off the ground:
Engine OFF: slowly turn wheel lock-to-lock: 10-15 times.
Keep topping off fluid as air purges.
Start engine and let it idle.
Turn wheel slowly left/right (don’t hold at lock).
Watch for foaming/bubbles. If it foams:
Shut off, let sit 10-15 minutes, repeat.
Verify fluid level and look for leaks at rack line fittings.

These images should help as well.

Check out the images (below). Please upload an image or a short video in your response, so I can see what's going on.
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Monday, January 12th, 2026 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
BENJAMINTHERERRIBLE
  • MEMBER
  • 63 POSTS
Unfortunately ive already started disassembly so I cant exactly depict whats happening with a video, but I can tell you I had pretty severe leaks at both inner tie rod boots. To play it safe(er) im replacing the pump and outer tie rods as well.
Thank you for the info!
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Monday, January 12th, 2026 AT 1:42 PM
Tiny
BENJAMINTHERERRIBLE
  • MEMBER
  • 63 POSTS
Also, any suggestion on removing seemingly rounded off nuts from the cat? Or is my best bet to drop the whole exhaust
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Tuesday, January 13th, 2026 AT 10:24 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, you can drop the exhaust system. If the inner seals are leaking the ack is bad, you can get a rebuilt unit which will fix the problem. The video is how to jack up your car correctly.
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Tuesday, January 13th, 2026 AT 5:17 PM
Tiny
BENJAMINTHERERRIBLE
  • MEMBER
  • 63 POSTS
I did get a reman. Rack and pinion assembly. At this point, im literally exhaust flange bolt away from having the old r/p removed
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Tuesday, January 13th, 2026 AT 5:59 PM
Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 54,956 POSTS
Nice, yep it is a step at a time, keep at it.
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Wednesday, January 14th, 2026 AT 7:30 AM

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