1993 Saturn SL2 Car Doesn't Seem To Work In The Heat

Tiny
CJ1316
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 SATURN SL2
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 88,000 MILES
Recently within the past 2 months, my car has been acting up very strangely. When it tends to get hot outside like now, as that it is summer, my Saturn SL2 starts up fine but has such a high idle in the 2,000 RPM's. When I switch gears to reverse, it hits really hard, I assume to the high RPM's but, when I then put it in drive, the car seems to drive as if something is pulling it back. Driving really slow and still the high idle, the Speedometer does not work nor does the mile count. Though when it's cooler in the day the car starts up and runs perfectly fine with not problems. I've replaced many things on this car such as the Transmission, Alternator, Relays, Fuses, EGR Valve, Many Sensors, Radiator, Water Pump, Thermostat, & even a new computer that I'd gotten flashed from a dealership. I still think possibly they screwed me over with the computer because ever since the computer change, the car runs horrible but, I'm unsure and I'd rather not buy another computer if not need be. If you could help me out by identifying the possible problem I'd really appreciate it. Thank You. ~Corey~
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Monday, June 21st, 2010 AT 5:03 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Let's start with do you have any code's?Let me know.
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Monday, June 21st, 2010 AT 5:15 PM
Tiny
CJ1316
  • MEMBER
I'd gotten 12 (Diagnostic Check Only), 15 (Coolant Sensor/High Temperature) which I replaced, 25 (IAT Circuit - Temperature Out of High Range) which I believed was fixed through 15, 26 (Quad Driver Output Fault) I read this pops up all the time and could be an assortment of things so idk what it is, & 32 (EGR System Fault) which I just replaced the EGR valve. These codes were about 3 days ago and I tried to get the codes yesterday and there were none so Idk. I took my car in to a dealer to get a diagnostic check so hopefully that helps. $50 for a check but if it helps then so be it and if it doesn't then I'm back at square 1. Any ideas?
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Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010 AT 1:19 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Which coolant temp sensor did you replace for the code 15 the top or bottom one?Also did you inspect the connector to it for being corroded?The code 25 is for you inlet air temp sensor in your air cleaner tube nothing to do with coolant temp. Your 26 could have been your egr valve or you could still have a bad egr solenoid or a ccp solenoid those are the most common reason's for your code 26. But you said your speedometer doesn't work that could be the reason for your code 26 also. You could have a bad passive restraint control module that will take out your speedometer the speed signal run's threw that and then to your speedometer.
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Tuesday, June 22nd, 2010 AT 8:12 PM
Tiny
CJ1316
  • MEMBER
I replaced the bottom one and yes, I checked the connector. It's not corroded. Ok, I shall check that for code 25. Code 26, I replaced the EGR Valve, EGR Solenoid, & CCP Solenoid all last week so that should've corrected that. Ok I will look into the module then to see if that's perhaps that. I'd gotten a call from the dealer and I was told the transmission is seeping oil slightly but nothing major and that it was starting to screw up the speed sensor so, I just got that replaced thinking that it could possibly be that but, I just went in and nothing changed. Car still runs the same. Square 1 again. They said they'd look back into it then for free so at least I'm not being charged for anything else. I'm really beginning to think that it's the computer.
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Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
When you say you think it's the computer your talking about the pcm are you?Because it sound's more like you could have a bad passive restraint control module that run's your seat belt's. It's under your center console good sized black box with several connector's going to it. The speed signal goes threw that before it get's to the speedometer.I have seen that cause the speedometer to be inop.I would shoot them that idea since they already thought they had a bad speed sensor causing that. All they had to do was hook up the scan tool and raise the car up on the rack and they could have seen that the sensor was working by seeing the speed reading on the data display of the scan tool. They could have also did a simple ohm's check to test the sensor also. Those sensor don't go bad that often.
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Wednesday, June 23rd, 2010 AT 8:58 PM

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