Routine maintenance gone wrong at dealership?

Tiny
SWAMPYSOUTH
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 NISSAN MURANO
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 102,000 MILES
My 2011 Murano is a cream puff. It only has 102K miles with gentle driving. It has had all the services recommended by Nissan over the past 14.5 years. In turn, it has been incredibly reliable.

I recently took it in for an oil change while on a trip. The mechanic told me my head gasket was starting to leak (nothing too bad or urgent. Just something to take care of sooner rather than later). I went to my local dealership a couple days later for a gasket head replacement, new valve covers, and a brake flush. The service advisor messaged me asking for my permission to install a new air flow meter since the old one cracked from age. I agreed. The service was supposed to take half a day, but ended up lasting all day. When I picked up my car and started driving home, I realized my AC was dead (blowing hot air). I returned to the dealership ASAP and asked them to get it working. A few minutes later, the service advisor returned from talking to the mechanic. He said my AC compressor coincidentally "crapped out" during the seven hours they had my car. The AC never had a single problem in 14.5 years and my compressor just died a sudden death with no warning? Autopsy report: "AC comp with clutch; replace AC compressor with clutch (add evacuate and recharge); has power and ground at clutch. It is not engaging." Before authorizing the replacement, I asked if they had checked the refrigerant. They said the clutch was malfunctioning despite receiving the correct electrical signal. I authorized the replacement. There's a lot more I won't go into here, but bear in mind that the dealership had my vehicle for over a week while playing games with me. I had to address the owner to get any action from the GM. This, sadly, is just the first part of my saga.

I picked up my Murano yesterday and was thrilled that she was back in action and her AC was blowing cold. I live 5-10 mins from the dealership and went straight home. Today I drove to a destination five minutes from my house. At first everything seemed okay. Then I parked for about 20 minutes and restarted the car. It was then that I noticed a very rough idle. While driving to the dealership my engine seemed to be making more effort than usual to accelerate in the range of 40-50 MPH. Then, when I arrived and went to park, it made a very loud grinding metallic sound when I turned my steering wheel. No check engine lights were illuminated. I asked the service manager to sit in the front passenger seat so he could hear and experience the same things my daughter and I did. He acknowledged the rough idle and the metallic grinding sound.

I read about potential causes of rough idling and understand that the new air flow meter and AC compressor (or installation errors thereof) could be to blame. I'm hoping there's a simple answer and solution. However, I cannot comprehend how the grinding sound possibly could be related. All my tires are in great shape; two were installed just a year ago and the others aren't a whole lot older. I have them rotated routinely, so surely someone would have informed me that there was a problem with my suspension. I know cars get old and parts wear out, but not at the exact same time! I would really appreciate your insights as I prepare for another day of dealing with the dealership. I am over $2K in the hole with a car I cannot drive. It is my only vehicle and I cannot afford to replace it. Thanks in advance for your help.
Tuesday, August 5th, 2025 AT 10:12 PM

16 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
  • MASTER CERTIFIED MECHANIC
  • 54,144 POSTS
So, by head gasket I think you mean valve cover gasket, correct? It seems like they are causing issues at the dealership, I would lift the hood and inspect the ignition coils and the work they did in general. This can be why it is running rough, next I would upload a short video of the noise you are hearing so I can see what it is. Next, I would run the codes to see which ones are stored.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

It seems pretty coincidental the AC when out at the same time they did the valve covers, I would take it to another shop for inspection. The dealerships can be rough. I can help you through this one step at a time. Please upload pictures or videos in your response.
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Wednesday, August 6th, 2025 AT 11:24 AM
Tiny
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Hi Ken. Thanks for your reply! The parts are 13264-JP01A and 13264-JP01B. I heard back from the service manager today. He told me that he had to reposition two bushings that were removed for the AC compressor installation. Apparently, they didn't slide in all the way up to the shoulder. The misalignment caused metal-to-metal contact of the pieces that were bolted together. He explained that this contact caused normal engine vibrations to transmit to the rest of the car.

Since picking up my vehicle this evening, I have noticed a couple of strange things. As the AC cycles, there's a transient and unusual sound in the cabin that wasn't there before. I cannot find the words to describe it other than "mild whistling/squeaking and spinning." When I open my hood and stand there with the AC on, the compressor seems to cycle about every 20 seconds. What's odd is that every second or third cycle, the engine seems to go faster and get much louder.
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Wednesday, August 6th, 2025 AT 9:04 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Man, this dealer does not sound good. To me the tech did not do the job correctly and now can have too much oil inside the AC system. Also, the fan should not cycle the way it does, if the system is charged correctly the fan would stay on all the time that the system is on.
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Thursday, August 7th, 2025 AT 6:33 PM
Tiny
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Is there any way to flush the oil out of the system or did they break it completely? Is the odd cycling a symptom of oil being in there when it shouldn't? What do you advise me to do at this point? Should I have my car towed someplace else for help, so I don't drive it?

This whole situation is a nightmare. My wonderful Murano that had been a champ for 14.5 years until 22 July, the day I took it into the dealer for service, seems to be in serious trouble. :(
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Thursday, August 7th, 2025 AT 9:23 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, I would take it somewhere else, that dealer does not sound good. Your wonderful Murano will be back; it just needs the right shop and AC expert. Here is a video of what needs to be done so you see.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EqdrBVb0sY

Let us know how it goes.

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Friday, August 8th, 2025 AT 10:13 AM
Tiny
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Thank you! The closest highly-reputable shop is about two hours away. Temps are going to be in the mid-90s with high humidity. Is it safe to drive my vehicle without causing harm to either engine or AC system or will I need to have it towed?
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Sunday, August 10th, 2025 AT 1:54 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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That is hard to say since I am not with the car but if the you keep the AC off you should be okay, go in the early morning to drop it off so you can stay cool, please let me know what they say.
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Sunday, August 10th, 2025 AT 6:44 PM
Tiny
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My problems keep getting worse and worse. Now my steering isn't functioning properly. Could it have something to do with the misaligned bushings from the AC compressor installation?
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Monday, August 11th, 2025 AT 7:07 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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No, the steering should have nothing to do with the AC. I see you moving the steering wheel, but what is it doing wrong, do you have a noise or?
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Tuesday, August 12th, 2025 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
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The wheels aren't responding adequately to input from the steering wheel. I have to turn it more than normal for the car to change direction. It keeps wanting to go straight. The handling feels vague and imprecise and "floaty."
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Tuesday, August 12th, 2025 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Geeess, the car is having issues, I would have it towed to a shop for inspection, I would not take it back to the dealer you had it before. I am sorry you are having these issues :/ Please let me know what they say.
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Wednesday, August 13th, 2025 AT 9:34 AM
Tiny
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Thank you, Ken. I have escalated both to the company that owns the dealership and to Nissan corporate. Thanks to your helpful insights and advice, combined with the magic of AI, I have some questions for you before I speak with the technical folks on Monday. I would love to hear your thoughts so I can draft a formal list of questions for the powers-that-be.

I am almost 100% certain that the squealing noise inside my cabin is a bad clutch plate. It does not sound like a pulley bearing.

- Why did the mechanic replace the compressor instead of installing a new clutch since that is completely feasible on a 2011 Murano. After all, they diagnosed the problem as the clutch plate.

- Why would any part of the compressor squeal since it is brand new? The odds of it being defective are about 1%. Could it be from improper installation that resulted in contamination of the system? Could they have installed an aftermarket part? Which of these is more plausible?

I was reading about "Black Death, " particularly in light of the fact that the dealership had my car for a week and wouldn't give me an estimate for the job. Also worth noting is that one of the guys accidentally said "condenser" instead of compressor. It could have been a slip of the tongue, but what if the condenser also got damaged along with other parts in the AC system? That potentially could be a very costly error. Might it explain why the service manager keeps denying that the new compressor is doing anything unusual despite the loud cabin noise, fast cycling, etc? He was the one who wrote that the clutch wasn't engaging despite having power and ground. How likely do you believe it is that the clutch coil burned out from an internal short or open circuit? Is it reasonable to question whether or not the refrigerant level was too high or low, resulting in the clutch disengaging? Maybe the ECU was blocking it? Or perhaps there was a bad low-pressure or high-pressure switch? If excessive friction caused the compressor to seize from overheating, what could they have done to prevent that adverse outcome? What tests should the technician have performed to ensure a correct diagnosis and which codes would point to the main source(s) of the disaster?

The first two times I attempted to pick up my vehicle, I noticed an unpleasant chemical odor in the cabin that I had never smelled before. It's hard for me to describe it because I had never smelled anything like it. Is it possible that it could have been refrigerant?

I have many more questions about other things that went terribly wrong, but I'll stop here for now with this post strictly about the AC system. Thanks for all your help. You are an amazing mentor. I knew nothing about automotive issues before this and it just goes to show that you can teach an old dog new tricks! :)

PS - AI agrees with our common sense. The shop almost certainly broke the AC compressor: "While it's technically possible your compressor failed coincidentally, it's far more likely that something was disturbed during the valve cover gasket installation. This kind of issue is often simple to fix once identified."
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Saturday, August 16th, 2025 AT 9:28 PM
Tiny
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Now I want to address the steering problems I developed immediately after the misaligned bushings were corrected. I'm going to cite AI here since it's quick and easy, "The symptoms you're describing†steering vibration, grinding noises, inability to reach full lock, and post-repair looseness†strongly suggest that the misaligned bushings during AC compressor installation may have caused collateral damage or improper reassembly of components near the steering rack, subframe, or engine mounts." The specific issues it points out are: 1) Subframe Misalignment; 2) Interference with Steering Rack or Linkage; 3) Damage During Correction; 4) Suspension and Mounting Issues. AI also suggested the most likely causes for the symptoms my car was experiencing:

- Symptom: Steering wheel can't reach full lock (Happened while in reverse)
Cause: Rack or tie rod interference, subframe shift

- Symptom: Grinding noise when turning
Cause: Metal-on-metal contact, possibly steering shaft rubbing

- Symptom: Loose steering feel
Cause: Misaligned rack, worn bushings, or damaged linkage

- Symptom: Squeaks/rattles on bumps
Cause: Disrupted suspension geometry or loose mounts

The service manager acknowledged the original misalignment of the bushings and confirmed that it was the cause of the grinding sound due to metal-on-metal contact. However, instead of explaining why this resulted in the steering problems I developed, he surreptitiously fixed them and then pretended that he had done nothing at all besides drive the car around a bit. He implied that the things my teen daughter and I experienced were just a fantasy. He was super condescending and smug. I imagine he and the dealership were fearful of litigation since they not only caused the problem, but they failed to catch it before returning the vehicle to me. My daughter and I could have been killed in an accident.

The steering is precise now and the wheel has no trouble reaching full lock in reverse. What concerns me is that the car has a lot of squeaks and rattles it never did before. It's noisy when driving on road that isn't smooth. I'm concerned that it's not just annoying, but can cause problems over time. How do I even begin to address this to the "big dogs?" As it is, the dealership had to pay for the parts and labor to fix these problems and obfuscate the fact that such work was necessary.

What questions should I raise? What tests or expert assessments should I demand? I cannot ask what was broken and what parts were replaced because, as far as they're concerned, the problems never existed and there is no written record of the work they did. I'm just some nutcase who is never happy and complains about everything. It's beyond maddening!
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Saturday, August 16th, 2025 AT 10:23 PM
Tiny
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I need to draft one more post about engine and electrical problems subsequent to the damage done by the dealership, but I'm exhausted. I will write that one tomorrow.
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Saturday, August 16th, 2025 AT 10:28 PM
Tiny
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I asked AI about the reason why my AC is cycling rapidly and it came back with some possible causes. Based on everything you already know, which of these seem to apply to my situation?

- undercharged system
- overcharged system
- faulty pressure switches
- improper compressor oil balance

AI also says the cooling fan is blowing at high speeds to compensate for heat buildup. This makes complete sense and I have noted the heat in the engine compartment and coming out of my tailpipes. The reasons for it provided by AI are:

- The AC system is under strain and the condenser is overheating. (There's that pesky condenser that I mentioned in my post last night!)
- The engine cooling system is trying to dissipate excess heat from the AC load. (For sure!)
- The fan control module or temperature sensor is reacting to spikes in temperature caused by the compressor cycling.

Do you believe this overheating, especially since it involves the condenser, may, in fact, indicate point to contamination of the AC system and its parts? Could they have installed a compressor that isn't compatible with the 2011 Murano's AC system?

The fact that my V6 engine is struggling at moderate speeds (40-50 MPH) is really disconcerting. I have never heard or felt it under so much strain. Do you think it could be using excessive torque to operate? Do you believe that condenser may be blocked? Or could it be the radiator struggling to dissipate heat? Or both? It doesn't seem likely that a dirty throttle body is the problem because we already know about the compressor. Nonetheless, should I have the techs check the throttle body for buildup?

The other night, while sitting in a parking lot with the AC on, the fan turned off in the cabin and the light on the dash went dark. I tried to turn it back on, but the button was unresponsive. A few minutes passed and I was able to turn it back on. Do you think the faulty compressor triggered a thermal overload or protection lockout? Do you think it is reasonable for me to request that the mechanics check for evidence of this? What codes should they look for?

- Check refrigerant pressures (both high and low sides).
- Inspect the compressor clutch and fan relay wiring for loose or damaged connections.
- Test the AC control module and pressure switches to see if they’re triggering premature shutdowns.
- Verify that the system was charged correctly with the right refrigerant and oil type.

Do you have any additional suggestions for tests to pinpoint the problem(s)?

Based on all the new information I have provided, do you think the AC system is contaminated? It sounds like the condenser absolutely needs replacing. What other AC parts are most likely to need help after this nightmare?

The steering problem was secondary and caused by slopping work during the AC compressor installation and realignment of the bushings.

The main problem appears to be the AC system itself.

Thanks again for everything. I look forward to hearing from you so I am fully prepared to do battle!
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Sunday, August 17th, 2025 AT 8:13 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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The thing is the car was fine before the service, so they left something off like a ground wire. But if you think the AC is causing the issue, here is a video to help you check it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EqdrBVb0sY

Let us know how it goes.
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Sunday, August 17th, 2025 AT 12:04 PM

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