Runs poorly like the timing is off

Tiny
JUSTCAUSE
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.5L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 67,000 MILES
Hey guys kinda stumped. Car shut off no codes. Crank sensor was not reading on scan tool. Replaced it still no spark. Tested and was getting power to distributor but nothing after. So I replaced distributor and plugs got spark back. It ran okay for about 2 minutes stumbled then shut off. Thought the timing was off so I pulled intake did the thumb trick on #1 cylinder. Put it all back together same problem ran but very poorly. So I pulled distributor intake and valve cover made sure I was on compression stroke and the valves were closed on #1. All timing marks line up on timing belt. Lined the distributor marks up on the cam tab and pointed rotor to #1 plug. Put it all together and it would just crank. So for fun I turned the rotor same thing turned it a third time it started but ran like crap again. Fuel pressure is good. Spark is good. I'm just out of ideas. It still seems like it's out of time. Any ideas would help.
Saturday, March 7th, 2020 AT 8:24 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
It sounds like you have everything where it should be. Lets try to think through this. Timing is good, good spark, good fuel pressure, and with 67,000 miles, I can't imaging there is an issue with compression. Are you certain there are no vacuum leaks? Could there be a restriction in the exhaust? I can't imagine all injectors failed at the same time. Have you checked the pulse to make sure it is consistent? Have you pulled any plugs to see if they are wet? Are there any new codes?

Doubtful you need these, but I'm adding them just in case.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-fuel-injector

Let me know.
Joe
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Saturday, March 7th, 2020 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
JUSTCAUSE
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
No wet plugs compression is great still no codes. What stumps me the most is when I did all the timing stuff tb distributor pointed at 1 it would just crank but when I moved the rotor on the distributor it would start just run terribly. I will give the vacuum leak a run through. Just the way things are going I don't think that's it. Willing to try anything at this point.
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Saturday, March 7th, 2020 AT 9:07 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Anything is possible. Which way did you move the rotor (advance or retard)? Also, any chance of something plugging the exhaust or air intake?
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Saturday, March 7th, 2020 AT 9:20 PM

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