Rough Idle after running the engine for an hour?

Tiny
JUAN GERA
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  • 2015 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SPORT
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 73,000 MILES
Hello, mechanics and fellow car enthusiasts.

My car starts rough idle after running for an hour; it gets worse if I turn on the AC.

The things I did.
New sparkplugs
New fuel pump
Cleaned and test fuel injectors - fuel injectors are okay
Cleaned throttle body
Ignition coil test - coils are okay
New PCV Valve

By the way, there's no check engine light. I would appreciate it so much if someone could help me.
Wednesday, December 11th, 2024 AT 9:16 PM

18 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
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There are a few things that can make it act this way, vacuum leaks, weak MAF sensor, low compression in one cylinder, bad timing chains, please go over this guide to see what the popular problem are, I would try a new MAF sensor because I have seen these sensors cause this problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/repairing-engine-rough-idle-issues

Here is the location of the sensor if you want to swap it out. Also, can you tell me the fuel trims? Please go over this guide to read them:

https://youtu.be/u-4syLc-ifQ

Check out the images (below). Please let us know what happens.
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Thursday, December 12th, 2024 AT 1:05 PM
Tiny
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Thank you for your response, Ken. This is the data stream when the engine just starts up.
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Thursday, December 12th, 2024 AT 5:32 PM
Tiny
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And in the last 10 seconds of this video. That's where the engine acting up rough.
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Thursday, December 12th, 2024 AT 5:41 PM
Tiny
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Hopefully that data helps. Thank you so much Ken.
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Thursday, December 12th, 2024 AT 5:42 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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So what I see is the IAT sensor says it is over 100 degrees, is it this hot where you live? If not, I would replace the IAT sensor first, thanks for the videos they helped. Also, I see a bunch of erratic readings fuel trims, but the IAT might cause this so let's replace that first and clear any codes once competed, here is the location of the sensor which is part of the MAF sensor just to let you know.
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Friday, December 13th, 2024 AT 12:32 PM
Tiny
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We are in a tropical area. But it was impossible to reach that temperature, especially since the engine had just started, and I recorded the video early in the morning. Thank you so much for the help, Ken. I highly appreciate it.
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Friday, December 13th, 2024 AT 3:11 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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You are welcome, lets swap out that sensor and clear the codes to see what happens.
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Saturday, December 14th, 2024 AT 10:15 AM
Tiny
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  • 2015 MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER SPORT
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 73,000 MILES
Dear Mechanics,

The issue is RPMs fluctuations after the car runs for more than 30 minutes.

Engine: 4B11

Things I have done:
1. Cleaned fuel injectors
2. Cleaned throttle body
3. New Fuel pump and filter
4. New Sparkplug
5. New air filter
6. Tried new O2 sensor, but I returned the old one since it's not the issue
7. New Drive belt

Scenario:
I got a check engine light and upon scanning the code is P0132, after removing and cleaning the O2 sensor and the code is gone. While having the code I didn't get the RPM fluctuations.

After a week running the RPM suddenly fluctuates, especially at a stop. After doing the things I mentioned above, still it didn't fix the issue.

Since the sparkplug I bought are pre gap, so I changed the gap. One thing I noticed when I lowered the Gap to 0.7mm, the RPMs fluctuation at a stop is gone but only when running, it's jerking.

Can someone help me identify the issue? I am thinking the ignition coil might be weak, but I don't want to waste money anymore if I am wrong. I need your opinions. Thank you and God bless!
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Friday, February 21st, 2025 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
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I would make sure you have the correct park plugs at the factory spec gap.

Spark Plug Type:
OEM Recommended Plug: NGK LZFR5BI-11
Alternative: Denso FXE20HR11
Spark Plug Gap:
0.043 inches (1.1 mm)

Let us know how it goes.
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Friday, February 21st, 2025 AT 11:56 AM
Tiny
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My owner's manual says NGK FR6EI, it's the one I bought and tried 1.1mm GAP, the wider the gap, the more the rpm fluctuates. Before it goes 30 minutes, but at a wider gap of only 15 minutes. The sparkplug used before I replaced the new one was NGK BCP6ES.
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Friday, February 21st, 2025 AT 12:13 PM
Tiny
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I forgot to mention that, before I removed the old sparkplugs, it has oils. I am not sure if that's a factor. But, after using a new sparkplug it never happened again.
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2025 AT 1:33 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, that is common to have oil in the spark plug hole. Watching the live stream data, I noticed the MAF sensor all over the map, these can be caused by a bad intake or exhaust valve. Let's try a compression test to make sure we are not chasing our tails.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Please go over this guide and get back to us.
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Saturday, February 22nd, 2025 AT 12:20 PM
Tiny
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Okay, I will order a tool for checking compression. I have 1 question, I found out some oil leaks from the sides of the engine. Can a bad rocker cover gasket can be the cause of RPM fluctuations?
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Sunday, February 23rd, 2025 AT 10:39 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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If there is a large enough hole then yes. You can rent a compression gauge at the auto parts store for free FYI. Sorry I didn't say anything earlier.
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Monday, February 24th, 2025 AT 10:40 AM
Tiny
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It's different in our country, everything has a price. Maybe a few will have it for free. Anyway, I noticed that when I ran the car over 100km/h, a burnt smell came from the dashboard. And I checked the engine near the exhaust. There's an oil mark. I think when running that speed the oil escapes.
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Wednesday, February 26th, 2025 AT 7:11 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Did you ever swap out the IAT sensor which was at over 100? And then clear the codes?
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Thursday, February 27th, 2025 AT 10:04 AM
Tiny
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No, I have tried on my sister's car. The temperature are the same. By the way I have done the compression test, and it looks good. All Cylinder has the same result 160 PSI.
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Thursday, February 27th, 2025 AT 11:27 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes, the compression look good, were the other cylinders the same? Thanks for the video, it helps. So the basic problem is rough idle correct? I noticed in the second video that the TPS sensor inside the throttle body fluctuates, are you moving the gas pedal at all?
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Friday, February 28th, 2025 AT 5:56 PM

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