Reduced power/inoperable

2013 TESLA MODEL S
141,000 MILES • AUTOMATIC • ELECTRIC
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BHAMDOC1
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EV battery reconditioned back in 2023 and been great since then.
Few weeks ago i started seeing all the cluster's symbols just flash once while driving. Thought it was a glitch. Happened few times in the e last few weeks.
I have not changed the 12v battery since 2021 when i bought it.
One day went to drive it and would not get out of park. Both screens were black, which happens quiet often and all i have to do ia reset it by holding 2 buttons on the steering wheel.
Thought the 12v maybe is dying. Got a new one from tesla and installed it. Same results.
Left it for 2 weeks cane to ir and it was dead. This never happened with the old battery so it must be getting drained or not being charged by the main pack.
Placed a junper box and all lights come on and soor handles come out. Same measages: reduced power, system will shut down and low voltage detected. HV battery still charged at 92% and i doubt this is the reason for all this.
Did more reading and most say the dc to dc converter is not charging the 12v battery back and hence, similar to the alternator, and he ce would mot get out of gear. Its usually the 3 fuses inside the converter, but before i remove it to check it, they also say it could be the f100 fuse on top of the 12v battery which is a junction box. Is there a way you can see where the dc dc converter fuse if any so i can check if it is blown or not? All i see is the junction box abd then two other small fuses boxes next to the battery
Jun 24, 2026 at 1:38 AM
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STRAILER
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Since the 12V battery has already been replaced and the same warnings remain, the next checks should be:

1. Measure voltage directly at the 12V battery posts with the car asleep/off and then again with the car awake.

2. With the car awake, the 12V system should normally be higher than resting battery voltage. If it stays around 12 volts or drops lower, the DC/DC converter is likely not charging or the battery is bad.

3. Check the F100 high-current fuse/junction fuse near the 12V battery. If that fuse is open, the DC/DC converter may not be able to feed the 12V system properly.

4. Check the smaller fuse boxes near the 12V battery for any blown low-voltage control fuses.

5. Inspect the 12V battery cables, ground connections, and junction box connections for looseness, corrosion, overheated terminals, or a poor crimp.

I would not remove or open the DC/DC converter until the external fuses and 12V feed circuits have been tested first. The converter is connected to the high-voltage system, so this is not like opening a normal alternator. Please let me know what you find.
Jun 24, 2026 at 3:16 AM
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BHAMDOC1
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THANKS FOR YOUR RESPONSE. LET ME ASK YOU THIS, CAN I TRICKLE CHARGE THE 12V BATTERY WITH JUST THE NEGATIVE CABLE DISCONNECTED?This is pain in the behind to remove the battery or even remove the junction box, so many wires on top of the battery, so if I connect the charger to one nut on the positive side and the negative to the battery negative side will that work? I can disconnect the High voltage HV battery connector which is next to the battery
Jun 24, 2026 at 1:32 PM
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STRAILER
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Yes, you can charge the battery but you need to remove the negative battery cable first. Before you do though, what is the voltage of the battery with the car not on?
Jun 24, 2026 at 3:33 PM
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BHAMDOC1
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My mistake is that o dod not check the new battery voltage before installing it even the outht its new from tesla. Then installed it and same results. Then left it for days and it was dead. I will check it before i start charging it but i believe it was around 6 or 7
Jun 24, 2026 at 4:40 PM
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