Rear axle, right side

Tiny
DARYL TAYLOR
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 FORD EXPEDITION
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 209,000 MILES
Was trying to replace the rear right hub bearing. Cannot get it off, it appears to be seized, even with a puller, heat and banging the heck out of it. Have given up and will take out the entire axle.

Question is how do I do that? Do I have to drain the Rear and is there a clip or a pin inside of the rear to release the axle or does the axle "snap" out with out disassembling the rear?

Thank you

Daryl
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Sunday, April 16th, 2017 AT 3:41 PM

8 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Are you aware of the four mounting bolts behind the bearing assembly? That might sound stupid, but the last person who had this problem did not know about them. Also, he used a three-jaw puller with a pushing bolt that pushed against the CV joint after the axle nut was removed. That just pushed the half shaft in and doesn't put any pulling pressure on the bearing.
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Monday, April 17th, 2017 AT 5:57 PM
Tiny
DARYL TAYLOR
  • MEMBER
CARADIODOC, Thank you for your response and I am going to move along on that note. Yes I know about the 4 bolts on the back end and I had removed all of them. I was successful today, this morning, in the removing the hub assembly. I had already replaced the two front hubs and I cut the bearing portion off of the wheel mounting plate and use that as a template or hub puller. May sound confusing but I can take a few pictures and post them. I made a hub puller and I think I like it better than a three jaw puller. By using a the steel plate from the front beating hub it was a exact image for the bolt patterns. I knocked out two of the Lug bolts on the rear hub and used two 1/2 inch bolts to pull in the plate into the spindle and push the hub Assembly off of the axle. It was full of rust and that is what seized the hub assembly on the axle. It was a breeze, this jury rigged device made the hub come off in no time at all.

But what I still would like to know is, if I were to replace the entire axle assembly. Do I have to take the cover off of the rear and remove clips or pins or does the axle suppose to "snap" out of the rear differential?
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Monday, April 17th, 2017 AT 6:40 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I can't find any photos or drawings of the rear half shafts or CV joints. Apparently that information is top secret. I DID find one reference to needing to remove the circlip from inside the differential housing to remove the stub shaft. There's two ways I could interpret that. If the stub shaft has a mounting plate on its end, just a couple of inches from the center section, that is what needs the circlip to be removed. If you just want to remove the half shaft, the inner CV joint will be bolted to that plate on the stub shaft. Typically there are six bolts to remove, then the inner joint is compressed against its internal spring pressure, then dropped down.

By "stub shaft", they could also mean that is the splined part of the inner CV joint that slides into the differential housing. That would need to have the circlip removed, then the joint / half shaft can be slid out and removed.

If you could post some photos of the rear half shaft, that might help me figure out what comes apart.
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Monday, April 17th, 2017 AT 7:24 PM
Tiny
DARYL TAYLOR
  • MEMBER
Sorry the last one was not focused that well. The first photo in the end going into the rear. The second if from the out side of the wheel well goign into the rear housing and the last is the outer cv. If you need additional photos let me know.

Also I found that this old hub is the best puller for this job. I used two 1/2 inch bolts through the lug nut holes and pulled the rear hub. You can use as many as the holes as you want to achieve a even and less stressful pull on one center shaft. You do have to plug the center hole for the spindle.
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Tuesday, April 18th, 2017 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I still haven't found a picture of the inner CV joint, but I assume we're past that point. There are a few differential housings that have short shafts sticking out, and they have splines on them, not the flat mounting plate as I described earlier. Those inner joint housings have a hollow splined hole that slides over the stub shaft. No clip holds those in place. That is done by the spring pressure in the joint. Since there is a reference to the circlips, I have a suspicion your inner joints have the splined shaft on them, and those slide into the housing, then the circlips slide onto the ends, just like with regular solid axles.

I do have one comment of value that to my knowledge only applies to front-wheel-drive Fords, but keep it in mind when working on the rear differential. The final drive gear is held in place by either half shaft. You can remove either shaft as long as you only remove one of them. If you remove both shafts at the same time, that gear will drop out of place, then you'll need to remove the cover to hold the gear in place.
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Tuesday, April 18th, 2017 AT 9:25 PM
Tiny
DARYL TAYLOR
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the info and I will get back to you with my results and donation :-))
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Wednesday, April 19th, 2017 AT 6:41 AM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Please let us know what you find so it will help others.

Best, Ken
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Saturday, April 22nd, 2017 AT 10:37 AM
Tiny
DARYL TAYLOR
  • MEMBER
I plan too, I live in Maryland and I dont have a garage, the weather has not been kind to me the past few days
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Saturday, April 22nd, 2017 AT 11:32 AM

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