Power steering valve

Tiny
PETER ANDRULIS
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 AUDI A4
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 181,300 MILES
I was wondering if anybody knew what this valve was in my old power steering
return line hose for my car listed above A4 1, 8 quattro? Seems like the rack hums without them and I don't remember it doing it before. I replaced all the hoses to my rack, and to the reservoir. Put in a new re-manufactured power steering pump as well as I thought after 19 years and 181,000 miles it was time. I had a local hydraulic shop replace the lines but they did not move the valves over.

Any ideas? Could this be causing a ripple in the fluid, hence hemming and
too much pressure in the unit?

Sincerely,
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Sunday, March 29th, 2020 AT 3:43 PM

29 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
I am not sure about what valves you are referring too. Did you mean to attach a picture of them? If so, it did not attach. Can you try again?

However, in general terms if there were valves in the lines prior and now it is making a noise, then yes, they could be making noise. I don't know that this is what they are intended for but I am sure the result of them not being there would be noise.

Let me know if you can get a picture of them and we can go from there. Thanks
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Sunday, March 29th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

I have to be honest. I'm not sure what it is you are referring to. Do me a favor. I attached an exploded view of the entire system. Tell me which part you are referring to. I just replaced a return on an 04 and it was just a standard return hose.

Let me know.

Thanks,
Joe
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Sunday, March 29th, 2020 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
PETER ANDRULIS
  • MEMBER
It's on the return line to the pump from the reservoir.
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Monday, March 30th, 2020 AT 5:18 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
I suspect that is hallow. Is that correct? If it is, it would be interesting to see if putting that in the line stops the noise. I think the noise is just an unfortunate byproduct because that insert is there just to keep the line from collapsing. However, if it is not hallow then calling it a valve is very accurate.

Where did you get the lines that were replaced? Where they made or did they buy them? That is not a piece that would need to be transferred over as it should come in the new line.
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Monday, March 30th, 2020 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
PETER ANDRULIS
  • MEMBER
I had the metal ends installed by a hydraulic customizer. I talked to him about the baffle valves, its obvious to slow down flow, which was confirmed by my Audi parts person. He thinks that's where the noise is coming from. I'm not so sure. I think my re-manufactured Bosch pump is still not working correctly and making the whine which is real bad when it's turned to lock. I replaced the serpentine belt today as I read in one mechanics view it could be a slipping belt. No real change still.
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Monday, March 30th, 2020 AT 5:10 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Is it possible for you to record the noise it is making and uploading it for us to hear?

Also, a noise like you described usually is related to air in the system or low fluid. Take a look through these directions for filling, bleeding and so on. Try bleeding the power steering pump.

2001 Audi A4 Quattro Sedan (8D2) L4-1.8L Turbo (AWM)
Hydraulic Fluid Level Checking Steering Bleed & Check For Leaks
Vehicle Steering and Suspension Steering Power Steering Power Steering Fluid Service and Repair Procedures Hydraulic Fluid Level Checking Steering Bleed & Check For Leaks
HYDRAULIC FLUID LEVEL CHECKING STEERING BLEED & CHECK FOR LEAKS
Hydraulic Fluid Level, Checking; Steering System, Bleeding and Checking For Leaks
Hydraulic fluid level, checking
- With engine switched off, bring front wheels to straight-ahead position.

Pic 1

- Remove cap.
- Wipe dipstick using clean cloth.
- Re-install cap hand tight and remove again.

Note: The cap must be screwed on fully to obtain an accurate fluid level reading.

Checking with fluid cold

pic 2

- Fluid level must be in area of "MIN." Marking (up to 2 mm (0.08 inch) above or below marking)

Checking with fluid at operating temperature
- Operating temperature: above approx. 50 C (122 F)
- Fluid level must be between "MIN." And "MAX." Markings

Notes:
- If there is too much fluid in the reservoir, fluid must be extracted.
- If there is not enough fluid, it is not sufficient to just top off the fluid; the hydraulic system must also be checked for leaks.
- Do not re-use hydraulic fluid that has been removed.

Steering system, bleeding
- Check hydraulic fluid level and top off if necessary.
- Raise vehicle until front wheels can move freely.
- With engine switched off, turn steering wheel from lock-to-lock 10 times.
- Check hydraulic fluid level and top off if necessary.
- Lower vehicle.
- Start engine.
- Turn steering wheel from lock-to-lock 10 times.
- Check hydraulic fluid level and top off if necessary.
Any remaining air in steering system will dissipate while driving over the next 10 - 20 km (612 miles).

Steering system, checking for leaks
- Start engine.
- Turn steering from lock-to-lock and hold briefly.
This produces maximum possible pressure

CAUTION: To avoid damaging the pump, do not allow the engine to run for more than 10 seconds (with steering at lock) when carrying out this test.

In this position the components must be checked for leaks:
- Pinion seal on steering gear valve housing
- All line connections
- Rack seals
- Check rack seals with boots pushed back:
- Open boot clamp.
- Push boot back.
- Steering gear must be replaced if fluid is visible in steering gear housing and/or in boot

___________________

Another thought is the type of fluid that was used. These vehicles are very sensitive and will make noise if a standard type fluid was used. Here is the manufacturer's part number for fluid.

Power Steering Fluid

Use only hydraulic oil
Type. G 002 000

______________________

Let us know if that helps.

Joe
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Monday, March 30th, 2020 AT 7:44 PM
Tiny
PETER ANDRULIS
  • MEMBER
Here is some sound as it is turned lock to lock. Louder after driving or when driving. Never goes away.
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 6:22 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
For what it is worth, I had a Chrysler 300 years ago that was making that exact sound. We pinpointed it to a power steering line by using a Stethoscope (picture attached) designed for this type of thing. Basically you use this to find where the noise is the loudest.

If we can do that and confirm this is coming from this line that had this "baffle" then that is more proof that this is where the issue is coming from.

We fixed that 300 by replacing that line when we found it was an aftermarket line that they had replaced. We didn't dig into the difference so I don't know what the OEM line had different then the aftermarket.
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 9:56 AM
Tiny
PETER ANDRULIS
  • MEMBER
I bought one already last week so will inspect it as you stated ! Will let you know !
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 10:05 AM
Tiny
PETER ANDRULIS
  • MEMBER
It's loudest on the high pressure hose closest to the new Bosch re-manufactured pump, where it comes out of the pump just after the clamped fitting. On the hose with a strange fitting the customizer installed. Is it the pump or the fitting?
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 10:24 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
If you replaced it with an OEM part and the sound is closest to the pump, I suspect the pump is the issue. Did you try bleeding it just in the event there is still air somehow in the system?
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 11:16 AM
Tiny
PETER ANDRULIS
  • MEMBER
Yes. The sound is closest to the pump as I moved the Stethoscope further away the sound lessened. I am in the process of trying to find an appropriate replacement. I appreciate all your thoughts and advice! Thank you ! Will let you know what I obtain as a replacement, and how it works.
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 1:27 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Sounds great. Thanks for the update. Let us know the result when you get there. Thanks
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 5:33 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

I don't know if you need or want them, but here are the directions for replacing it if you plan to do it yourself. The attached pics correlate with the directions. When you look through them, pay attention to pic 12 and the directions. This step was not part of the older one I did not too long ago.

_______________________________________________

2001 Audi A4 Quattro Sedan (8D2) L4-1.8L Turbo (AWM)
Power Steering Pump Removing and Installing
Vehicle Steering and Suspension Steering Power Steering Power Steering Pump Service and Repair Procedures Power Steering Pump Removing and Installing
POWER STEERING PUMP REMOVING AND INSTALLING
Power Steering Pump, Removing and Installing

Notes:

Power steering pumps cannot be repaired. If problems in the pump are suspected, carry out pressure and leakage tests. Replace the pump if it is malfunctioning.
Check steering system for leaks if the fluid level in the reservoir is low.
If there are leaks at the line connections, first tighten connections, wipe dry and re-check for leaks.
Bleeding the steering system, refer to Power Steering Bleeding - Service and Repair - Procedures See: Power Steering Bleeding > Procedures
Checking the steering systems for leaks, refer to Power Steering Fluid - Testing and Inspection - Procedures
Type of hydraulic fluid: G 002 000

Caution! Pumps supplied as replacement parts are not filled with fluid. Therefore it is essential to fill the pump with hydraulic fluid G 002 000 and rotate pump several times by hand. Otherwise the pump may be damaged or be noisy during operation.

Power steering pump (4-cyl. Engine), removing and installing

Special tools, test equipment and auxiliary items

pic 1

Removing

pic 2

- Remove noise insulation panel.
- Remove front bumper, refer to Body and Frame - Bumper - Service and Repair - Procedures See: Front Bumper > Removal and Replacement
- Move lock carrier to service position.

Lock carrier, moving to service position

pic 3

1. Bolt (6x) 50 Nm (37 ft lbs)
2. Bolt 50 Nm (37 ft lbs)
3. Bolts (4x) 8 Nm (71 in lbs)
4. Bolts (2x) 8 Nm (71 in lbs)
5. Access hole for 3369 support tool

6. Hole in front end
For securing lock carrier in service position

7. Lock carrier
8. Weather stripping for hood
9. Bowden cable for hood
10. Holes in side panel

Moving to service position

- Remove front bumper, refer to Body and Frame - Bumper - Service and Repair - Procedures See: Front Bumper > Removal and Replacement
- Remove intake air duct located between lock carrier and air cleaner.
- Remove bolt -2- and install 3369 support tool on left and right hand sides.
- Remove bolts -1-, -3- and -4- then pull lock carrier forward on 3369 support tool.

Removing ribbed belt on vehicles with 4-cyl. Gasoline engine

pic 4

- Move tensioner in direction of arrow to loosen ribbed belt.
- Secure using 3204 drift.

CAUTION: Mark the running direction before removing. Reinstalling a used belt in reversed running direction could damage the belt.

Removing ribbed belt on vehicles with 4cyl. Diesel engine

pic 5

- Move tensioner in direction of arrow to loosen ribbed belt.

CAUTION: Mark the running direction before removing. Reinstalling a used belt in reversed running direction could damage the belt.

Removing power steering pump pulley (vehicles with 4-cyl. Gasoline engine)

pic 6

- Remove coolant pump pulley.
- Remove ribbed belt.

CAUTION: Mark the running direction before removing. Reinstalling a used belt in reversed running direction could damage the belt

- Remove power steering pump pulley.
- If necessary, file down corners of VAG1590 water pump wrench.

Removing power steering pump (all engines)

pic 7

- Using 3094 hose clamps, pinch off suction and return hoses.
- Place oil catch pan in position.

Pic 8

- Remove hose clamp -1- from suction hose.
- Remove suction hose, press out of retainer and lay to side.
- Remove pressure line -2-.

Removing power steering pump (power steering pump FP-4) m.Y. 1997 -->

pic 9

- Remove hose clamp from suction hose -1-
- Remove suction hose and lay to side.
- Remove expansion hose -2-.

Pic 10

- Remove bolts -1- and socket-head bolt -2-.
- Remove pump.

Installing

Installation note: Before installing a new power steering pump, add hydraulic fluid to the suction end and turn the pump by hand until fluid emerges from the discharge end.

Pic 11

- Turn pump by hand until fluid emerges from discharge end.
- Tighten bolts -1- and -2-.
Tightening torque: 20 Nm (15 ft lbs)

Installing power steering pump (power steering pump FP-4) m.Y. 1997 -->

pic 12

- Install pressure line and tighten banjo bolt -2-.
Always replace seals
Tightening torque: 50 Nm (37 ft. Lbs.)

- Install suction hose -1-.
Mark -P- (upper arrow) must align with seam on pump (lower arrow)

- Remove 3094 hose clamps.

Pic 13

- Install pressure line and tighten banjo bolt -2-.
Always replace seals
Tightening torque: 50 Nm (37 ft lbs)

- Install suction hose -1-.

Pic 14

- Tighten socket-head bolts for coolant pump pulley.
Tightening torque: 25 Nm (18 ft lbs)

- Install fan at viscous coupling.
Tightening torque: 10 Nm (7 ft lbs)

pic 15

- Install ribbed belt.

CAUTION: Mark the running direction before removing. Reinstalling a used belt in reversed running direction could damage the belt.
Make sure that the belt is correctly seated in the pulleys.

Note: Illustration is shown without the lock carrier installed for greater clarity.

- Top off hydraulic fluid.
- Install bumper, refer to Body and Frame - Bumper - Service and Repair - Procedures See: Front Bumper > Removal and Replacement
- Start engine and make sure ribbed belt runs properly.
- Check hydraulic fluid level.
- Bleed steering system, refer to Power Steering Bleeding - Service and Repair - Procedures See: Power Steering Bleeding > Procedures
- Check steering system for leaks, refer to Power Steering Fluid - Testing and Inspection - Procedures

____________________________

Let me know how it works out for you.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 31st, 2020 AT 5:38 PM
Tiny
PETER ANDRULIS
  • MEMBER
I replaced the noisy re-manufactured Bosch with a brand new one from the original manufacturer which was ZF. Still a bit of noise although not as bad, so am thinking I would look at other things that could be doing it such as the 19mm banjo bolt on that pressure line and then work my way all the way through the lines. As there is the reducer in the return line from the reservoir. Although I suspect the rack as well.
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Okay. That is progress. Please keep us posted. Thanks
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Saturday, April 11th, 2020 AT 7:44 PM
Tiny
PETER ANDRULIS
  • MEMBER
I wanted an additional opinion. I replaced the Bosch re-manufactured pump with brand new pump (supposed to be the original manufacturer ZF) and carefully poured new fluid into the pump as you directed, carefully turned the steering wheel lock to lock when suspended and off, until there were no more bubbles, only a few came out anyway, then turned it on did the lock to lock, like 20 times, totally silent while suspended but the odd whine returns when on the ground. I purchased a mechanics stethoscope and put it to the outlet hose and that is where the sound is. It whines and does groans when hard turns are performed. Now what? Do I just replace the pressure hose with one from Gates? Or do I have to really spend big money and get the Audi one for like $275.00 I cannot figure out what is causing this whine.
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Monday, April 20th, 2020 AT 7:40 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Just to confirm, you are only hearing the noise now when you make lock to lock turns? All power steering pumps make some noise so I am wondering if we are chasing a normal noise at this point. Clearly I am not looking at it and you are capable of knowing if this is normal or not but I am just bringing up the point.

Thanks
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Tuesday, April 21st, 2020 AT 8:44 AM
Tiny
PETER ANDRULIS
  • MEMBER
Well, it is all the time, and the whine varies when the rpm vary, even changes when the windows go up and down.
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Tuesday, April 21st, 2020 AT 10:07 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Peter, is it possible for you to record the noise so we can hear it?

Joe
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Wednesday, April 22nd, 2020 AT 9:09 AM

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