How to remove the power steering pump and the tools required.
have the same problem?
Tuesday, November 22nd, 2016 AT 3:06 PM
There is no list for jobs like that. We just grab a wrench, try it, throw it on the bench, then try a different size until we get the right one. Each person tackles jobs like this in different ways. Some use a screwdriver to loosen a hose clamp; some use a nut driver, and some use a wrench. Some use a wrench while some only have the dexterity to use a socket and ratchet.
When you are referring to specialty tools, you will need a pulley puller to get the pulley off the old pump, and an installer to push the pulley onto the new pump. Many pumps come with a simple nut and bolt to install the pulley. You should be able to find the puller at an auto parts store that rents or borrows tools. In my city, every store has tools to borrow, and they don't charge for them when you buy the pump from them.
Look at how far the hub of the pulley is pressed onto the shaft. If it is flush with the end of the shaft, it will be easy to match that when you reinstall it. Often the hub sticks out from the end of the shaft 1/8" or more. You can use the rust inside the hub as a witness mark to show when you have the pulley pressed on the correct amount. Some pumps come with a spacer to be used with the installer tool to set the depth, but those only work with certain tools. If the pulley is installed too far or not enough by as little as 1/16", it can set up a horrendous belt squeal.
It is recommended you use a flare nut wrench, aka, line wrench, to remove and install the high-pressure hose from the pump. Some people just use a regular open-end wrench, but those only contact the nut on two sides. Those nuts are made from soft metal and round off very easily. Flare nut wrenches contact the nut on four sides and greatly reduce the chance of doing damage to it.
You also have to look at what it takes to remove the pump from the engine. On some, it can be faster to partially-remove the exhaust system and drop the pump down to the bottom, especially if the car is on a hoist. If the bolts for the exhaust system are rusty and in danger of breaking, it might be easier to remove an engine mount and remove the pump from on top. On some engines the pump is right up on top and easy to get to.
Do not forget you will need to remove or loosen the drive belt. Special tools are made for releasing the tension from a spring-loaded tensioner pulley. On some engines you can wrestle the belt off by tugging on it to relax that spring-loaded pulley. Some have a pulley with a lock nut that must be loosened, then another bolt that must be loosened quite a bit to allow the tensioner pulley to drop away, allowing the belt to be removed.
Some pumps have the fluid reservoir attached with a hose clamp and a metal roll pin. You will need a hammer and a small punch to push the roll pin out. Many of us use a turkey baster to suck out as much power steering fluid as possible before we start the job. There is going to be some mess anyway, so you might want to use a spray-can of engine degreaser to clean the area when you're done.