1990 Pontiac Bonneville Won't go into gear

Tiny
BVILLEGAS
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 PONTIAC BONNEVILLE
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 135,200 MILES
We recently took a chance on this car and bought it from a dealer for $400. He said the car was driving good and than a lady test drove it one day and stopped at the stop sign and from there it refused to move. It will not go into any gear and when you put it in neutral to try to push it backwards it feels like it's in park. It runs beautifully, and when put into gear the linkage moves, and when reved up the rpms move as well, but the car doesn't.

The dealer said that he had an employee(mechanic) that wanted the car and was fired for some reason and he thinks the guy did something to it.

My husband thinks it might need the whole transmission replaced, what are your thoughts?

Thank you so much.
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Saturday, February 7th, 2009 AT 9:16 AM

4 Replies

Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

To better assist you please tell me if your model is a LE, SE or SSE also the engine size in liter.

Do know how to pull the cods on the car?
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Saturday, February 7th, 2009 AT 11:44 PM
Tiny
BVILLEGAS
  • MEMBER
It is a SSE 3.8L. I do know how to pull codes from the car. I will try doing that this afternoon.
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Sunday, February 8th, 2009 AT 10:39 AM
Tiny
BVILLEGAS
  • MEMBER
It only flashes a code 12. The battery was disconnected from the car when we purchased it though, so this could have erased the codes.
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Sunday, February 8th, 2009 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello -

Thanks for the info.

This may be a dumb question - sorry - but you have checked the transmission fluid and it is good and clean - not smells burnt.

Is there any sign of transmission fluid on the ground etc?

The only thing I have in the troubleshooting is No Drive.

No Drive In "D"
1. Low oil level or pressure. Manual linkage misadjusted or disconnected. Piston or seal damaged in 1-2 servo assembly. Drive axles disengaged. Leaking or damaged 1-2 servo oil pipe seals. Damaged oil pump drive shaft or pump assembly. Incorrect No. 13 (No. 3 on 4T60-E) check ball location. Torque converter stator roller clutch damaged. Input clutch accumulator piston seal damaged. Drive link assembly damaged, drive link chain broken or sprockets and bearings damaged.
2. Input clutch assembly clutch plates burned, clutch plates missing, check ball capsule leaking or missing. Input piston seals cut or damaged, or shaft feed passages blocked. Damaged or incorrectly assembled input sprag or input sun gear assembly. Burned 3rd roller clutch (due to lack of lubrication), oil lube pipe leaking or damaged.
3. Input carrier and reaction carrier assembly pinions, internal ring gear or sun gear damaged. Output shaft damaged or drive axles incorrectly assembled into differential. Burned 1-2 band assembly or band out of position. Parking pawl spring broken. Damaged final drive assembly or final drive sun gear, side gears, pinion gears or internal ring gear.

This is my thought since you only paid $400. Many transmission places will check your car out for free. You may have to pay a tow fee but. Still you are ahead based off of what you indicate the cars shape is in. Then get a quote. Worse case you may spend say, $1500 on a trans. Now you have paid $1900 for a really good deal in a car.
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Sunday, February 8th, 2009 AT 10:31 PM

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