Thanks for the info.
This may be a dumb question - sorry - but you have checked the transmission fluid and it is good and clean - not smells burnt.
Is there any sign of transmission fluid on the ground etc?
The only thing I have in the troubleshooting is No Drive.
No Drive In "D"
1. Low oil level or pressure. Manual linkage misadjusted or disconnected. Piston or seal damaged in 1-2 servo assembly. Drive axles disengaged. Leaking or damaged 1-2 servo oil pipe seals. Damaged oil pump drive shaft or pump assembly. Incorrect No. 13 (No. 3 on 4T60-E) check ball location. Torque converter stator roller clutch damaged. Input clutch accumulator piston seal damaged. Drive link assembly damaged, drive link chain broken or sprockets and bearings damaged.
2. Input clutch assembly clutch plates burned, clutch plates missing, check ball capsule leaking or missing. Input piston seals cut or damaged, or shaft feed passages blocked. Damaged or incorrectly assembled input sprag or input sun gear assembly. Burned 3rd roller clutch (due to lack of lubrication), oil lube pipe leaking or damaged.
3. Input carrier and reaction carrier assembly pinions, internal ring gear or sun gear damaged. Output shaft damaged or drive axles incorrectly assembled into differential. Burned 1-2 band assembly or band out of position. Parking pawl spring broken. Damaged final drive assembly or final drive sun gear, side gears, pinion gears or internal ring gear.
This is my thought since you only paid $400. Many transmission places will check your car out for free. You may have to pay a tow fee but. Still you are ahead based off of what you indicate the cars shape is in. Then get a quote. Worse case you may spend say, $1500 on a trans. Now you have paid $1900 for a really good deal in a car.
Sunday, February 8th, 2009 AT 10:31 PM