1996 Plymouth Voyager cruise control indicator light

Tiny
PEPENIK99
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
When I turn on the cruise I get no indication that it has come on because the indicator light does not show on the dash or on the steering wheel. I figure it is probably a blown fuse but want to know it is not just a fuse where else could the problem be? I will donate extra if I get a satifactory personal reply on my e-mail. Or an indication that I can find it easily on the forum.
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Friday, July 31st, 2009 AT 8:31 AM

16 Replies

Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
OK first off I do not email to private emails so you reply to here so I can have all the dialog to look over so I can make sure nothing is missed. Secondly I need to know that you are comfortable enough doing some tests with a digital multi meter. As for your question no fuse dedicated to the cruise control but there is a test that can be done and it could a bit to get it all done to determine what the problem is. It is 19 steps and we will take it in sections ok. So get back to me with some information first what engine do you have 3.0 to 3.3 or 3.8 ltr and is this a SE model or not? We will take it from there. Is the cruise working and the light just don't come on or is the cruise inoperative? Thank you.
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Friday, July 31st, 2009 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
PEPENIK99
  • MEMBER
I do not have access to a digital meter. The engine is a 3.0. This 96 plymouth voyager van does not have any markings that inidcate SE. The title shows FWD-AWD. The light does not come on; when I try to set the cruise without the light. The cruise does not come on. So I figure that it is inoperative.
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Friday, July 31st, 2009 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Well you need a digital multi meter. It don't have to be a 100 dollar meter either just a simple 20 dollar one it fine but with out it I can not help you as you need to do some tests and I need to know what voltages and ohms will be. Here is a pic of a inexpensive meter like I said it don't need to be a high dollar one, you can find them at your local parts or hardware stores.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_14572_1.jpg

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Saturday, August 1st, 2009 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
PEPENIK99
  • MEMBER
I have a small hand meter but it does not have digital on it; it has a sweep hand. It has a " AWS" SP-5A face plate. DC ma on the left of dial and DC v on the right of the dial;l I just use to to check continuity for wires, etc. Two questions? Will this work in place of the digital and the second question is. Are you going to send me all 19 steps at one time so that I can peruse them for the most convenient to do.

I will shop for the digital if necessary.
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Sunday, August 2nd, 2009 AT 9:41 AM
Tiny
PEPENIK99
  • MEMBER
IIrecently purchased a digital meter as you suggestedand am awaiting your response.
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Thursday, August 6th, 2009 AT 6:12 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Sorry I just got back from vacation thats why it took a bit to get back to you. Now that you have a digital meter we can do some tests. Now first make sure you have a brake light if the brake lights don't work neither will the cruise. Now if that works then you need to find the speed servo near the battery and unplug the 4 pin connector now connect you meter between pin 3 and ground and set on the 20 volt scale and turn key on engine off and press the cruise on button what is the voltage? Here is pic of the connector get back to me with what you find as this determines what direction we go from there.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_115.jpg

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Friday, August 7th, 2009 AT 10:57 AM
Tiny
PEPENIK99
  • MEMBER
O.K. The brake lights work, the back up lights do not, the ABS indicator light is also on.I hooked the meter to the black and pin 3. The indicator light on the steering wheel came on but not on the dashboard. My meter has different numbers than what you indicated but I set it on
ACV 200 and got a reading of 9.9 then I set it on 20m and got a reading of 1.01.I am not sure of what the m stands for but I did it anyway.
At first, I was confused about the servo since there were two boxes as you described they are somewhat different.I metered the one closest to the battery since it was also hooked to the one at a lower level.I think the first one also controlled the wipers.
The female ports on the servo are not as your drawing showed they are pin like and very delicate.
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Saturday, August 8th, 2009 AT 2:03 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok first you need to redo the test and set you meter on the DC Volt scale set on 20 volt or 12 volt if you have that setting. Now as for the abs light when did it come on? How long has it been on? Get back to me on that with abs light on the cruise will not be allowed to work.
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Monday, August 10th, 2009 AT 11:45 AM
Tiny
PEPENIK99
  • MEMBER
I set the meter on 20 DC. I ran the test on a couple of different pins and believe that what you must be looking for is the reading minus -11.84.I did some other pins to see if I got that reading and they were different. One test that I did was on the dark blue/red(pin 3?) And the ground and got a 0.00 reading.
The abs light has been on longer than the cruise control has been off.
Those pins are hard to identify because the wires are not the same color as your drawing.
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Monday, August 10th, 2009 AT 2:13 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok the wire colors should be the same. Now is this a regular voyager or grand and what is the production date on the door? I will double check the test and make sure nothing changes. Now lets do a switch test. You will need to pull the cruise switches off and then do the following test. You will do an ohms test so set you meter on ohms and then on the on/off switch check to continuity there should be none then press the on/off switch and it should read 0 to.5 ohm. If this checkes out then I need you to do check for diagnostic codes from you car. Now to do this is very simply you don't even need a code reader. You simply turn the key on then off, on, off then on within 5 seconds now leaving the key on on the last turn you engine light should go out then start to flash. It will flash then pause then flash again then before going to the next number it will pause longer then flash and pause and flash again. For example a code 55 and code 34 will be as such. It will flash 5 times pause then flash 5 times then it pause longer and then flash 3 times pause and then 4 times. It will do this till it starts over then turn the key off. Let me know what codes you find and I will see if any relate to you problems.
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Tuesday, August 11th, 2009 AT 10:50 AM
Tiny
PEPENIK99
  • MEMBER
I need to know how to pull the cruise switches to test them.
This Plymouth Van is not an SE or a grand it is just a regular voyager, the production date is 7/96 from inside the door. The title lists it as body type SW, Model VOF, model description as voyager FWD-AWD.
I have seen the code tests done before so I fooled with it just to see what I could get. The engine light that comes on says "service engine soon". It flashes at 1, then 1-2, then 1 then 1234, then eventually 5. But when it goes out no codes come up.

A reminder that the ABS light is still on.

I will do the crise switch test as soon as I hear from you.

My name is "NIck" if you want to use that to identify my posts.
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Tuesday, August 11th, 2009 AT 6:16 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok lets check the first test again ok. Unplug it again and and put the red or + from you meter in term number 3 and the black or - to a good ground. Now turn the key on engine off and then push the on/off switch and tell me what the voltage is. It should read 10 or more volts +10 or more. Let me know what you find as this will answer if the switches on the wheel is working. If this is ok then turn the key off. Now I need you to set you meter on ohms and check the ohms between term number 4 and ground. Hook the red wire or + to the term 4 and the black or - to ground, let me know what ohms you find. If this is ok then we will do a pin test on the pcm and then test the speed sensor.
As for the codes you found they do not have much meaning as the car was not running and none of them have anything to do with the cruise.
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Wednesday, August 12th, 2009 AT 11:14 AM
Tiny
PEPENIK99
  • MEMBER
I repeated the first test and got 2 readings. With the key off +11.84;with the key on +11.77 ;with this test you wanted to know if the switches on the wheel are working.
Your second request was to check the ohms between terminal 4 and ground.I will need more detailed instructions on this as it appears that my terminal 4 and ground are the same wire at the connector.
Nick
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Wednesday, August 12th, 2009 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Sorry I ment term number 3. So you set you meter on ohms and 200 or 2000 setting is fine and then connect the red wire from your meter to term 4 and the black wire from you meter to ground and make sure that you have more then 5 ohms if it is less then you need to check the wire for any possible breaks in it. If this checks out then plug the connector back in and go to the brake light switch at the brake pedal in the car. Now you will unplug it and check term 3 it should be a yellow wire with a red stripe. You will check voltage here so what you will do it hook up your meter and then turn key on engine off and push the on/off button and you should get battery voltage there 10 or more volts. Let me know what you find here as this determins where we go from here. I am sorry it is taking a bit to figure this out but it is a little slower doing it over the net, so just be patient as I am here till it works.
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Thursday, August 13th, 2009 AT 11:09 AM
Tiny
PEPENIK99
  • MEMBER
In answer to your request to check the brake light switch. I could not get it unplugged so I got the contract from the back of the connector and got a reading of +12.22 but I needed to have the key on to get that reading. However the wire patterns to get the reading was diffferent from yours. About the time element; don't wory about that I have plenty of time and appreciate learning some of the tips you are sending.
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Friday, August 14th, 2009 AT 10:21 AM
Tiny
RACEFAN966
  • EXPERT
Ok it looks like you may have a bad vehicle speed sensor (VSS). Now you will need to unplug the VSS you may have a 2 or a 3 wire connector either way you will check ohms between the VSS and the transmission control module (TCM). So you will hook you meter between term 1 on the VSS and term 13 on the TCM. If resistance is less the 5 ohms then replaced the VSS. The VSS is located on the transmission on the passanger back side of it. The TCM is located under the hood near the windshield washer reservior. Again I have included pics the first is of the two possible VSS connectors and the other is of the TCM connector.
VSS terms.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic_120.jpg



TCM Terms.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/249564_Graphic1_26.jpg

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Friday, August 14th, 2009 AT 10:46 AM

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