Two separate problems. Since you see where it's leaking brake fluid, fix that first. You'll need to bleed the line or wheel that is being serviced. If you do that with a helper pushing the brake pedal, do not push the brake pedal more than half way to the floor. Doing so will cause the seals in the master cylinder to ride in the lower half of their bores where debris and corrosion build up. That will tear the seals causing you more work and expense.
If a line is rusted through, replace the entire line from fitting to fitting if most of it is rusty. If you can find two nice clean, solid sections, you can cut the rusty part out, install fittings, make double flares, and install a small replacement section of line. Do not ever use compression fittings on steel brake line. Tie up any new steel lines to the old one with nylon tie straps or some other attaching points to prevent vibration. A vibrating steel line will become work-hardened over time and crack.
As for your brake lights, do the three center bulbs work in the liftgate? If they do, the brake light switch is working. The problem could be in the turn signal switch. If no brake lights work, try the four-way hazard flashers. If they work on the rear, that proves the bulbs, sockets, and wiring are ok. The signal lights will do the same test. If the bulbs work with the signals, suspect a defective brake light switch.
Saturday, December 12th, 2009 AT 11:55 AM