Oldsmobile, 96 Sierra Cutlass stalls out- GIRL LOST!

Tiny
THEWES2
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 OLDSMOBILE
It's a 1996 sierra cutlass olds, 95000 miles. It started stalling out at light. We replaced the MAP sensor. It was fine for a few months. Then it started stalling again. Tested the battery and it was bad. We replaced it. It has been fine for a week or two. Now it is hesitating, almost stalling out whilke driving. It is fine while idling now. It just cuts out sometimes while driving, and almost all the time while in reverse. The charge light sometimes flickers and sometimes stays on. I am at a loss. I have no access to testing tools, or tools at all. I'm a 22 year old girl with only enough car knowledge to change my oil, and maybe my tire. PLEASE HELP!
1. Make and Model of your car- OLDSMOBILE SIERRA CUTLASS 1996 3.1 LITER V6
2. Current odometer reading (approx)- 95000
3. Stick Shift or Automatic Transmission- AUTOMATIC
4. Strange sounds or smells (if any)- NONE
5. Fluid leaks (if any)-COOLANT LEAK
6. Past repair history (if applicable)-FUEL PUMP, FILTER, TIRES, MAP SENSOR, BATTERY ALL REPLACED.
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Thursday, October 25th, 2007 AT 7:37 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
Hey Nickie22yroldtoolessgirl,

The charge light is certainly the biggest concern to me at this point. Connections from and top the battery must be clean and tight. The alternater should be checked.

What's the deal with the coolant leak? How much, how long, any overheat?

Any Check engine light?

Thats cierra BTW.
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Thursday, October 25th, 2007 AT 7:55 PM
Tiny
THEWES2
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The collant problem is very minor so far. No overheating, and minimal leaking so far.

I took the car to a shop and now they are charging 309 to replace the catalytic converter, sorry for the butchering of the spelling. They tested everything and said that was the only issue, a clogged catalytic converter. Do you think this sounds reasonable?
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Sunday, October 28th, 2007 AT 9:03 AM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
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Sounds pretty cheap on the converter, hope it isn't a universal one. The proposed solution sounds like it may be right.

To verify it they should dis connect the exhaust in front of the converter, wire it up to stay in place and then drive it to see if it solved it first.
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Sunday, October 28th, 2007 AT 10:25 AM
Tiny
THEWES2
  • MEMBER
The converter fixed the problem, except it was still stalling out in reverse. They messed around with some wires, not taking the harness out or anything. It seems to have fixed the problem for the moment. They want me to bring it back so they can take the wiring harness out and poke around.
The collant leak is a water pump they said, should be about 160 to fix. They said this might be the problem because the antifreeze is leaking out and going down some belt and saturating the something crank sensor. It has literally stumped them. THey have even vounteered to not charge labor or diagnostic fees if I bring it back for them to figure out. They really want to know what is going on. All sensors are reading right, as well as all of the things they hooked it up and checked. We are really at a loss as to what the problem was!
I'll keep you updated, or if you have any stabs in the dark let me know. Thank you so much for the advice.
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Sunday, October 28th, 2007 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
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Sounds like a good shop.

If the power steering line gets disconnected from the alternater bracket, it can rub through a harness that goes to the computer.

Mechanics are always stumped until the problem is solved, then it is one to a new stumped situation. Its just the nature of the business. Cars can make guys look bad sometimes, but sounds like they are on the right track.
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Sunday, October 28th, 2007 AT 6:20 PM

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