Oil pressure issue

Tiny
DIVIDES
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 VOLKSWAGEN CC
  • 4 CYL
  • TURBO
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 99,000 MILES
Start the car and few minutes later you want to take off and the red oil pressure light comes on. I know this is common on these cars, since the battery was bad and I put another I still have no codes, no overheating, no leaks, no abnormal engine noises and I can drive it with no issues. Where is the oil pressure switch on these and what would be a good range for the pressure? Also if it is maybe that the oil pump is clogged up how do I go about removing it to check it out? Thanks
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Sunday, April 11th, 2021 AT 3:42 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

The oil pressure switch is near the oil filter. If you look below, you'll see a pics attached. I highlighted the switch and where it mounts. (Pic 1)

The idea that there are no noises from the engine is a somewhat good indicator that there is oil pressure. However, it should be checked.

To check the oil pressure, you will need to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge. Most parts stores will lend one to you.

If you look below at the attachments starting with the second pic, I included the directions and oil pressure specifications from the manufacturer.

If you want to access the oil pump itself, you will need to remove the oil pan from the bottom of the engine. There is a screen that can get plugged on the pick-up tube end. So, check that.

Starting with pic 5 below, are the directions and pics for oil pump replacement.

I hope this helps. Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,

Joe

PS: I would first replace the oil pressure switch to see if it fixes the issue. If it doesn't, then follow the procedures I provided. I say this simply because the engine is running properly and there are no odd noises from it.

See pics below.
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Monday, April 12th, 2021 AT 7:19 PM
Tiny
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Pressure switched looks new someone must have replaced. It has no oil on it, even when I open the oil filler cap hardly any oil comes out spitting, strange, oil pressure 1.5 bars.
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Tuesday, April 13th, 2021 AT 3:23 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
If you have 1.5 bar, that equals nearly 22 psi which is good at an idle. If the light is still on, Did you try the test using the LED to see if it lights up?

Joe
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Tuesday, April 13th, 2021 AT 6:37 PM
Tiny
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I don't have an LED tool tester.
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Tuesday, April 13th, 2021 AT 6:58 PM
Tiny
DIVIDES
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Is 't the wire to the sensor supposed to have power or ground? It has neither.
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Wednesday, April 14th, 2021 AT 1:12 PM
Tiny
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Looking through the oil fill hole the lifters and engine are so clean I very doubt there is any clogged up pick up screen. I really doubt it.
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Wednesday, April 14th, 2021 AT 1:14 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

With the engine running, there should be a low voltage reading to the switch. I believe it is 5v. The sensor itself is grounded by the engine.

Let me know.
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Wednesday, April 14th, 2021 AT 7:08 PM
Tiny
DIVIDES
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I connected the positive terminal of a multimeter to the one wire harness of the oil pressure switch and the ground wire to the sensor itself, harness is disconnected of course, car is running, I got battery voltage. What happens if I just ground the harness to ground and keep it disconnected? This is my son's car and I know pressure is good, also compression was great. I just don't want to see this light anymore.
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Saturday, April 17th, 2021 AT 10:34 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

It honestly sounds like a bad oil pressure switch. Based on the pressure, the sensor changes the resistance of power recognized by the computer. It sounds like that isn't happening.

As far as jumping the power supply, that's your call. I can't say to do it. I hope you understand. I would replace the switch and see if it makes a difference.

Let me know if you decide to do it and the outcome. I'm interested in knowing.

Take care,

Joe
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Saturday, April 17th, 2021 AT 6:31 PM
Tiny
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I replaced the switch same thing. If I test the harness wire it gives battery volts when ignition is on, I thought I saw videos showing 5v? I connected the harness to ground the red light didnt come on, drove it a bit and the "service engine:check engine" message pops up in middle of cluster for a second and goes away along with the traction light, not the check engine light, weird every minute or so it does that, car hesitates at slow speed. Need to mention that the battery is also weak and I have to jump it every time but when it starts I can drive it with no issues, once I leave it parked few hours I have to jump it again.
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Saturday, April 17th, 2021 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Interesting. I have to be honest. A weak battery can cause all kinds of electrical issues when it comes to sensors. Is the battery good and just needs charged, or do you think it's bad and the alternator is keeping things working?

Let me know.
Joe
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Saturday, April 17th, 2021 AT 10:11 PM
Tiny
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Alternator is just keeping things rolling. I did tickle charge it but it only would start if I ran the car for a while and shut it off and I wanted to restart it immediately, it would start then.
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Sunday, April 18th, 2021 AT 6:24 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
It may not be a bad idea to replace the battery to see if it changes anything.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-car-battery

Let me know.

Joe
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Sunday, April 18th, 2021 AT 6:29 PM
Tiny
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Changed the battery, camshaft position sensor, VVT solenoid, and the camshaft adjuster magnet. Now the difference is day and night, all are common failure and inexpensive so I took a chance. All good now. Thanks for your help.
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Wednesday, April 21st, 2021 AT 7:59 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

You are very welcome, and thanks for the update. I'm glad to hear it took care of the issues. Just out of curiosity, did you replace everything at once or one thing at a time? If one at a time, was there one thing that seemed to make the biggest difference?

If you could, let me know. I know it will help others in the future.

Take care and please feel free to come back anytime in the future,

Joe
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 6:48 PM
Tiny
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Battery if course made a big difference, there was a slight hesitation that went away, and then the dash lights went off after replacing the adjuster magnet. I believe it was stuck and wasn't moving.
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Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 7:10 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Thank you for the update. Vehicles today are so dependant on voltage. Anytime there is an electrical issue, that is the first thing I check. It seems any variation causes problems.

Take care and please fee free to come back in the future.

Joe
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+1
Thursday, April 22nd, 2021 AT 7:22 PM

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