Oil pan plug stripped

Tiny
CORY SHANE
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 HONDA CRV
  • 2.5L
  • 4 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
Took my vehicle to Valvoline for its normal oil change and they stripped my old pan plug and refused to cover fixing it. Without changing out the oil pan what is the easiest fix?
Sunday, December 20th, 2020 AT 6:03 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good morning,

The pan is the best way to fix it but they also make oversize plugs but they produce metal filings which can damage the engine.

As far as the shop, they most likely feel the previous tech is who caused the damage, not them. In most cases, they are correct.

I would definitely consider replacing the pan. I attached the procedure for you below.

Roy

Engine Oil Pan Removal

1. If the engine is already out of the vehicle, go to step 21.

2. Raise the vehicle on the lift.

3. Drain the engine oil. See: Engine Oil > Removal and Replacement

4. Remove the front wheels.

5. Remove the splash shield. See: Engine > Removal and Replacement > Engine Removal

6. Disconnect the air fuel ratio (A/F) sensor connector and secondary heated oxygen sensor (secondary HO2S) connector, then remove the three way catalytic converter (TWC). See: Engine > Removal and Replacement > Engine Removal

7. Remove the shift cable. See: Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Removal and Replacement > Automatic Transmission Removal

8. Separate the stabilizer links from the stabilizer bar. See: Stabilizer Link > Removal and Replacement > Front Stabilizer Link Removal/Installation

9. Separate the knuckles from the lower arms. See: Ball Joint > Removal and Replacement > Ball Joint Removal

10. Remove the propeller shaft.

11. Remove a bolt securing the P/S fluid line bracket, and unclamp the P/S fluid line clamps on the front subframe. See: Engine > Removal and Replacement > Engine Removal

12. Remove the bolts securing the left steering gearbox mounting bracket. See: Engine > Removal and Replacement > Engine Removal

13. Remove the bolts securing the right steering gearbox mounting brackets. See: Engine > Removal and Replacement > Engine Removal

14. Remove the bolt securing the automatic transmission fluid (ATF) filter.

15. Remove the lower torque rod. See: Engine > Removal and Replacement > Engine Removal

16. Make the appropriate reference lines at both ends of the subframe that line up with the body. See: Engine > Removal and Replacement > Engine Removal

17. Remove the subframe mounting bolts on both side. See: Engine > Removal and Replacement > Engine Removal

18. Attach the subframe adapter to the subframe and hang the belt of the subframe adapter over the front of the subframe, then secure the belt with its stop. See: Engine > Removal and Replacement > Engine Removal

19. Raise the jack and line up the slots in the arms with the bolt holes on the corner of the jack base, then attach them with bolts securely. See: Engine > Removal and Replacement Engine Removal

20. Remove the subframe. See: Engine > Removal and Replacement > Engine Removal

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21. Remove the lower torque rod bracket.

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22. Remove the torque converter cover.

23. Remove the bolts securing the oil pan.

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24. Using a flat blade screwdriver, separate the oil pan from the block in the places shown.

25. Remove the oil pan.

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Sunday, December 20th, 2020 AT 6:21 AM
Tiny
CORY SHANE
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Valvoline is who has serviced my vehicle for the last 90,000 miles we have always taken it to them for an oil change. Why do it yourself when someone else can for $10.00 more, right, lol. Is there a recommended procedure for attempting to use an oversized plug? Anyway to cut down the chance of getting metal bits into the pan?
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Sunday, December 20th, 2020 AT 6:25 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
One way to be sure is to install the replacement plug then change the oil immediately again to let it drain out of the pan so it does not circulate into the engine.

Roy
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Sunday, December 20th, 2020 AT 6:29 AM

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