Blows OBD fuse after a few cycles?

Ken, thank you -- yes -- 7.5 in fuse under the dash. You and I both know that wires (especially hot wires) begin and finalize somewhere. The DAC is on the left side under the afore mentioned fuse panel -- I'm assuming (because I do not have a schematic) that the other DAC wires go to various places including the ECM which is on the right side behind the glove box. Replacing the 7.5 amp fuse allows a code reader to power up, check for DCT's and eliminate the check engine light for several start stop cycles but eventually pops the fuse again. Something is causing it -- a color coded schematic would sure help.
Thanks again.

Thanks Ken -- much better schematic than Haynes -- Yes, I have a Foxwell scanner that works on other cars and a wireless OBD2 Car pro -- no where can I find wire schematic (there is vacuum line schematics) to the much confused vent valve (under hood) and vent solenoid (charcoal canister) behind drivers tire. Both have two wires going to them.
Also, your site will only allow one picture up loaded -- I wanted to follow the red/blk
wire on picture one but again, only one hot wire to the DLC I guess I can run a jumper and by-pass any harness problems. The car runs and idles fine -- it seems slightly better when the CEL lite is out -- not really limp mode but noticeable. I've only pot 3000 miles of the 213,000 on it -- fuel injectors couldn't hurt but the have their own power and relay -- coils should show a miss fire but they get replaced at my first tune up. I've owned Toyota's
since the early 70's and many Corolla's, Matrix and this my fourth Vibe --- tis a mystery.
Yes, I will share if and when I figure this out.

Ken sure will if I fix it -- here is the second picture but it does not show the origin of the red-black wire before the fuse. It's going to be more parts cannon I guess -- I'll change a few relays because they're cheap -- the car is 24 years old -- could have moisture I'm not familiar with but everything seems to work.