No Spark to the spark plugs?

No spark from all the coils can be caused by a bad ground, bad power or no signal from the ECU. Refer to the attached for the powers and grounds. To test for power you can use a test light. Connect it to battery negative, then turn the key on and probe the Brown wire, if there is power then connect the light to battery positive and test the White wire with black to see if there is a ground. If you have both the power and ground then the next thing would be to test the ECU for it's powers and grounds to see if it failed in some way.

Okay, take the light and test the 15 amp injector fuse in the left side dash fuse box. Key on it should have power to both sides. If it does go to the noise filter at the top rear of the engine and unplug it, do you have voltage at that plug? If yes, check at a couple injectors. If not and the fuse was good you have a break in the brown wire.

Please respond

The noise filter is a capacitor that absorbs the electrical noise created as the coils fire. They can short internally and normally cause the fuse to blow. The nice thing about this vehicle is that is the entire power system for the coils and injectors and it should have power with the key on. Do you have any type of aftermarket alarm or kill switch installed? If not and key on you have no power there but the fuse is OK you could try running a bypass wire for testing. Just use a wire with a 15 amp inline fuse and connect it between the battery positive and the brown wire and see if it now starts. If so then the wiring has an issue. They don't really tell you where the wires run, just that they are in the harness. Attached is an example of the engine harness.

It runs to the injector fuse in the dash fuse box. There are a couple connectors in the line as well and it feeds power to a couple items, but the power to the coils is a single circuit that is fed from the fuse without going through anything else.

You would need to open the harness and trace the wire. However a faster way to verify it as being the problem is simple, take a chunk of wire, add a 15 amp inline fuse and connect it to one of the coil brown wire at the connection near the coils, preferably by taping the wire inside the connector, or you can just open the insulation and connect to it. Try to start it, got spark and it runs, you know that wire is bad. If that is the case run a bypass wire from the fuse box down to the coils and just bypass any broken wire.

OK, if that happened there must be a short in the system. That is the only way it would start to melt. I would also suspect that the coil is probably bad, smoke is not a good sign. That would stop the power if it shorted and melted the wiring in the harness. Unplug all the coils, now take a test light and connect it to battery positive, now with the coils unplugged touch the brown wire in any of the coil connectors. The light shouldn't light up. If it does you have a shorted wire in the harness. Then you disconnect the fuse in the box, does the short go away? If not then you are going to need to strip the harness open and examine it as the hot wire likely bridged to others. It might actually be easier to find a front harness and replace it if there is a short like that.

Which wire? If you mean for testing you just use a fused wire directly to the battery positive. If you are running an overlay wire then you need to test at each connector going back to the fuse box to eliminate the shorted section.

You can, but you need to find the area that is shorted or you risk damaging other items that could be shorted to the wire in the harness.

Go to the first of the two connections in the harness and disconnect it. Test to see if the wire is shorted, If you no longer have the short on the then attach the bypass there. The idea is to not feed power into the section that is bad.