Transmission not shifting right?

Tiny
SCHAERY
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 157 MILES
My 1998 Nissan Maxima (automatic trans.) Suddenly sounds like it's starting off in 2nd, or more likely, 3rd gear. Never shifts up or down. Just got it up to 4000rpms and never shifted up or down. My mechanic doesn't work on transmissions, and there are only 2 trans shops in town. Would like to have some idea of what I'm talking about before I have to take it in. (I've spent lots of money on it lately. I'm afraid someone will tell me I need a new transmission when it may be something more simple and less expensive).
Saturday, February 26th, 2011 AT 5:02 AM

46 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
The transmission is licked in "Limp Mode" and most probably there would be trouble codes stored in the TCU. It could be sensor , wiring or control unit faults.

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/automatic-transmission-problems

Please run down this guide and report back.

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Wednesday, May 25th, 2011 AT 4:26 PM
Tiny
JEFF BRABAM 98
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1996 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 199 MILES
I have a 1996 Nissan maxima. When I shift from parking to drive it does not shift after I accelerate. I manually shift to drive all the way to drive1 but it just stays in drive one and does not shift. It is full of oil. I have Check it hot. I let the car warm up before I go. This happen all of a sudden when I had to brake hard to avoid a speed bump on the road. The car seemed to hesitate but the transmission failed to change from there on. Also the speedometer stopped working about a week ago. Don't know if that is related to the transmission problem. Thank you very much.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Yes, the failed speedometer can cause the transmission to fail to shift. Get that resolved first.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Also check the VSS and TPS sensors-This two gives the computer an input signals indicating the throttle and governor pressures-
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GOLFNUT56
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 1996 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 145,000 MILES
I have owned 6 maximas, 4 of the 6 would not down shift in 1st gear on quick or sudden stop and go situations, and the gas pedal would be very firm unless you stomped on it to go, then it would jump to about 5500rpm and take off like a rocket. Also 5of the 6 have a rattle on passenger side door or. Any insight would be appreciated
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPRO JACK
  • MECHANIC
  • 11,533 POSTS
If it has a throttle valve cable to the trans, and the throttle is hard to push, then it may have a sticky valve in the trans or cable that is fraying internally. The rattle is something that will be easier to find if you have someone ride with you that can crawl around in the car a little and see if they can locate the noise
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
  • 1995 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
1995 Nissan Maxima mileage: 125,000. About 20,000 miles ago I had #1 fuel injector replaced on my car. This August they replaced #2. I recently took my car in because my transmission is not shifting right and was told that my #1 fuel injector is bad again. They cannot find out about my transmission until the #1 fuel injector is replaced again! Another $350.00. What can be causing this and do I have any recourse. I have always made sure to put good gas in my car and had all the service it needed. Except they also told me, it is due for its 60,000 Service, which will be another $350.00. I can't afford all of this.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CP-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 4,540 POSTS
20,000 miles is a little soon for a new injector to go bad. What comes to mind is the possibility the fuel filter is letting sediment pass by which ends up plugging the fuel injectors. The #1 injector may be the first one on the loop. If the engine is not running properly, it would be difficult to diagnose transmission problems. The 60,000-mile service probably includes replacing the timing belt. Sorry we wish we could help you more.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:40 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SLPERRY
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1994 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 16,300 MILES
I want to buy a used 1994 Nissan Maxima with 163,000 miles on it for my daughter. The car is in great shape, engine runs like a top but the transmission does not shift out of 2nd? Or go over 30-35 mph. Could this be a minor problem? Please help.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,202 POSTS
It is hard to say. It can be as easy as replacing the speed senor on top of the transmission, medium as to replacing the solenoids or valve body inside the pan, or a major overhaul if the third an/or overdrive is malfunctioning.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NUY351
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
  • 1992 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 20,800 MILES
I power washed the engine and transmission of my 92 maxima SOHC engine type VG30E. I usually clean my engine/transmission twice a year. After this washing the transmission immediately began shifting very erratically, "i.E." Upshifting and downshifting spontaneously as well as slipping out of gear. Have I water contaminated a shift computer or shift govenor? Will blowing all electrical weather connectors out with high pressure air be of any benefit? I've not experienced this before although this transmission was pulled and re-installed twice within the past 18 months. The car is virtually undriveagble at this point. Appreciate any thoughts.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,262 POSTS
That's where I would start.

Is the check engine light coming on?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NUY351
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
The check engine light never came on. I wish it had as I have my own OBD1 and 2 hand helds. Would make my life easier. I blew out all the weather connectors last evening but havent had a chance to road test the vehicle yet. I contacted the Nissan Dealer and learned a replacement Shift Control Computer will run $750 and change. Difficult for me to believe it's anything other than a short secondary to water contamination. None of my repair manuals (cheap ones) have a wiring schematic for this Shift Controler circuit. Will likely have to go to the public library to copy one. I am curious if there is a specific shift control relay under the hood that may have gone south, are you aware of a relay in this circuit?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,262 POSTS
You can run a self-diagnostic test.

Phase 1
Run engine to normal temperature.
Turn ignition switch to OFF.
Set transmission mode switch to AUTO, overdrive switch to ON and selector lever to P.
Turn ignition switch to ON, but do not start engine.
POWER indicator light should come on for 2 seconds.

Phase 2
Turn ignition switch to OFF.
Move selector lever to D, over drive switch to OFF.
Turn ignition switch to ON, but do not start engine.
Move selector to "2" position, set overdrive switch to ON, move selector to "1", set overdrive switch to OFF.
Press accelerator to the floor and release.
Record POWER light flashes.

Come back with the codes and I'll look them up on the chart.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NUY351
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Understood, will do.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NUY351
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Tried to run transmission diagnostic algorythm about half a dozen times--never could get the dash power light to flash any codes.

I'm still focused on figuring out this shift control circuit. I'm still thinking I've contaminated something with water when I washed the engine and I'm overlooking some connection or relay. I wouldnt rule out the shift control computer as being bad or the main onboard computer as being bad for that matter. I dont mind replacing computers at all as I've got good after factory vendors with more reasonable prices but I hate to replace a unit not knowing if that is the system fault.
I'll keep cogitating the issue and let you know if I find anything more. I'll review this web sites letter archives to see if I can spot a like problem and remedy.
Will be in touch. Thank you for your help.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MENISKUS
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1992 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
Car will not shift into 3rd or od. The speedometer was not working so I replaced veh. Speed sensor from junk yard. Speedo is now working but still does not shift to 3rd gear. Someone told me that revolution sensor can cause not to shift properly. The rpm needle does work though. I have not replaced revolution sensor yet. I also replaced the throttle position sensor. I also got a used a/t control unit but that did not change anything. I took car in for diagnostic test at a non-nissan place. He said he could not get a reading, that computer was not communicating with the car. Please help me!
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi meniskus,

Thank you for the donation.

Possible causes of trans not upshifting to 3rd and OD.

1. Mis aligned/adjusted Inhibitor switch or control linkiage. Check if the indicator light in dash is working first.

2. No revolution or speed sensor signal. You already replaced the speed sensor and it is working now, but did you clear the DTC? Some tims when an error is recorde. You need to clear the DTC.

3. Damaged control valves.

4. Shift solenoid A or B.

5. Faulty high clutch or brake band.

You need to do a, line pressure test and that would allow you to know if it is pressure or clutch problem.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BUDDYCRAIGG
  • MECHANIC
  • 2,262 POSTS
Mmmm.
I didn't look to see if no codes at all was an option.
I assumed there would be at least an "all ok" code of some sort.

Did the power light come on in the first step?

I'll check tonight and post again if I have any information for you.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)
Tiny
NUY351
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thanks for your response. If you mean the "Check Engine Light" when referring to the "Power Light" as the test protocol does the check engine light is illuminated whenever I have the ignition switch in the ON position. It naturally came on each time I ran the test protocol when I switched to ignition switch to the ON position as directed. It never gave me a make or break code flashing pattern during any of the test algorythms like I'm used to seeing with the older pre 90's computers.
SOOOoooo.I'm still stumped as to being able to pull up a fault diagnostic code.
I also noticed I mispoke yesterday when I stated I had both an OBD I and OBD II handheld. I do not have an OBD I tester. Used to use the old paper clip maneuver for reading those codes.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 5:41 PM (Merged)

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