1986 Nissan 300ZX Transmission Mount

Tiny
LOBO55
  • MEMBER
  • 1986 NISSAN 300ZX
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 144,000 MILES
I need to change the transmission mount on my 1986 300 ZX. Lots od stuff in the way. How much do I need to remove?
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Friday, January 30th, 2009 AT 9:53 PM

6 Replies

Tiny
JNOVACK
  • EXPERT
Using a block of wood (between the jack and the oil pan) and a floor jack, support the engine under the oil pan.
Place a transmission jack under the transmission and support it; DO NOT place the jack under the drain plug.
Remove the nut attaching the transmission to the rear crossmember. Remove the crossmember-to-frame bolts and the crossmember.
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Saturday, January 31st, 2009 AT 10:18 AM
Tiny
LOBO55
  • MEMBER
I really hate to sound as though I am being indiignant, however a quote right out of the repair manual, that I already have, is not for what I was looking. I really did not need you to tell me what I already know. Don't feel badly, I had the same experience with a legal question and after three pages of dialogue I finally got the answer for which I was searching.

1. Do I need to remove the exhaust system?

2. If so, how much of it?

3. The bolt to which you refer is above the member and hidden. How low must I drop the trans to access it?

4. Do I need to remove the heat shield?

5. The exhaust hanger is obviously connected to the mount yet you make no mention of that.

6. There are harmonic absorbtion arms protruding from the cross-memmber. Will they come off with the cross member or do I need to remove them separately?

Please elaborate on all of the above, without plagiarizing the Hanes manual, and you will have accomplished something. Please pay attention to what I asked. The issue is the what is in the way of the mount. Anybody can remove the mount itself. If this eloquence is beyond the capability of anyone out there, I will kindly take my $5.00 back and use it for coffee at the local Nissan specialist and have a tech elaboate on his experience rather than hear from someone whom has obviously never done this job before and faked it with the manual.

I know enough to know what I do not know so I am asking with humility for soemone whom has actually removed one of these before.

Thank you.
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Saturday, January 31st, 2009 AT 12:56 PM
Tiny
LOBO55
  • MEMBER
Now that I have figured this out on my own. I'll write what I expected to see. Once the motor is supported, ideally buy the front of the trans as opposed to the oil pan since the trans will not be removed. Remove the catalytic converter. Remove the heat shlield. Cat requires 14 mm wrenches and sockets. Remove the heat shield 11 mm bolts six of them. Once the heat shield has been removed you can access the exhaust suspension bolts attached to the trans mount. You now have a clear shot at everything. It may be necessary to loosen the front exhaust header pipe where it attaches to the exhaust manifold or you cannot silde the cross member assmebly out. Remove the through bolts that connect the outer cross member housing to the harmonic dampenerr assembly and then remove the cross member bolts from the frame. Then and then only can you get a wrench on the single nut that holds the inner assmebly to the trans mount. Once that is removed the two remaining nuts that hold the mount to the trans can be removed. Assembly is the reverse of removal.

If you have any integrity at all you will refund my donation as you did not earn it. The next time someone asks you this question, you will have the answer as it should be and you can earn the $5.00 to which I should be entitled. My gift to you and the next person takes on this task.

Thank you.
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Saturday, January 31st, 2009 AT 3:19 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS MIKE
  • ADMIN
We will be glad to refund your donation, we are sorry we could not help you.
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Saturday, January 31st, 2009 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
LOBO55
  • MEMBER
Thank you for refunding the $5.00. I would glady have paid it for useable advice.

Just to ad to the dialogue. I was able to remove the mount assemby and cross member bceause it was broken. Whei I installed the new mount, whis bolts can be accessed through the dampener assembly, I could not fit the cross member between the exhaust pipe and trans mount. Rather than creating a new set of problems by loosening the header pipe, some gentle downward pressure with a pry bar between the trans and exhaust pipe made enough room to tap the member in with a block of wood and a light hammer. Car is back together and running fine. Please save this for the next person inquiring.

Thank you.
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Saturday, January 31st, 2009 AT 10:51 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS MIKE
  • ADMIN
We appreciate your input and hope we can help you in the future.
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Monday, February 2nd, 2009 AT 5:54 PM

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